I threw 2 crank rods 1GRFE @ 185k

Being an 06 that's been ridden hard, how does the frame look at the motor mount tabs? Would be a good time to gusset/plate that area when the motor comes out.

 

Was just looking at that. The coil buckets are showing signs of deformation, once I get the motor out and steam clean some more, I'll be able to inspect for cracks etc. The motor mount area is one of the problems I found out about after purchasing. The truck was essentially wrecked in a front corner impact where the air bags didn't deploy, taken to the dealer and then subbed out for repair to a frame shop to be fixed. Never reported to insurance, so it didn't show up on Carfax, but since it was done through the dealer, which I thought should show on the carfax, it only showed up on the Toyota owners database when I entered the VIN on their site. Which I found after buying. That along with a slew of other red flags through it's life prior to me owning. I bought a POS and nothing I can do about it now.

 

SMH sounds like me. If only I had not had this addiction to Tacos in SWB. I'm in more that I'd like to admit. If something like this happened I'd be done.

So final analysis....low coolant led to head gasket leak led to rod being thrown? Oil and ECU tune didn't really play a part right?

 

This whole time I've been hearing what I thought was a timing chain tick, but it was a silent knock. Leading up to catastrophic failure it didn't sound like any rod knock I've heard before. Just a tick. That's why I originally thought it was a timing chain issue.

 

Seems so early for a timing chain issue. From what I've read thats good for nearly 400k miles. Was it running hot? Or think the thermostat was bad?

 

Coming from a 22r background, I've heard timing chains tick all the time. They're definitely different in tone from a rod knock which I've experienced before but not on the 1gr. This definitely snuck up on me.

 

Not my trailer.... Not my powerstroke. Both belong to work.

At least it's a good Ford and not that new shit that leaves owners high and dry after 30k. Tried and true 7.3' with bragging rights. The crew cab and the below xcab 350's both have 350k plus on them and run like a dream. Typical 1ton though the bushings and ball joints are worn out to where the steering wheel floats 1/4 turn either direction. Still chugs along with a load.
Not the first time a Ford's towed my Toyota. My powersteering pump took a shit on a trail. Removed the serpentine belt and limped it to a spot where I could be towed to the pavement and trailered home. My boss is pretty fly for a white guy. Currently taking up space in his shop for this debacle.

 

Yeah I figured that. I’ve already been quoted 3.5ish for a reman and another 2.8 in labor. The Mitchell program estimated 27 hours for the 2.7 but then again, 27 hours seems like overkill.

 

On the plus side- that block would make a nice base for a table. Bust out the Tig welder and some square tubing...and...Time to get some “live edge” wood n’ some resin!

 

This is a quote for a reman installed out the door after tax from a shop a block away from me. $10k!!! They have an outstanding reputation and are good, but when my truck is worth slightly north of what they quoted, I'll do it myself. I'd gladly pay someone else to do this project for me, but crunching the numbers and I'm not shy, I'm in it to win it. I've got a background in heavy diesel, and have been wrenching on my own vehicles, mostly Toyota trucks, and replacing clutches, head gaskets, gear swaps etc... since I was 16, I've touched just about every moving part of vehicles I've owned besides the engine. Never dealt with an efi/modern engine swap tho. I have just about every tool at my disposal and a warm shop to do it in, and at this point I'm up to the family jewels in water with no life jacket. My boss always said if you can't find what you need around here, you don't know what you're doing. I guess I'm on the right track.

 

Fakkkk- I feel your pain!!! The more I think about it, the more apt im willing to rebuild it myself as well. All considering farming out certain tasks for machine shops and a potential for a car rental- the money save can be used for something else.... cough cough.... supercharger

 

Much respect for the Seven-Three!

 

Is part of why I dumped my '06. Couldn't stop thinking about those motor mounts every wheeling trip. My frame was quite rusty too which didn't help. Other reason was a very loud engine knock when cold, it would quiet down once fully warmed up. Could never track it down but it started at 110k and was worse when I sold it at 160k. Thinking it was a cracked flex plate or piston slap. I still see it around town, all I know is I took extra good care of it and it really didn't pay off. I expected 300k before any real issues.

 

I was worried about the frame but couldn't find any serious defects. The dealer gave it a pass when I brought it in for the recall. It's been a PNW truck it's whole life. The frame still looks in good shape just minor surface rust.

Sounds like the last 4 yrs of me owning this truck. Did I buy it from you?

Seriously. This is what was going through my head when I bought it. "Toyotas track record etc" "I can't go wrong". Well I was wrong and being the third owner left a lot to be unkown before me.

The truck was sold in 9/2005 as a 2006. According to the info provided on Toyota owners database, the truck has 45k on it in just over a year with no report of oil changes. Then the frame was fixed under the table at ~52k and the elocker actuator and rear diff assembly was changed at 60k. This truck literally has had every mechanical part replaced before 100k. Bottom line I bought a polished turd.

 

Get an '08-'11 for the easiest swap. '12 -'15, and just have to swap over headers and valve covers.

Easy easy swap. Can do it in about 4 hours myself.

 

7.3 FTW!

 

Yep, I've got it ready to pull, just questioning where to attach the hoist? I plan on removing the engine and transmission together. Something about lifting 800# of engine and trans via chincy lift points on the head scare me. With that much lift on cast aluminum I have my doubts. Any suggestions @Torspd? Can I torch out a lift plate that uses all the studs on the exhaust ports? I've got a few ideas but don't want to drop it all on my fender or core support if I need to use some muscle on the extraction.

I'd like to keep it simple PNP with my DTLT's. So as much as a low mileage 2015 is attractive, I wouldn't be much better off since I'd need to buy new manifolds/headers. Trying to stick with what I have on hand so 2011 seems to be the route I'm trending.

 

Mine was a late '05 build too, bought from a family friend, serviced regularily and well taken care of. Even at 160k the body and interior were spotless. Frame was solid, just a lot of surface rust. It had nearly every single early 2nd gen issue along the way.

 

Two 3/8 bolts will pull a 350 and transmission out....... Harbor fright is your best friend right now/

 

The hole on each head. Use a rag under each strap, if you choose.