Is this all I need to make these woofers BUMP?

$72 BOSS Audio Systems AR1500M Car Amplifier - 1500 Watts Max Power, 2 4 Ohm Stable, Class AB, Monoblock, Mosfet Power Supply, Remote Subwoofer Control

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-A...&qid=1542871946&sr=1-4&keywords=car+amplifier

$23 BOSS Audio Systems KIT2 8 Gauge Complete Car Amplifier Installation Wiring Kit with Power Cables, Ground Cables, Turn-On Wire, Speaker Wire, Terminals

https://www.amazon.com/BOSS-Audio-A..._rd_t=40701&psc=1&refRID=2R2SJWRSXK9WSXFPF28P

The cabinets are 250w each

Are the big speakers subs or mids? I don't need anything over the top or competition grade, I'm just looking for a noticeable increase in bass. Eventually, I'll upgrade both pairs of (Infiniti?) mids (front and back) in my truck, so I want to get an amp that will support everything.

 

Well its only a one channel setup so you won't get stereo. Power is plenty though. Are the subs 250w RMS or max?

 

This will probably do you better if they are 250w RMS each. Run on 2 OHMs will give you the best sound.
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_109699_SoundStorm-FR1000.2.html
I'm just an amateur so let an expert chime in.

 

Also SonicElectronix BF sales are usually pretty awesome, so check that out. I've got a Hifonics Brutus 1200W kicking around somewhere in a box. Ran two 12" Pioneers in the old beater grand am I had before the Taco.

 

If you believe the supplier, this amp makes over a kilowatt. Cabs say max music power 200W. So maybe 100W per cab RMS. Again if you believe the ratings, you're still 5x over rated power. Even with so much overkill, sadly these will never BUMP. These are not subwoofers. If you want subs, this is a poor road to travel.

You're probably fine though power wise - I doubt that amp makes anywhere near a kilowatt...what's that - a single 30A fuse? The math is WAY off. At perfect efficiency, which is impossible, that amp can make just over 400W (calculated using Ohms law). More likely it's an inefficient Class A/B design making around 250W - just before it pops its single fuse. That's to say it's overrated by about 6x. So power-wise it's a good match. Now you just need an actual subwoofer.

 

Not sure, how will I tell?

 

Put everything on hold for a moment

These are not subwoofers.
These are full-range speaker cabinets. The old school truck boxes. Woofer on the front, tweeter (usually horn loaded) on top.

I can’t find much info for these (the 8” version) but I’ve found the specs for the 10” version, and they are listed as 100w RMS. So I would guess these are 80w RMS.
They are also absurdly sensitive. This means if you were to actually give them both 80w each, you will definitely damage your hearing (and I promise, I love my volume and my ears are already toast at only 26 years old, thanks to my career)

I would get a small 2 channel amp that can run about 50w RMS x 2 (actual stereo outputs, not just two rca inputs and one output like the boss amp you linked)

As @rob feature stated, that boss amp ain’t putting out anywhere near the claimed power. Physically impossible. My rule of thumb to find realistic power is

(Class D amps) Fuse x 10 = RMS
(Class A/B amps) Fuse x 8 = RMS

these are old cheap speaker boxes so I wouldn’t worry about throwing an expensive amp on them. But please DONT skimp on the power wire. Boss wire is super cheap under-sized CCA (copper clad aluminum) wire.
Opt for a true-size 100% OFC (oxygen-free copper) kit.
KnuKockeptz copper kits havebeen good for the money.

Again as stated above, they won’t “bump” because they aren’t designed for that. They’ll get loud. Very loud, but they’re 8” drivers with low power handling. Don’t expect much bass.

Cool speakers though. Things like this were all the rage back in the day. These are how Kicker got started!

 

It's printed right on the cabinet. 'max music power 200W'. So RMS power handling is probably around 100W.

+1 what Destin says above - these are probably pretty sensitive so they're gonna get loud on 100W. They're gonna avoid the sub frequencies for the most part, but you won't be able to ignore them.

 

So are the big speakers subs or mids? I don't need anything over the top or competition grade, I'm just looking for a noticeable increase in bass. Eventually, I'll upgrade both pairs of (Infiniti?) mids (front and back) in my truck, so I want to get an amp that will support everything.

 

Ultimately, they’re made to be mids. They will play bass frequencies, but not very loud.

If you want bass, ditch these and buy a subwoofer.

If you want an amp that powers everything, make sure it’s a 5 channel. Pioneer has a good cheap option and I believe NVX makes one comparable as well. They battle back and forth in price in the $200 range. These will power all door speakers and a good subwoofer.

 

75 watt rms, not even 100
Only hit to 45hz, not a sub in there anywhere
Midbass at best


https://www.cnet.com/products/pioneer-ts-trx800-speaker/specs/

 

Yeah, those are midbasses. You see this type of setup quite a lot in pro audio - high efficiency midbass and HLCD (horn loaded compression driver) 2-way. When implemented well in a vehicle, this sort of setup with a subwoofer is hard to beat. Period. But by that I mean custom enclosures in the kicks and horns nearby as well as generous helpings of DSP. A sub in these setups is generally necessary as the midwoofers don't usually play too far below 80 Hz. High efficiency midbass drivers don't typically travel far enough to handle low frequency duty and that's what you have there - high efficiency midbass drivers. You need something that will travel further and move the air required for low frequency reproduction - a sub.

 

So if my cabinets are midbass, I'm thinking it would be a better option to just get high quality mids that pump mid bass for the doors, and a sub for the back?

 

How can I tell what speakers are which class?

 

Can I get a 5 channel amp and run both sub and mids? Or you're saying to get two amps?

 

Ur right a 5ch would work
Disregard prior post, I wasn't thinking up to date. I haven't had a car system for quite a long time and used to run a class ab for my mains and a class d for my subs.

 

I actually just ripped out a flowmaster and threw in a huge magna. I'm tired of noise in the truck. Also my lab has a full back seat in the access cab, so no room or need for sub for me.
I'm sure his ears appreciate the sound deadened cab and magnaflow . I'll stick to making the house creak and doors rattle watching movies. Doesn't draw attention like a rattling vehicle.

 

What do you mean sound-deadened cab?

 

I sound deadened a decent amount of the cab. Keeps most of any remaining exhaust note out of the cab. I'm sure if my ears enjoy it, his must too.

 

What product have you bought to sound-deaden your cab?