Ole Red - 1999 Toyota Tacoma Xtra Cab 2.7L 3RZ-FE 4x4 SR5 All Manual Build

You just described my truck

 

Trying to get to the bottom of recent issues with the motor:

Rough cold start
Check engine light
when warm, runs fine
get code on check engine light
misfire cylinder #1
send to shop for oil change and diagnose misfire on startup/ cold
shop - swapped wires, plugs, injectors, coils around - still cold misfire on cylinder #1
shop - simple dry and wet compression test (40 lbs??!! dry, goes up a little on wet)
potential issues valves, piston rings, or leaking head gasket
wet test makes pressure go up = rings?
going to check valve clearances next = potentially too tight

Any thoughts or experience is helpful.

 

Testing my hypothesis of low compression and misfire due to valve clearances over the weekend. BINGO! Found it! Cylinder #1 has no clearance between the cam and valve shim which means the valve is not seated inside the chamber. valve not seated = not able to hold compression. No compression = misfire. See attachment.

All of the exhaust valve clearances are well below spec and will need to have new shims to get the clearance back to where they are supposed to be. The only remaining concern is whether or not I burned the exhaust valves while driving without clearance. Once I change the shims, I will need to get a leakdown test to tell me if there is still leakage or not.

1st Moral of the Story - CHECK YOUR VALVE CLEARANCES EVERY FEW YEARS OR 15-30K MILES (Especially as the motor gets older and higher mileage)

 

2nd Moral of the Story - Be sure to change your coolant as required in the maintenance schedule manual and run the best fuel you can.

See the link below for an article about valve and valve seat wear. There is a chart that shows potential causation of wear and a few of those can apply now.

http://eprints.whiterose.ac.uk/778/1/lewisr3_Trib_&_Lube_Tech_2003_Valve_Recession.pdf

1) Thermal softening due to excessive temperature - effectively, keeping the engine cooler (or as cool as it is supposed to be) can help prevent excessive wear of the valve and valve seats. If coolant is not cooling like it is supposed to (because it is old or bad water pump) then the metals will wear away more quickly and cause proper seating issues, which leads to a host of a lot of other potential issues.

2) Proper clearances - use the spec in the manual but it seems like the lower end of the spec might be more desirable as the exhaust will have "more time" to escape. Personally, I plan to shoot for 0.011 or 0.012 for the exhaust clearance which puts me in the middle-lower end of the spec.

3) Deposits and varnishes can impact proper cooling and/ or proper seating - keeping clean/ good quality fuels can help reduce excessive varnish and deposits. I would assume running some cleaner (seafoam, marvels, amsoil, etc) would help keep these cleaner to help some.

 

Top Tier Fuel Brands

https://www.toptiergas.com/licensedbrands/

 

@clickws

How’s that LCE exhaust setup still treating you? My Pacesetter of nearly the same vintage hasn’t cracked or broken any welds but I’ve had to replace the gasket from the header to the short pipe leading to the cat. So I’m looking at possibly getting the LCE long tube just to make my life a little easier.

 

Obviously a portion of my decision to get new LCE exhaust was out of necessity but the look and sound have been a nice plus. I can’t say that there was any extreme notice of performance increase but I can say that I enjoy the sound and clean look and function.

There has been some weathering with surficial rust but no real corrosion. I need to just hit it with some silver high heat exhaust paint from one of the major car part stores and it will look just fine again.

I have not had any leaks from when I first put it together, thankfully. The only issue I have is since I put the OME Dakar Leaf Packs on, I have had to readjust the bracket in the back so the exhaust tail doesn’t tap against the back of the leafs underneath . I may end up re-routing the end of the exhaust at some point but I have it it fixed in a good spot for now.

 

Thanks to @Winkle99 for the pinch weld and inner fender plastic mods. See Here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/winkle99-build-thread.511998/

I regret being too hasty in beating on my pinch welds, fenders, and cutting plastic to get the 32x11.50 on and limit rubbing. Unfortunately, I cut out a bunch of plastic and need to figure out what I can replace it with till I can find the OEM replacement plastics to try again. Doing the 1.5" wheel spacers has put the tires too far out and turning at certain angles while stuffing, makes it feel like I'm ripping the fenders off.

I need to figure out proper back spacing to try to get these 32" tires to work without rubbing. I have an old set of OEM steel wheels I am going to put on next. I'll miss the black steel wheels but I can't keep em if they are causing issues.

 

How much would it take to limit rubbing? Parts house 1/4” spacers? I run 1/2” in the front and 1/4” in the back but have swapped the front studs out for studs from the rear of a Corolla. Other wise there isn’t enough stud to put a nut on. This would just keep you off the frame and put more into the footwell though.

 

Yea. I am just going to try some original stock tacoma steel wheels. It should work out but I shall see.

 

Well, had a P0402 code come up on CEL last week. If anyone has had this, let me know.

 

How'd your clearance with the new wheels? Are the tires the same 32x11.5?

Nevermind, I saw your post in the 98-00 thread.

 

No prob. I appreciate you checking back in on it.

I am Definitely more happy with it not rubbing! There are parts of me that wants to toy with some 235/85 R16. But for the low price I got these 32x11.50 on CL, it’s really hard to beat for now.

 

The black trim piece that runs along the side of your taco, do you know if it is glued on, or screwed on? Would it be easy to remove?

 

Sorry for the slow response. It looks glued on. I plan to leave it. It may make for a good "break line" if I decide to bed liner along the bottom.

 

More Recent News:

1) 3-4 Months ago Water drip on driver floor mat, not sure if its a backed up Air intake for circulating outside air or if its a bad seal on the windshield?? I am leaning toward windshield seal, as I am not sure they replaced it with OEM gasketing

2) Changed Oil at 221943 miles - used Toyota 90915-20003 Filter; Took oil sample and sent to Blackstone (copper was high); oil had not been changed in a year. Had to add 1 qt during this cycle. Steadily leaking around oil pan gasket. Plan to do a short cycle on this next run to see if these metals clear up. I have been neglecting to drive the truck regularly and I think several cold starts and short trips might be contributing along with the long sit, oil draining.

3) Changed belts at 222K miles - used Toyota 900809112583 Pwr Steering Belt, 9091602336 Alt Belt, 993642087078 AC Belt; also changed out some adjustment pulleys on the PS belt (

$20 Dorman 419-627 Accessory Drive Belt Idler Pulley Compatible with Select Geo / Toyota Models

Dorman 419-627) and AC belt (

$26 Gates 38031 DriveAlign Belt Drive Idler/Tensioner Pulley

Gates 38031). Got rid of a squeak in the AC pulley.

4) While changing the belts, noticed a crack in the plastic on top of radiator. Bought new radiator and waterpump, planing to dig into all that at once. I have a new thermostat sitting around. Picked up new upper and lower radiator hoses. Also have toyota red coolant in stock to refill after this cooling system work.

Pictures and such to follow.

 

Any idea on the water inside entry point? Mine also leaks bad. Bad enough that water will pool up when you press on the carpet. Used to be just the driver's side, now it's both sides. Smells like a raped goat after a few days in the sun and no windows down.

My oil pan also leaks bad. I even went as far as to drop the oil pan and apply new liquid gasket and it still leaks. I have a proper aftermarket gasket for the next time I get motivated enough to drop it again.

 

What was it like dropping the oil pan? I hear its a royal pain to get to with 4wd in the way.

 

It wasn't fun but was doable. I have a 3rz if that made it any easier. There's a certain way it'll come off and go on. Tilted over and maneuvered around everything inside and out. All the while trying not to disturb the liquid gasket but quick enough it doesn't set yet.