Tacoma gas door replacement/fuel door repair due to rust

Sloemoe - Dupli-Color aerosol base and clear coat would have been cheaper (about $20 for both) but I don't regret going with PPG Deltron aerosol. It's a perfect match and the PPG base laid down perfectly. I was really impressed with it. The PPG clear coat gave me a little trouble but I think I was applying to light. My last coat of clear I went a bit heavier, "wetter" and that seemed to do the trick.

 

Cool, thanks for the heads up on the clear. May be awhile before i do this but will post my results when i do.

 

Mine’s scraping when opened and the hinge has enough resistance that when I close it the door pops back open to the position in the second picture. Not sure what’s causing it to scrape?





EDIT:

Found this video on youtube and took the same approach of using the hammer claw to pry the hinge outwards. We had a big storm this weekend that knocked down a branch on this side of my truck. I don't see damage to the door but it must have just perfectly hit it.

I still have the loud binding sound from the hinge that I've been having for a few months, though. Gonna have to replace eventually.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0L-whO9CNK4

 

That’s exactly what mine is doing. Catching on something and scraping the paint. It opens and closes with a bit of resistance but it’s eventually going to need to be replaced. I’ve tried to bend the hinge so that t won’t scrape but that usually only lasts a week or so before it settles right back where it was.

 

This is a disgusting problem that i now deal with also. I was a little more than displeased when i found out the gate came in black plastic and would need painted. I am guessing a newly painted gas gate next to my 2008 paint will stamd out like a turd in a punch bowl.

 

I'm getting ready to do this as well, but have also lost the plastic nub that the door latches on. Does anyone have the part number for this nub? Circled in red for reference:

 

It looks like the "nub" or "knob" is actually part of the "Pipe Shield" - part number: 77290-04040






Anyone know if there is a separate part number for the nub?

 

My 2012 Tacoma SR5 4x4 just broke today at the bottom. Wonderful. 32 degrees out and a late spring early summer project since my garage isn't heated. But, glad I found this thread! Very helpful indeed. I did order a new lid (7730504905) so I'll be ready when the time is right. In the meantime I drilled two small 1/16" holes and wired the bottom where the hinge broke. Now I won't worry loosing it.

 

I did that job back on Jan 24 this year (2018). My '10 PreRunner came with a broken hinge, so I bought a new door on-line (Olathe Toyota as I recall), and had a local shop paint it. The attachments aren't bolts and nuts, they're rivets, and damn tough ones at that!

You need to salvage the little clip and screw, and the cap lanyard off the old gas door. Here's a pic of the completed job.

Charlie

 

Charlie: That looks fantastic! What type of rivets did you use, and did you do this yourself? I'm not all that familiar with riveting. Having a body shop paint the lid is something I'm considering also.

 

Thanks.

They're stock 4 mm rivets from Toyota. They're tough suckers, and the guys at the paint shop offered to use their air riveter to install them, so I let them do it.

 

I'm glad I found this. I just started having this same issue, though I haven't had any damage to the truck, that I know of. Mine is starting to scratch the paint pretty bad. I'm hoping some WD40 will help the door/hinge work properly. It seems it's binding and not articulating as it should. Maybe I'll try the hammer claw approach as well. It definitely annoying as you have to force the door open and it pops and rubs on the truck.

 

I used stainless button head allen bolts and nonstainless nylock nuts. You can access the nuts through the bed cubby hole above the wheelwell.

 

I replaced my fuel door and primed, painted and clear coated it myself. Automotive paint isn't cheap. I'm pretty pleased with the results but my fuel door is a bit darker than the surrounding area. That might be the result of the conditions (humidity) when I painted it. The clear coat came out like glass and I'm really pleased with that.

 

Plastic? The new fuel door I got was steel....

 

The one I bought from Toyota is steel as well.

Charlie

 

Thanks guys!! I might have to consider doing this fix.

 

PM Sent

 

Yesterday I took my new fuel door to a body shop for an estimate. They will prime, paint (match as best as possible since truck is 7 years old), rivet and install new lid for $104. I told them to do it. The new lid assembly was $33.97 shipped, and it was red! Lol. So I'll have $138 total in this project. Saves me time and will have done next month instead of waiting until spring due to winter is here.