How much are you paying for your 2018 Tacoma?

I wouldn’t pay more than 36.5 otd. Be firm, they’ll give in

Edit: emailing usually doesn’t work. Dealers don’t want to openly advertise their lowest prices via email.

 

Wait, @ecl is it a 4x4?

 

If you are happy get it. It’s a good deal, if you don’t think you can work them down anymore then pick up the truck and enjoy it.

 

Yes 2019 TRD OR DCSB 4x4 automatic

 

Sticker on my SR5 was roughly 31k, and they said they don’t discount them at all more than $100. I got suckered into the maintenance package, and since the 1.9% loan interest rate was so good I didn’t end up putting much down (5k). After it was all said and done my loan balance was almost identical to the sticker price - 60 months @ $606.

I honestly couldn’t see any reason to get a TRD trim upgrade of any kind since I want to eventually replace most of the stuff that even has. The only bummer is the key start / no keyless entry - but that’s also something I can probably mod. Just seemed like I’d be replacing the 6-8k difference with mods any how.

 

Okay good, was going to tell you to run away as fast as possible if it wasn’t lol.

When I purchased my 2018 they were quoting me similar and I started at 36 and went up to 36.5 otd. I’d say try for that. Or take the deal and be happy if you are okay with spending the extra and just want to own the truck.

 

SR5 to TRD is a 3k difference and not 6-8k.

 

Yea, sorry - I meant the overall TRD trim line. I guess there’s Sport and Pro on top of that? The stickers I was seeing seemed a bit closer to 6k difference (36-37k vs the 31k SR5)

 

I bought a Sport out of state cheaper than I could buy a local SR5 (with no pushbutton start, no scoop, no led drl's, no navigation and with wheels, grille and seats I did not like). It all comes down to the dealer you buy from. Out of state would negotiate and locals would only knock a whopping $300 off the sticker. My Sport was only $2000 more msrp than a local SR5. Certainly not several thousand when I bought a new 2016. I paid $32.6k out the door with tags, 4% taxes and $600 in dealer fees. I completely negotiated my deal by email, down to the penny, with a credit report and buyer order, including 45% down and Toyota 2% financing for 42 months. My sticker was around $32k at the time. For me it was a great deal.

 

Rice in Greensboro:
I would call and ask for Andy Slaughter

Modern Toyota in Winston Salem:
Allison Beeding
(336) 785-8427

Both of these dealers worked hard for the deal.

I would avoid Mark Jacobson in Durham, they offered a great price, but lied to me about the blue book value of my trade and would not come up to a reasonable trade.

I used Truecar and Costco to find dealers willing to deal.

 

This is a quote that I got for..

2018 TRDOR DCSB 4x4 AT
BBP
Tech Package
Dealer add on or two, not sure exactly what

I suspect it has been on the lot for a while, as it has ~330 miles on it. It seems like a pretty decent deal at just about 14.5% off MSRP.

Should the Toyota rebate factor into the discount or should I be able to get 15% before the $1000 rebate?

Also have a trade in which I have not brought into the mix yet. Any advice? 2017 Subaru WRX with 18k miles.

 

What is this $499 doc fee and $167 in untaxed fees? Ask them what these are and for them to be removed if they are not for registration or plates. You may be able to get them down a little more. I would just mention the mileage and say it’s really stopping you from getting it at that price. If you can cut 500 in fees and have them drop say 500 that’d be a great deal and I’d pull the trigger if that’s the color you like. @epack236

 

When I was looking for my new 2016 I was given access to the allotment schedule for the southeast region. Every truck on that list had the dealer fee on it. I found one dealer within 200 miles in NC that was only $199. That was the cheapest one on that list. Unfortunately that dealer could not get my truck. Ended up paying a $599 fee at a MD dealer. Every dealer I have dealt with in the past 5 years has that fee. They will not discuss removing it. You just have to negotiate a good price to offset it.

 

Yeah, unfortunately where I am (MA), that is a normal fee that in my experience is non negotiable. I don't know what the $167 fee is. I'll see if I can use the mileage as leverage.

 

That’s not bad at all. They’re trying to get rid of the 2018s. Might be able to go lower

 

Everything is negotiable and it’s BS when they say they can’t remove it. They are charging for filling out paperwork that you could do yourself. Now registration fees are non negotiable, but everything else is fair game. Even if you buy it for the quote you showed it’s a great deal, I was just letting you know that almost 700 in fees were adding onto it. So that means they are making that on the backend plus the 1000 incentive.

 

You might think that. I have been buying and selling cars over 40 years. Worked at dealerships. Had my own used business. You can get the new car dealers, at least in a 500 mile radius of me, to get rid of most bs fees, holdback money, etc but they will not budge on that dealer fee. Even if you do your own dmv work. Might as well let them do it because you are paying that fee anyway. Every one of them will let you walk away over that fee. Just helped my kid get a new Ford. Got a great bottom line $5600 off msrp. They refused to drop the fee. Non-negotiable.

 

I didn’t pay the dealer fee on my 2018, but I also leased and paid the acquisition fee, which was non negotiable.

 

So, I decided that I want a 2018 Tacoma TRD Sport 2x4 (not 4x4), automatic, short bed, with Nav. I have an idea of what the truck should cost from research online, but it's all the "other" fees that usually confuse me as far as what is and isn't necessary. My biggest concern was that I not have to come out of pocket for the deal. I have a financed car that I wanted to make sure they would pay off. I owed right about what it was worth, so I was fine with them just paying it off. I have a second car that I wanted to also trade in and they offered my what I thought I'd get if I sold it on my own. So here is where it all ended and why I can't really tell if this is a good deal.

I'm in N. Florida. The Truck I wanted was about 36k as far as sticker price is concerned. They gave me 30k for my two cars that I'm trading in. 23k is payoff for one, and 7k for the other. So basically, 1 is a wash and the other is a 7k down payment. The loan I walk out with is for 29k. So, am I looking at this the right way? The truck was 36k out the door, and my 7k trade leaves me with a 29k loan. The truck I want keeps having an MSRP of about 35,500 whenever I build it. If we factor in tax, tag, fees, etc, is this decent or am I leaving money on the table here?

 

First of all never ever ever ever pay “sticker” MSRP for a vehicle. On an 18 you should be able to get at minimum 10% off MSRP, and in your case I would think even more since it’s a 4x2. See below for invoice pricing and how much they would be making if you paid MSRP.