Dual Battery set up, Offgrid-engineering, Adventure Ready or ???

Great product here at Genesis Off-road. Planning on getting their dual battery system this summer.

 

Would it not have been better to follow your own advice and send him a PM telling him those things instead of putting it on this thread? Lesson not learned I guess.

 

Which one of us are you talking to? Not trying to be forward. I’m just trying to make sure I don’t leave anyone’s questions unanswered.

 

you and it was a rhetorical question, response not necessary

 

That’s hardly rhetorical. You are also attempting to be a keyboard warrior and it’s totally unnecessary.

This is nothing but a public bashing of a business and person that neither one of you know anything about.

Now once again, can we lay this to rest?

 

@HeliMedic I see your site has a side-by-side for the 2015 Tacoma. Will it fit the 2016+ or is the split-system the only option?

 

The side by side will absolutely fit a 2016. We’ve installed dozens. It does require a bit more clearance from the oil filler neck though. You’ll need to test fit before you mount. Feel free to call or email me with any questions.

 

Has the oil filler neck been an issue? I saw in other threads that while the engine under load will move and may rub.

 

This was an issue that I was made aware of yesterday. And It is only an issue with the 3rd Gen Tacoma. I have updated the website to reflect that this system was made specifically for the 2nd Gen Tacoma.

With that being said, we’ve installed dozens of them on 3rd Gen Tacos without issue. The only difference is making sure to give yourself adequate clearance from the filler neck prior to mounting the tray. That engine apparently moves more than any of us thought it did!

 

I installed the Genesis dual battery kit and will report back in a few weeks with my thoughts.

It was an easy install. The how to video was $$$!

 

Ok. This is a great thread. So which kit leaves room for the ARB compressor on the passenger side and still clears the oil filler?

OP, did you ever pick a type of battery? I’ve used Optimas before but I’ve heard they’re not nearly as great in cars as they are in boats. Any thoughts here?

 

Hey, thanks for reviving this I agreee it’s a pretty great thread. To be completely honest I have NOT done anything yet. I was almost sold on a Genesis system but to be 100% honest I think a much better solution than dual batteries is a stand alone lithium ion in the back... here’s my reasoning.

The dual systems I mentioned are

$550 , $775, or $850.... add two “good batteries” @$250-$400 each and at a minimum you’re spending $1050, at a max $1650 (these are just estimates). You’re also ADDING 65-100 lbs of weight easily to your truck and in some cases over just one fender on the already heavy side of your truck...

Enter the new generation of stand alone lithium batteries. The new battery from Dometic is $750 and weighs 14lbs... can be charged by your truck as you drive as well as solar, the Cadillac is the Inergy Kodiak (18lbs if I recall) which you can score for $1350 if you know where to look. Both these have at least as much capacity if not MORE because they can be drained down much farther, have much longer life and weigh much much much less. They also have the added benifit of being removed and used in your home or another vehicle whenever you want (I’m thinking vacation in my wife’s vehicle and still running my fridge!!)

I did not mention Goal Zero because as of now they can not accept a direct charge from your vehicle so to me they aren’t even worth considering. The two I mentioned accept solar and the Inergy even has AC power and a 1500/3000 watt inverter if you’d like to run A/C electronics.

Basically to me it boils down to 50 year old technology vs the new. Remember how annoying the older dewalt tools were before they got the new light lithium batteries. They are soooooo much better. Long story short I have not picked a battery yet but when I do it will be one of the modern lithium choices with more power and much less weight, better versatility and an equal or even lower price. Final note these are completely stand alone so no chance of killing your system with some kind of mishap.

Just my .02 but it seems to be the wave of the future. As a note I saw the prototype Dometic at Expo East and it’s awesome. They ran a 75qt fridge 3 days straight and had 57% battery left (these actually drain to 0)

 

Thanks for the thoughtful response. I literally just removed the bookmark for the dual battery since LED lights. I’ll research the donetics since they have awesome fridges. My last Toyota sucked on power due to a sound system but a good capacitor should mitigate that. Otherwise the alternator upgrade might be the best solution if I’m pulling harder than the truck can produce. Do you have a link to their battery or is it just being shown off at trade shows for now?

 

If you need more capacity on your truck itself I’d recommend a group 31 in place of the stock battery. @ragofabrication just started producing one that looks slick. Pelfreybilt was making one before they went under and stole everyone’s money....

https://www.mainlineoverland.com/pr...495793457&mc_cid=71319f3948&mc_eid=40bef55402

Im not associated with Mainline but I’m not sure if anyone else is offering a pre-sale so here is the link and some info on Dometic’s battery.


I guess battery choices could be different. If you’re needing to run a massive stereo you’d need things wired to the truck. I was thinking fridges and camp lighting.... either way lot of good choices out there...

 

This is exactly what I came here for. Thank you. You’ve clearly done your research since the first post. Solid information about overlanding but also ruling out the need for the second battery. Realistically the only big power draw is RMS of speakers (stock speakers are made of paper...). The lights I have coming won’t draw much at all. The air locker and winch will be fine with the truck running.

Constant camping and fridge requirements will be covered by what you’re suggesting here. That about covers the vision that I have.

Long story short, the amount of vendors that make nice stuff for this truck are at odds with my needs assessment for personal use. It’s a nice problem to have hah.

 

Agreed. I have a 30” Rigid “driving” bar and 2 Rigid Dually Side shooters all on stock battery and as of now my 63qt fridge too. No problems. I will be adding a lithium before spring though for sure. To eliminate worry over the fridge. Good luck!!

 

Changed my setup to an SDHQ dual battery kit. I wanted to move my second battery to the top left of the engine bay and this kit did it. I was getting some arching on my hood with the Genesis and was too close for comfort to the oil fill. I'm happy with my change.

 

Arching on your hood! Holy Crap... I hope you contacted the company about that!!!! It is nice to balance out the weight. I can’t blame you there...

 

Interesting....

Noted for future.

 

Good points, just wanted to mention:

1) I run my Goal Zero 400 Lithium (LiIo) from the AC plug in the bed of the truck. The Goal Zero has a separate 120VAC to 12V converter, so no need to run off 12 V line. It is true that it does not accept a 12V source other than through the included solar panel input connection. It outputs 120V. Just not high loads like microwaves. Weight is 16 pounds. Cost $550. Input max 70 W.

2) Looks like the main advantage of the Dometic PLB40 portable is the battery chemistry (LiFePo) and compact footprint. Linear output till discharge. Projected retail over $700. Will accept 12V source. Input max unspecified as of now.

3) Inergy Kodiak is still LiIon ? $1500 for 1100Wh and a little heavier at 20 lbs and accepts all inputs. But you can run a microwave. Input max 600W.

I have a Dometic CFX-50 fridge running off the 120V of my Goal Zero. Reason why I do that is the fridge has an automatic shutoff if the DC voltage falls below a certain level. I verified with Dometic that battery shutoff can not be disabled. I can walk away from my truck for a day with the fridge on AC output of the battery. Not so much with it on the DC output.

My main problem with the Goal Zero is that the charge controller limits input to 70W. Goal Zero says it is to protect the batteries from overcharge/heat. The fridge requires ~ 55 W when running. So when I charge while driving the battery has a hard time recharging fully. Especially in the summer when the fridge runs longer and the battery is more discharged. That is a PITA since my travel style is run and gun. I rarely stay more than two nights in one camp and frequently boondock. So I am constantly having to find a 120V source in the hot summer months to charge the battery overnight. Couple of hours in a coffee shop doesn't do it.

The Dometic PLB40 looks intriguing. But if it's input charge is limited like my Goal Zero, then it's a no go for practical reasons.

The Inergy Kodiak seems like a really viable option. Doesn't have the linear discharge of the newer batteries, but you have nearly three times energy storage for twice the price of the Dometic PLB40 and can run microwave/instant pots/hair dryers (for that fashion forward look on the road). Just a few pounds and few inches footprint more. If LiIo is too fuddy duddy, one can replace them with super sexy LiFePo packs found on ebay.

Just passing on my recent experiences.