What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

What kind of plugs are the new ones? I'm currently trying to squeeze out any hp I can with my weighted down 4cyl

 

There's no lip/stopper for the seal if i recall correctly. Just make sure it's flush.

 

Thanks! Got them all out in this afternoon. Fingers crossed they won’t leak on me and I have to take the whole thing out again

 

They're the OEM

$18 Denso K16TR11 Spark Plugs, Pack of 4

Denso K16TR11, dual ground strap, that Toyota calls for. I think they're plain-jane copper electrode. I assume the dual ground strap is meant to prolong life since the 5VZ-FE is a wasted spark engine. Don't know if you actually need dual ground strap for your 4 banger.

 

Some test plumbing for a supercharger bypass valve on/off switch.

Drove around and verified getting a 3 port vacuum switch will make it all worth it. There are certain driving conditions where I want to keep boost off, such as mountain inclines.

Then had to take the front mud flaps off, it's better but I'll still need to cut the plastic trim and do the pinch weld mod...

 

You're a better man than I. I did not want to go through all that work haha

 

Have you checked the vacuum line coming off the bypass valve to make sure it's clear? I forget the name of the part, but I checked mine and found a little metal zerk looking piece had broken free and lodged itself in the line...I think it's the restrictor jet piece. Pulled it out and it ran a lot better after that.

It's pretty common for that to happen I hear, some people glue the jet back in place and some just remove it entirely

 

Did you get rid of the Wildernest?

 

Yeah long time ago. This spring.

Was super super cool. But I'd have just ended destroying it.

 

Peal thecovers off and sell them at least. Were do you live? Since is doesn't say in your info.

 

It's just a restrictor to make it actuate slower, keeps the boost from slamming on and off essentially. You can run either way, better ECU control could handle the full on and off better and our dumb ECUs that have enough on their plate without boost would prefer changes like that to happen slower.

 

I had talked to Magnusun and that restrictor in the line is there to dampen the S/C bypass valve, I suppose otherwise it can be a little too snappy or perky? I've never run without but good to hear you like it without. Reminds me of the IS300 clutch damper valve that is just awesome when you chuck it off the car.

What I'm trying to do is flip a switch in the cabin so that the S/C bypass valve/diaphragm is no longer taking reference from the OEM vacuum/boost nip, and switches that over to the vacuum tank I'm adding. Its just a simple combo of lines (and size adapters), one check valve, vacuum tank and a three port vacuum solenoid (just bought a used one w/ connector on ebay for $10). Already have the rocker switch in the cabin so just about ready to fully commit to this mod. When I'm going up a long mountain pass or romping on fire-roads, there are times I'd rather not have boost.

This is "stage 1". If I ever ramp up my dumbness, I have a bolt-on turbo kit to twin-charge with, and the 3 port switch would get worked into the EMS, or swapped for a PWM solenoid to be worked into a way of gracefully transitioning boost from the S/C to T/C. But thats only if I get a weird combo of energy and stupid at the same time.

 

Trying to figure out my dashpot, got plunger unstuck now trying to figure out what's going on with vacuum. I'm either getting too much or spring in dashpot is worn out and under normal engine load dashpot is retracting too much

 

Yeah mine was lodged sideways in the vacuum line so it Defintely wasn't working as it should...No idea if it had been like that since I got the truck or not but it certainly felt better after pulling it out. I saved it in case I needed to put it back in but I don't think it's necessary

 

I suggested this exact idea of transitioning boost between SC and turbo to @Empty_Lord a little while ago. I'll be interested to hear how it works. I think my time playing with SCs has come to an end for now.

 

I may or may not have some turbos sitting in the garage...

 

I've had this idea ever since the CX kit came out. Mentioned it on customtacos and got semi flamed for it- some legit issues were brought up, for instance the bypass valve only bypasses so much, so there will still be some psi from the SC when reving high, thus making at least a little bit of compound boost, which is not additive/linear (still can't wrap my mind around that). But at the end of the day, its a "because I can" type mod (the "can" part being that both kits are 99% PNP with each other), and the other part is the tinkering fun- figuring out a way via EMS, or just pressure switches, or additional modules etc to high jack the S/C bypass valve so one can avoid compound boosting and make a true'ish twin-charge setup. Would be sick- not really practical, not really any use-cases for it, but would still be sick. Honestly the smart thing is to choose either S/C or T/C, not both haha.

 

The issue is they encourage each other. The SC adds more boost and helps spool the turbo just makes the curve really steep when they work together. I think we mentioned machining the bypass port for a larger flapper and smoothing the transitions. It would definitely cut down a lot. You should only be running a low boost pulley on the SC if it's going to be used in conjunction with a turbo.

 

Google compound boost calculating, its a trip. 4psi S/C + 4psi T/C does not equal 8psi.

For sure, run an underboost pulley if anything. I think TRD made a 5psi pulley for people complaining about ping (before they made the 7th kit), I think an aftermarket company makes a 5psi pulley as well. I never liked high boost at low RPM.

 

Made a mess in my garage.