Wolo Bad Boy Horn Upgrade

So I had this extra horn laying around (couldn't find a place to fit it on my motorcycle), so decided to put it in the Taco.

The following is an FYI, I do not take responsibility for you if you attempt this and are not successful or break your vehicle. I have lots of experience doing things like this, so please do not attempt if you are not comfortable with anything described.

First, I painted the shiny parts black.

While waiting for paint to dry, took off OEM horns. Saved metal straps to mount new horn. Stacked all four together, drilled a larger hole, and was good to go.

Ran new ground wire in thicker gauge from fenderwall near battery to horn. Took the time to add it to the OEM harness, and follows the same path as the positive wire, just comes out before the fuse box with some other grounds, and attaches to fenderwall.





Next, to upgrade the stock wiring in the fuse box to add a larger fuse without smoking the stock wiring. This horn will blow through the standard 10 amp fuse in a few seconds (don't ask how I know). The instructions call for a 20 amp fuse to be added in line, along with a supplied relay (more on that in a minute).

Take out battery. Unplug connectors around fuse box to create more room to work. The only one I'm going to show you is the one for the ABS sensor (don't want to break that one for sure).



You want to push towards the arrow and it will come out. It is spring loaded to keep it attached. The red X will stay while the part with the red arrow slides.



Next we want to take the fuse box out of its shell. First, un-clip the side panel on the side closest to the engine (there are two tabs, one on each side).



It slides out, and you can disconnect the two plugs also.



Remove positive battery lead, and other wire clip.



Next, you want to use a small flat blade screwdriver to work the clips that hold the bottom of the fuse box to the fuse box itself. There are five clips (pictures are with the bottom shell removed so you can see the clips):
Two on the engine side.



One on the windshield side.



Two on the fender side.



I found that if I started with the two near the engine, I could pry the shell off enough to stick a punch in there to keep it from clipping back together. Then I could un-clip the two on the fender side, and hold one corner apart while I un-clipped the 5th one.
Earlier I mentioned that the instructions call for a relay. Conveniently enough, there is a relay box attached to the fuse box which you can un-clip when you flip the fuse box upside down.



The relay even fits in the slots (loosely without spade terminals in there though).



So I was going to add wiring to go from the fuse to the relay in the relay box, but when tracing the wires for the original fuse, found out they go to a relay on the fuse block already. Some internet searching turns up that it is the same specs as the one supplied with my horn anyways. Luckily, this means that we only need to upgrade the wiring from the stock relay to the fuse to be able to add a 20 amp fuse. If you are thinking at this point that I'm crazy, and that the relay or fuse block can't take the extra load, you're wrong. The fuse directly next to the original horn fuse is a 20 amp, and following its larger wire traces it to another relay, with exactly the same part number as the original horn relay. Here is a picture of the wiring we need to upgrade (white with green, the one my fingernail is almost touching).



So, carefully use a small pick to un-clip the spade terminals for the relay (remove the relay from the other side first, fuse too), and gently pull the wire out. Do the same for the wire leading to the fuse. Two arrows shown, plus follow the third to the other end.
This is what you will have in your hand:



From left to right: relay, relay and fuse connections. The two relay spade terminals are two different sizes, so you can't connect them incorrectly.
So next I just carefully took off the wire that was there, and soldered thicker wire on. The crimps from the factory are super strong, and I wasn't able to undo them, but I was able to solder right on top of them, and re-crimp the end part and finish it off with some heat shrink tubing.



So, from here, just clip it back in place, and carefully re-assemble everything. Pop in a 20 amp fuse, and let her rip.



I have tested it for 20 to 30 seconds straight several times; no more blown fuses, and no smoking wires from the fuse box.

Best part is that the horn now has two wires (one + one -) for hookup instead of the standard one, which should make changing horns in the future plug and play (Hella, etc.)

 

Not sure if its my computer, but the pictures dont work

 

x2

im stupid...
i need pics. lol

 

Working on it; thought I had them, they didn't work. I'll try again tomorrow. I don't know why doesn't work...

 

make sure your friends neighbor isn't around

JK, (ps. did anything happen with that?)

 

Im am jealous of your horns

 

5 gallons = long honk

 

subscribed for pics and a sound clip.

 

Updated with working pictures; will try to go grab a sound clip in a minute.

 

I'm Listenin'

 

Attached, long burst, and a couple beeps with the panic on the remote.

 

sounds good

 

I'm Sorry, I'll Haveta Post The Same Reply to the Hella Supertone Tread:
http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/2n...pertones-horns-install-guide.html#post1915301

The Are Loud, They Do Look Good, But Ever Since I Installed 'em (the Hella's) In My Solara, I Keep Lookin' Around For This When I Hit The Horn



Still Too Euro for Me. I Want Truck Horns

 

Is there an easier way to do this (like connecting the stock wires to the Wolo relay and then to the horn? Not as elegant as this install, of course, but I'm lazy.

 

Yeah, you could do that.