TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I was semi interested in that tank for a while, but you're talking a couple hundred lbs of added weight on one side. no bueno for what I do. I think I'm locked in to some sort of fuel cell in the bed someday if I want more than 21 gallons

 

My experience with GM has proven otherwise, as I'm now over the power levels of a stock LS2 at the wheels on a GTO. (330HP)

Unless you are heavily modding an NA build, then you are good for 450 or so HP at the wheels. Still very expensive to mod to get max effort NA power though.

 

I thought about adding a fuel cell. Since I have the swing out rear bumper with tire carrier, there's a decent amount of space where the spare tire used to be. But I'm saving that space for onboard air stuff.

I know you like plowing through sand dunes and kicking up big rooster tails so the difference in weight distribution wouldn't work well in your case.

I'm just commuting to and from work and making an occasional trip half-way across Texas. This tank will increase my range between fill ups from 250 miles to 400.

 

Yeah I think a 32 gallon cell right up against the cab like standard everywhere would work well for me.

 

Add that to that long ass list you posted earlier!

 

Yeah It never fuckin ends.

 

Just when I think I'm to the point I can leave the truck alone for a while, I find more shit that I NEED to do to.

 

Same! I was happy, then suddenly a bolt snaps and its a cascade event lol. Now I'm like fuck, this this this this this this and this need replacing before I can offroad again, and this this this this and this should probably get replaced soon.

 

Nuthin' but barrel rolls.

 

The ratio tek shift kit is beefier springs and larger orifices. IPT valve body is that plus upgraded internals.

 

which sounds like fun, but isn't.

 

Not without a full cage and a helmet.

 

Pretty sure even then its still not fun, especially when you get out and assess the damage lol

 

Coming soon to a truck sitting in my side yard. Well springtime hopefully.

 

The Roush showed up today. Definitely sturdier than stock.

One thing I noticed on the Roush is the seat for the inner race of the pulley bearing is half the height of the stock tensioner. Probably not a big deal if you tighten the pulley bolt properly and maybe add a dab of blue threadlocker, but you'll notice in the 2nd to last pic the seat is only half way up the race.

Also no protruding spring issues on this piece.

 

No need for thread locker on that bolt, as the pulley is what sees any sort of load or even vibration. Just tighten it down really good. And you should be good to go. I don't like how about half of the inner race has no support, but the bolt will support it. I initially had the same issue with my Thump unit, but the double bearing pulley I got from LFP provided the billet space I still had to modify to make it all work and fit nicely within the sleeve housing and bolt hole.

Your call how you want to proceed with it, but myself I'd be much more comfortable running some kind of sleeve to cover the rest of the slack that is no longer covering the inner race.

It otherwise looks like a nice beefy unit. Be aware that there will be reduced clearance between the actual fan plastic material and space to put in some sort of breaker or 1/2 rachet drive. Nothing a prybar can't fix.

 

That or I may hack off a portion of the seat on my broken tensioner and drill out the threads as a spacer.

 

Dremel with a cut off wheel and you'll be good to go! Just cut at the base and you'll be solid. I'm excited for you! That tensioner will never fail.

 

My steeda is getting returned for one of the rousch units. Certain areas on the steeda looked like hairline fractures. I know what casting Mark's are too. Just didnt like the idea. Welding a thick plate introduces a lot of heat to a casting.

 

Yeah as of right now, it appears to be that the Roush units are the most viable option but will inherently require some minor modification to the idler pulley bearing support in order to run reliably on our setups.

The only other options that remain are the very expensive billet versions, Thump, ARS, etc. As the $200 UPR ones are no longer being made, which is sort of a shame.