JFR Equal Length Y-Pipe for 2nd Gen Tacoma, T4R, & FJ Cruisers

$20 a foot on pipe is what we agreed on. The whole exhaust will be ceramic coated... I will have $3000 in my exhaust when its all said and done. Thanks TW!

 

Nice! I have spent soooo much money on my Toyota’s... maybe I shouldn’t drive them.

 

Here is a pic of the Spec-U header at night looking through the fender after running parked at 2500 rpm for 10 to 15 seconds. I looked in and saw it glowing so hopped back in the truck with camera ready so I could duplicate the condition.

 

Yeah I watched a video where they used a laser thermometer to measure how much the ceramic coating changes the temp. Very cool stuff, that pic is badass!

 

You should get your money out of it and wheel it as much as you can...

 

@Murphinator ya sold me. I bit the bullet and ordered the 3" Banks Monster exhaust. Got it on sale. Looking forward to running it with the JFR ypipe and then eventually URD headers. Will probably have all of my current exhaust up for sale by spring

 

Hell yeah! My advice will be to watch the bend over the axle when installing, mine wasn’t pushed far enough back so my axle bent it very slightly one time, not a big deal but I wish I payed more attention when I did the install.

 

Pie walk.

 

Annnnd whyyyyyy were you parked running at 2500RPMs? Experimental purposes only?

I have one of a glow to share.

https://youtu.be/O7-ZylA7Nuc

 

Actually yes. I think I was messing with the stereo so it was idling for awhile. I don't like shutting it down after just idling a long time so I give it a little rpm for a minute or two before shutdown. Then I was feeling for my electric fan on how much it was blowing through the fender area and saw that.

That is an awesome video. Truly shows how hot cats get!

 

Probably at three in the morning.

 

The man doesn’t sleep.

 

Hey Roost, Do you have the 4" flex with the (INTERLOCK LINER) or the 6" flex with the (INNER BRAID). I am about to buy mine now and I know you have had issues with rattling. They claim that the (INNER BRAID) helps to eliminate "whistling".

 

Mine is 4" with inner liner.

 

Ok I am getting the 6" then... Thanks buddy!

 

@Stryker420's y-pipe almost finished. Just have to make a hangar and weld a brace in. Then attempt to figure out how to make a jig for this thing.

The area around the front drive shaft contoured to allow room for the larger diameter T4R's shaft.


I didnt measure but there is about .5 to .75" of clearance to the trans pan. I ran it high like this to allow as much space for skids as possible.


A good shot of the "all 45° bend" option and access to the trans drain and check bolts.



Plenty of space between frame and body to pipe.


Tucked!


O2 J bung adapter drivers side. You may have to bend the bracket at the trans to allow more room. This is positioned to best work without an adapter but the adapter and O2 will fit.


Here is a good pic showing how bending the bracket forward will allow slack in the O2 sensor harness.


Passenger side with J bung adapter.



All for now,

Roost

 

Well done Roost! Another one bites the dust.

on the j-bung fitment as well.

 

Thanks Jack! Not quite yet. This is the template for a jig if I can make one that will work.

 

If I could like this post more, I would! Great job. Consider using 1/2” rod to make “y” shapes that the pipe can sit down on during the assembly mock up.

Maybe make a couple of small jigs for a couple of the harder parts that can be bench made before assembly?