1. Welcome to Tacoma World!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tacoma discussion topics
    • Communicate privately with other Tacoma owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Need HELP: Coil-over install problem (now)

Discussion in '2nd Gen. Tacomas (2005-2015)' started by SCFirefighter, Jul 1, 2010.

  1. Jul 1, 2010 at 8:56 AM
    #1
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    I had the hardest time getting my old struts out. I'm in the process of swapping them for my (now) assembled ToyTec coil-overs with billys.

    I disconnected the sway bar, but still do not have enough room to insert the new assembly. I was able to get the old one out, but barely, by 'screwing' it out between the LCA and the tie-rods (at least that's what I think they are lol).

    The new coils are thicker, and they don't go back in that way.
    I tried everything in my arsenal to disconnect the tie-rod to create room to just slide the coil in, but nothing.
    I tried disconnecting the LCA from the UCA but I cannot get the bolt out of the UCA.

    I'm running out of options. One of them has to go to create room.

    Any suggestions?


    ETA: The toytec help document says to remove the lower balljoint mount, but even with the picture I can't see what they are talking about.
     
  2. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:00 AM
    #2
    stroM-

    stroM- @alteregoadventure

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Member:
    #19479
    Messages:
    2,654
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Santa Rosa, California
    Vehicle:
    2006 4X4 TRD OR
    You could always just bolt the LCA back up and remove the bolt from the UCA to the spindle... Might give you more wiggle room

    [​IMG]
     
  3. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:00 AM
    #3
    stroM-

    stroM- @alteregoadventure

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Member:
    #19479
    Messages:
    2,654
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Santa Rosa, California
    Vehicle:
    2006 4X4 TRD OR
    Obviously with the swaybar out though... this picture was just a random on google so you could see.
     
  4. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:02 AM
    #4
    Zac808

    Zac808 Custom User Title

    Joined:
    Aug 31, 2009
    Member:
    #22040
    Messages:
    2,808
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Zac
    Viva Las Vegas
    Vehicle:
    08 TRD DC SB 4x4
    In my sig
    Remove the the spindle from upper control arm. Remove cotter pin, loosen nut and seperate two pieces. Also remove bolt from brake line bracket on UCA. Be careful don't let hub wieght pull down on brake line.
     
  5. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:03 AM
    #5
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    I tied disconnecting the UCA. I got the pin out, took the nut off, and tried brute force including a hammer to push the bolt out. Nada.
     
  6. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:04 AM
    #6
    1337Taco

    1337Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    Member:
    #6504
    Messages:
    7,363
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    2015 4X4 Manual
    When I've always done it I just disconnected the spindle from the uca, pushed the uca up a bit and slid it in that way.
     
  7. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:04 AM
    #7
    mjp2

    mjp2 Living vicariously through myself Moderator

    Joined:
    Feb 16, 2007
    Member:
    #924
    Messages:
    21,863
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Milton Juevo Portimous II
    NJ
    Vehicle:
    '06 TRD Access Cab, v6, 6-speed
    Scaffolding and a painted grill
    Remove the castle nut from the tie rod end, then take a big hammer and hit the spindle on the side of where the tie rod inserts. You may have to do this 5-10 times hard, but the vibrations created will be enough to pop the tie rod out and you'll be able to move it out of the way.

    Never hit the threads of the tie rod.
     
  8. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:05 AM
    #8
    stroM-

    stroM- @alteregoadventure

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Member:
    #19479
    Messages:
    2,654
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Santa Rosa, California
    Vehicle:
    2006 4X4 TRD OR
    Dont try to hammer the bolt upward, hammer the side of the spindle that sticks out DOWN to loosen everything up.
     
  9. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:05 AM
    #9
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    Oh wait .. after taking the pin and nut off, all I need is apply downforce pressure? That I haven't tried.

    Edit: What I tried was hammering upwards on the bolt, expecting it to come out of the top of the UCA. Looking at this picture that obviously won't work.
     
  10. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:05 AM
    #10
    Janster

    Janster Old & Forgetful

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2007
    Member:
    #1138
    Messages:
    14,339
    Gender:
    Female
    First Name:
    Jandy
    Lancaster, PA
    Vehicle:
    2016 GMC Canyon SLT w/ LineX and....
    Back in the day on the 1st gen trucks.....

    We'd often require the assistance of a 'buddy' to stand ontop of the rotor and push it down with all his weight to give you more room.
     
  11. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:06 AM
    #11
    outlawtacoma

    outlawtacoma Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Sep 25, 2007
    Member:
    #2796
    Messages:
    3,323
    Gender:
    Male
    W. TN
    Vehicle:
    2018 T4RTRDOR
    x2

    yeah these things can be a pita! are you trying to do this in your garage, or are you at a hobby shop that has the right tools. cause you are gonna need a tie-rod seperator to get those apart.
     
  12. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:06 AM
    #12
    1337Taco

    1337Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    Member:
    #6504
    Messages:
    7,363
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    2015 4X4 Manual
    Or a hammer :D
     
  13. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:08 AM
    #13
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    Yep yep yep, I just saw that while inspecting that picture. Will try in a minute!
     
  14. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:08 AM
    #14
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    Rep for perfectly timed smart-ass comment :)
     
  15. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:10 AM
    #15
    1337Taco

    1337Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    Member:
    #6504
    Messages:
    7,363
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    2015 4X4 Manual
    Haha, thanks I felt as though MJP2 and strom and the others helped you out that it wouldn't be too ass-ish if I made that comment. :laugh:
     
  16. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:25 AM
    #16
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    I must be doing something wrong. Can't get it to budge. Standing on the rotor pushing down, and pulling up on the UCA .. nothing. It's a brand new Tacoma, so it's not like stuff is rusted in place.
    Even hammering the hell out of the UCA (from the bottom) while standing on the rotor to create tension isn't doing it. I'm not sure what part 'that sticks out' I should be trying to create downforce pressure (hammer or otherwise).

    Any more suggestions anyone?
     
  17. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:27 AM
    #17
    1337Taco

    1337Taco Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    May 9, 2008
    Member:
    #6504
    Messages:
    7,363
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Kevin
    NorCal
    Vehicle:
    2015 4X4 Manual
    Don't be afraid to smack the side of the spindle hard. It won't break it. I believe that is the best way to get it separated from the uca.
     
  18. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:27 AM
    #18
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    "Remove the 2 lower ball joint mount bolts and separate the ball joint from the spindle".
    Is this what I should be trying maybe? Can someone help me accomplish this with maybe a picture?
     
  19. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:28 AM
    #19
    stroM-

    stroM- @alteregoadventure

    Joined:
    Jul 9, 2009
    Member:
    #19479
    Messages:
    2,654
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jason
    Santa Rosa, California
    Vehicle:
    2006 4X4 TRD OR
    Where do you have the truck jacked up at? Middle crossbar right?
     
  20. Jul 1, 2010 at 9:30 AM
    #20
    SCFirefighter

    SCFirefighter [OP] on idiot patrol ;)

    Joined:
    Apr 20, 2010
    Member:
    #35670
    Messages:
    1,699
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Stephan
    Cary, NC
    Vehicle:
    Silver 2010 DC TRD Sport 4x4 5'
    MagnaFlow Performance Exhaust, ScanGauge II, Map, dome and license plate LED's, Custom Fire/Rescue decals, Weathertech deflectors, Removed mud flaps, Rear spring TSB, Spidertrax spacers, Tinted windows (5%/27%), Black Tacoma badges, 5100 Billstein x4, ToyTec Coilovers, ToyTec TSB AAL, Devil horns, Hose clamp tailgate mod, OEM bed mat, HomeLink module, Hardwire GPS, Weathertech digital fit floor lines, Front Diff drop, Rear Diff breather mod, 4xInnovation welded sliders, Pioneer AVH-X5800BHS+SiriusXM.
    That's where I jacked it, yes. But it's now resting on two stands on the outer parts of the frame.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top