0-20 oil too thin?

0w doesn't have any advantage over 5w or make any difference for that matter until you're well below -30F

 

OP just use 5w30. All this 0w20 shit is for fuel efficiency and meeting CAFE standards, which is why our transfer cases take $60 per quart 75w fluid, and our differentials take $30 per quart 75w85.

If you're easy on cars 0w20 will be fine, but if you beat on your car 5w30 or anything thicker than 20 eight oil will be beneficial because of the higher HTHS value (film strength).

 

Considering the non linear relationship for oil viscosity between 40-100DegC (test Temps for oil rating) I can assume it does have an impact below 40C. Is it big enough to matter? I don't know, but it's not in the direction of "better", hence recommendation.
As someone who has lived in Alaska and driven (and started cars) the Alcan many times in winter temps of much lower than where the C and F scales cross..... I like 0W a lot more than 5W.

 

Sorry for you! I grew up in New England and had my fill of cold winter weather. Moved to FLA and temps here rarely go below 40 degrees F. While 0W may be the best in your climate, it probably isn't the best in mine. Just been experimenting lately on 5-20 and may try 5-30 next change.

 

Well in your situation I would use 0w my self, but for most of us who don't get winters that cold 5w is more than adequate as it's rated down to -30C. Outside of extreme conditions the difference is minimal

 

I don't get the argument about bean counters asking engineers if 0-20 will work due to cost. I do understand them asking engineering to look for ways to save money while still meeting their warranty goals. I doubt the engineers even considered specifying 0-40 in the first place, so probably nobody got a neat award to put on their desk for finding savings in the oil. Haha, dummies, awards are cool.

Anyway, they are really only on the hook for the initial fill, and subsequent changes are covered by dealers or the customer. I do understand that a small savings multiplied by many vehicles does add up, maybe $1M per year across the Tacoma line for the difference between 20 and 40, so I guess cost is a plausible explanation -- if 0-40 was ever even considered.

I do know that I have used what was specified in all my vehicles and changed the oil at the recommended intervals and things were fine. Some people worry too much. I will continue to use 0-20 and do my yearly change (I do about 5-6K miles per year) and not worry. And if you decide to use 0-40, I still will not worry, and you probably shouldn't either.

 

It'll work more like:

Bean counter to purchaser: "Save 10% this year"
purchaser to vendor: "Got anything that will do the job cheaper"
vendor to purchaser: "This will do the job for 10% less"

and if we're lucky, they'll ask the engineers if it'll be okay.

Our MRO department bought a "spare" motor from a different vendor because it was cheaper. It was bought and put into MRO. My department pulls it because we have a bad motor. Then we find out it won't bolt up without significant modification to the base. ..... all because MRO was given a goal to save X%.

 

Yep, seen that happen before, too. And, a similar situation has happened with my wife on more than one occasion . . .

 

LOL which part? Here is your Audi MX schedule.

https://www.audiusa.com/content/dam...heduled_Maintenance_Flipbook_Pages_022317.pdf

You know how to google, I'm sure you can find the rest.

 

It's against MFG interests to require 0-40.
It probably costs more in bulk.
0-20 is fine for longevity even if it's not the best.
0-20 gets better mileage, so MFG can show 18mpg instead of 17mpg on sticker.

But people put big tires on their trucks, arguably better (but killing mpg)
Might as well put better oil in their trucks too

 

Toyota is not bean-counting on downgrading a few litres of oil people. Really?
Goddammit.....they gave you 13 bloody cup holders!! That’s not a stingy move.

Que the “but, cup holders sell cars” chorus......

 

I'll continue to use 0W-20 because...
Toyota makes decent engines and they require it.
Slight gpm increase is okay by me.
Cost is now equal to other synthetics.
Don't recall any of my Toyotas burning significant oil at <150K miles.
Why not use it? People are already hitting 100K on these engines and I bet their oil consumption with 0W-20 is still minimal.

 

I guess when I honestly consider this question of oil viscosity, I remind myself that the engine in these trucks has variable valve timing, which is a system that uses the oil as a hydraulic fluid to run the actuators associated with the variable valve timing. These assemblies are complex, and have numerous seals and moving parts, and are expected to behave in a certain way. I am assuming all of the testing done on the Variable Valve system was done with the specified oil weight, so if you go outside that, I would say there is some risk of malfunction, lessened life, or just worse performance.

Who knows, but why even bother?



v v Not exactly our specific Toyota engine, but same concept, and a great explanation even though it’s in someone’s backyard in Russia. A great educational for people who do not understand variable valve timing.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=T0G5KLN4a_w

 

The right viscosity to use is essential in todays modern engines. The video below also explains the reasons quite well imo, if anyone’s interested.

Hope that helps
Cheers!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0ngbn8eW8P4

 

Get out with your good information. These guys are all smarter than the Toyota engineers.

 

@hiPSI Dam straight they are, it's why they're here lol!

 

This guy told me to use 20W50 for longer engine life. I kinda trust him. He seems very smart.

 

So bouncing off the OPs question, is 0w20 too thin, is 75-90w diff oil also too thin?

 

Use what all these brainiacs use when determining Toyota engineers are wrong and they are better at figuring out oil specs.

 

This