Leaking Rack & Pinion

Smacking the spindle (NOT the tie rod bolt) with a hammer works much faster!
But since OP wants to change the rack bushings a pickle fork is good to have for both actually.

OP you're reman rack should have inner tie rods already but anyway autozone rents the inner tie rod tool for free and it works very well

 

Lol well it's not just that but this engine work I need would take 2+ Days alone

 

Tried smacking the spindle many times with a 3lb hammer first time I changed the rack and it didn’t do anything. The little TRE puller has been used so many times now between CV fixes, ECGS bushing, wheel bearing seal replacement, etc. For $15 it’s well worth it.

 

Maybe I'm confused. I understand removing the outer tie rod. I guess I thought pulling the inner tie rod from the old R&P made removal easier. Yes, No?

 

No, not really. Maybe a little but the extra work to pull off the boots and take them off defeats the purpose I think

 

I wouldn’t bother. The effort to remove them isn’t worth it. I was just saying that little tool is very handy for separating the TRE from the spindle. That held me up for awhile my first go around which is why I mentioned it

You’ll also definitely want to remove your TRE from your rack before removing it from the truck. Just take note of roughly where they are for when you put the new rack back in and new TRE on.

 

Right on, got it!
Thanks man

 

2 days alone...I'd stack golfballs for 2 days of alone time.

 

I saw a post here in TW where the steering shaft joint was replaced with a one that had a greasable universal joint. Is there a complete aftermaket shaft with a greasable joint availabel you're aware of?

 

Nope, I’ve never seen one.

 

Bummer...
Guess I'll replace with afetrmarket and stick with the old tire tube and axle grease set up.

 

Thought there was a recall of these?

 

I pulled the R&P from my 2010 in order to change out the bushings. It was a PITA to say the least. If you are going through the process to fix a seal, might as well buy a remanufactured OE rack, upgrade the bushings to poly (if desired) and return the core.

It's a DIY job if you have the tools and time. Make sure to use a box wrench on the lines and cover your CV boots (if you have 4wd) when removing to rack to protect them.

 

Good call protecting the CV boots
I'll do the job next week.
- R&P I went with a Master Pro remanufactured unit $300 out the door after returning the core. Good warranty and decent price.
- Going to upgrade to poly bushing while I am at it https://www.energysuspensionparts.com/8.10106
- New OEM rack bolts from the dealership. Going to cut the old ones out and reverse for easier installation and removal
- New greasable Moog outer tie rod ends
- and a magnetic power steering filter, why not right?... https://magnefinefilters.com/NEW-Ma...ine-Power-Steering-Filter-R038M-P-3810000.htm

 

You can get the bolts out without cutting as it will be the same dilemma going back in; unless you cut the new bolts. There is a thread here in which someone describes the technique to removing it without cutting bolts. It's still a pain.

Only other recommendations would be to not over tighten the PS fluid lines and take your time bleeding the system.

 

Did mine earlier this year. 8 hours from start to get the rack out. Then another 3 to get everything back together. Did wheel bearings while I was there too. Hardest part was finding the nuts for the inner tie rod end. The ones the ones on the old rack were a different size and new one didnt come with any.

 

What rack did you end up getting? Strange to not come with inner rob ends. Outer sure, but inners ?

 

Reman from rock auto. Came with the inners just not the m nut that threads on them to hold the alignment of the tie rod end

 

Welp* here's an update so far, I had a few hours kid free so decided to get started.

- Outer tie rod ends came off no problem.
- Power steering lines are another story, I'll be cutting them off to get the rack out tomorrow (add new lines to the parts list)
Is this what I'm after? https://www.partsgeek.com/gbproduct...7rACh3tQgojEAQYBiABEgIKrPD_BwE&ad=47584901292
- Got the passager side Rack bolt cut off. But, will need new blade for the saw to get the drivers side off. Picking up the OEM bolts from the Stealership tomorrow afternoon.

I have some concerns about getting the STEERING INTERMEDIATE SHAFT loose (plan on replacing it too)...its a corroded mess under there with little room to work. Steering wheel is being held in place with the seatbelt.

 

Says it's for the 4cylinder Tacos. Not sure why that would be different but just make sure!
For the lower intermediate shaft you need to loosen the coupler which is in front of the exhaust manifold when looking from the wheel well. So thanks to that it gets really rusty in there. Soak the crap out of it now. I held a torch to it once and split it open with a chisel.
It sucks.
This is one of the worst repair jobs I've ever done and now I have to do it again (different truck tho)