0-20 oil too thin?

Fair enough but when I asked the online magic 8 ball if you are right about this it said

My sources say no.
So there !

 

That's good. I deserved that. One question though:
If somebody posted a thread asking a question about using a paperclip to hold a suspension part together, you have no idea but it sounds good to you, several people said sure, the paperclip idea works fine, but others then post it was the worst idea ever and damage could occur and they pointed back to the owners manual which states paperclips should not be used, wouldn't you want somebody to argue and prove that idea of using a paperclip suckedeven though you liked it?

 

Why keep it to Toyota? Can anyone show a documented case of engine failure due to using the recommended oil, in ANY car?

I think not.

 

I've got about 1000# of construction material in and on my truck, and another 1500-2000# of ATV and material in my trailer which I am going to tow about 120 miles one way tomorrow.
I am using the spec'd oil.
I will update this post from the side of the road if I have issues.
Wish me luck.

 

Prove with facts and links yes ! Belittle , insult and enjoy doing it , because others give a like , no. I have been guilty of going with the crowd myself and regret it . Fun is fun but even the worst assholes should put a JK at the end .

 

We don't joke here.

Taco's are serious bidness.

 

It is not an accute problem, or a problem most,new car owners worry about.
Just like smoking a few cigarettes didn’t cause someone to die today therefore cigarettes are healthy.

 

You won’t need luck. You’ll be fine. I would wish you luck if you were using non spec’d oil.

 

Do you have proof (failures, decreased durability) of this TOYOTA engine running longer on a different oil than 0W-20? I read your prior posts, you know what you are talking about but the proof is in the pudding so to speak.

 

No, statistical analysis requires time for sample size to develop. The sample size due to scale, is there with ford ecoboost engines using 5w20s and Chevrolet DI applications but a large number of failures has not been apparent with the 2gr FKS in the 2016+Tacoma application.
My posit is that the mechanism and the fix have been established for other makes, are we going to wait until failures arise before we take preventative action? It is easier to change oil grade than replace a timing chain. Could I be wrong? Yes! This is trend anayalsis on technology type and not on granular makes, but trends are truth before it is common knowledge.
Much of this has to do with an honest self assessment.
Do you plan on owning and operating the truck longer than 100k or 7 years? If not I wouldn’t worry. Seriously, you won’t see an issue with toyota quality motors and the 0w20 recommendation.
However if you do plan on driving it to the junkyard, or you want to buy used in a few years..this becomes a highly relevant question.

 

Understood and I concur. I will have 100K on mine in two more years. I personally have zero worries. However, if I knew I was going to make this my last truck ever, I wouldn't take it past 150K before going through the motor, at least the top end. Even then, for all intents and purposes, you will run into fatigue failure after 300-350K miles on a standard life cycle engine.
I guess my point, like you, is what are you going for? Oil is only going to take you so far. Eventually wear and fatigue are your problems.
Good post though.

 

True, most current new Tacoma owners will sell or trade a vehicle within 3-7 years. This is not a bad tact with Toyota trucks and body on frame suvs with strong residuals. However, these trucks are still “new” by modern standards.
Fact is I regret trading or selling every toyota I have sold or traded..a more financially astute or perhaps disciplined individual would still be driving the 2002 taco I had.

 

If you can spread confusion you can sell them your, or really any product. Even snake oil, that seems to be the goal.
Even if you don't fool all the people all of the time, you can fool some of the people some of the time and make living out of it.

If you're smart, and realize repairs are expensive if anything should go wrong you wouldn't, because if you've been around you'd know that...

I think they may have an agenda. You can't be at the top if someone's there, so, when you're numero uno, everybody's gunning for you.
And you can't help but wonder where all this ignorance is coming from, but if you follow the money it usually leads in one direction.

 

Very mistaken. Although 0w20 is getting more common.

 

German cars are still holding the 5w-40

 

I agree, but I am now 55yo and realize I am not getting out of this life alive. I enjoy vehicles. Others enjoy travel. Still others want two houses. So, losing money on a depreciating asset is not as good as spending it all on hookers and coke, but it's me.
I keep looking for a vehicle I truly want to keep but so far, I have not found it.

 

Finally some good discussion from knowledgeable people .
Will you both be kind enough to expel the possible benefits or detriments for the forever truck of
1 shorter oil change intervals
2 extra filtering /remote inline or whatnot
3 0W20/0W40 in towing / hot climates or other severe uses /or other viscosities
4 oil catch cans
5 engine prelubing systems .

 

Tough question. I will give you my opinion on this being a forever truck and answer each with what additional mileage could be gained. Assumptions: 10K miles a year average. Normal application cycle.
1. Oil and additives have improved greatly. No reason not to change it earlier but based on sampling, you won't gain any additional mileage out of the engine before fatigue.
2. Extra filtering would help. Probably one of the absolute best things you can do. Unfortunately, you have to be the one to spec it, meaning micron rating, etc. If it's not right then it's a waste of money. If it's right it could add 25K or more to your engine.
3. True severe use, like pulling a trailer every day or driving dirt roads for 30 miles a day, absolutely, put the greater viscosity in there. However if you have these applications, you will shorten engine life no matter what oil you run.
4. Not needed. Adds no additional engine life. It looks pretty
5. Another item not needed. No additional life. Both #4 and #5 are for home built or small run engines with something special, racing or something. Normal engines don't need these things and adding them actually just adds complexity and failure points.

To get the most life, do maintenance exactly as the owners manual suggests. Do preventative maintenance, like top end inspection at 150K. Change your fluids.

At 10K a year, it will take 12 years before you change transmission fluid. You might want to shorten some intervals just because of time.

My opinion, these engines have 300K mile expected life if well taken care of. That's a lot and at 10K that's 30 years. These are my opinions.

 

I will be honest,
1. Pros removes soot and abrasives- assures oil antiwear and antiacid additives are still active and replenished
cons- time and money expended for unknown amount of wear protection removal- increase waste stream.
This is where duty cycle matters. Short trips, excess idling, low mpg duty like high speeds, towing off-road? Go severe. Average an honest 20-26mpg? Use normal service.
2- pros extend oil change interval potential due to removal of solids that can deplete the additives and agglomerate-oxidized or acidizedcombustion by products in the oil.
Cons- filtration technology not well tested with GDI (gasoline direct injected)applications and the soot byproducts.(they are much finer than filtration capability.) So the extra filtration Could be a false sense of security while unseen, undetected soot wears engine parts as they concentrate in the engine oil with time and miles.
3. HTHS is beneficial during high stress high rpm situations such as towing, high speed or driving over mountain passes. Higher HTHS keeps the engine in the hydrodynamic zero wear fluid film wedge longer than lower HTHS, as the engine is stressed the block and The Crank can distort, the rotation of the crank in the journal is not concentric and features peak high pressure zones and low pressure zones around the journal bearing, higher HTHS resist shearing away longer than lower HTHS. This could literally be a drag though when the application is not pushed.
Anectdotally My mileage is unaffected by higher HTHS. But different duty cycles could yield different results. Such as many short trips, in which case Higher HTHS would literally be a drag.
4. Oil catch can, I think the additional port injection and the injector cleaning cycle handles this issue for the 2gr fks.
5. I think there is enough oil film on the crank/journals, and the cylinder and piston interface to form idle protection while fresh oil is pumpedup to the top.
I drive a eco boost f150 for work with the auto start stop feature. It will shut the engine down at a light and restart it and I accelerate right away when green, this cycles many times by many vehicles in the ford fleet and have not had a dry take off spinning a bearing yet. Oil has a tendency to coat surfaces.
Oil pumps are positive displacement and new oil shows up almost instantly. Unless it is a newly assembled engine or a rebuild and Cleaned, there is always oil on the parts, enough to provide some hydrodynamic and barrier film protection until it is refreshed with fresh supply.
So no it is not a super turbine needing a prelube

 

What are your thoughts about toyota specifying the same

$52 0w-20 oil Toyota/ exxon mobil Case of 6 Quarts Full Synthetic TGMO SN 0W-20 Oil

0w-20 oil to owners living in northern Alberta, where temps hit -30 Fahrenheit, and Arizona, where temps hit 130 degrees? Two extremes where temperatures can kill a human being rather quickly.