The Lair

That's also what I plan on but I want to take with me on long Trek's.
That and finally not having to pack and unpack every time I go somewhere

 

Nice Score! I like it!

 

Longer trips, like if I ever do maob or something like that, I'll just go minimalist.

 

Does the manual have all the stuff you need? Like oil, gasket silicone, etc? Haven’t really looked at it.

 

Here's what you want for gear oil, 3 quarts of it

$13 Lucas Oil 10042 Heavy Duty High Performance SAE 85W-140 Gear Oil - 1 Quart

https://www.amazon.com/Lucas-Oil-LU...id=1543781357&sr=8-2&keywords=85w140+gear+oil

And I used RTV for my gasket.

$7 Permatex 82180 Ultra Black Maximum Oil Resistance RTV Silicone Gasket Maker, Sensor Safe And Non-Corrosive, For High Flex And Oil Resistant Applications 3 oz

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UEN1U/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Only downside of RTV is you're supposed to let it cure for 24 hours before adding fluid. I failed to read the directions and waited like 1 hour, but I haven't had any leaks. You'll also need grease to hold the springs and shit in place while assembling. This is the grease I use for most everything (including winch rebuild) and also what I used for the locker assembly, though I'm sure any grease would do.

 

But I like the idea of breaking it up into two days. Should be able to get it done after 5 on a Friday and then back in first thing the next morning.

Maybe get it in this weekend. I’ve got something to do around 3:30 so that might be enough time.

 

Good deal. Thanks! I’m pretty sure that’s the same grease the guy used. Doubt they are picky about which grease to use.

If I can get the stuff I may try to get it started Friday.

 

What's nice is once the 3rd member is out, all work can be done indoors so it doesn't matter if it gets dark or not.

Not sure if I shared this tip but rather than remove the hard brake lines to slide the axles out, unbolt all brackets holding the hard line to the axle. Then pull the axle out and shove a 2x4 to hold it out. Do that on both sides and the 3rd member will come out. Saves from having to bleed the brakes.

Edit: also you'll want crush washers for the drain and fill plug. Some people don't replace them but I always do. In my experience it leaks if I reuse them.

 

Get an oil soluble grease. What Randy posted is good. You'll also want to change your gear oil probably about 5-10k after the install or shorter to get the grease out. It won't hurt anything if you don't but it will change the viscosity a little depending on how much you end up using. How much IDK would it hurt it to leave it in doubtful. Up to you but that's what I would do. Also is there any break in period where they suggest changing the fld after x amount of use.

 

I bet you can find some specs online somewhere.

 

No break in period. All they say is after about 50 miles the locker will quiet down, which is accurate in my experience. I hardly know it's there anymore.

 

I do only if they are badly deformed or leaking prior to servicing. Never had one leak I just give them a little extra calibrated elbow torque when reinstalling. Same process for all drain plugs for me.

 

Probably about the same as regular. You have to put in synthetic oil so it shouldn’t break down.

 

This is what it should of said

In all seriousness they will quiet down some as the ratchets wear into each other. I would probably change the oil sooner than wait the full service interval just to see if there are any abnormalities in the oil.

 

Have to put synthetic oil in what?

 

I think it's a little of that but mostly me just adjusting my driving habits haha

 

No oil breaks down. When we talk about oil break down it's talking about all the additives and such that in the oils. Also little know secret synthetic oil still has a base of dino oil in it.

 

I thought you had to put synthetic back into the diff. Might just be what people do. I’ll have to read the manual.

 

You can pick your poison and both have their pros and cons. ECGS recommends the oil I linked you above (it's dino oil)

https://eastcoastgearsupply.com/files/PDF Files/ecgs-gear-oil-recommendation1.pdf

What I gathered from the article is that dino will remain viscous when it warms up, but will break down faster. Syn thins out when it gets warm, but doesn't break down as fast.

Dino is significantly cheaper, so ECGS just recommends dino oil and replacing it a bit more frequently, like every 15k or 20k instead of 30k. I trust them since they're the diff gurus.

 

Took him half a day. You are up to 2 months now. Git r dun