Tips for building my 1995 Toyota Tacoma 5 speed manual 4x4

Hello fellow members,

I apologize ahead of time if this sounds like another newb thread, but I really need your guys help. I inherited my fathers 95 tacoma after he passed not long ago. I am about to sell one of my toys to bring my fathers truck back to life so it can be my new daily driver, with a more aggressive look. Upon completion I plan to sell my daily so that I don't have more than 2 cars.

Interior and exterior wise I already have a route I am planning on taking. The seats, carpet, door panels, headliner, and dash will be cleaned and sprayed black , I am sourcing black carpet and having the seats re-wrapped in black fabric as well.

Exterior wise I am having body work done and having it resprayed its factory color (red).

As for the suspension and motor maintenance thats where I need you guys. Let me start with the suspension questions I have.

I plan to do a 2 to 2.5 inch lift to accommodate bigger tires on aftermarket wheels. I know the rest of the suspension probably needs some maintenance so that it doesn't drive like poo after the lift. What all do you guys suggest that I replace? Balljoints front and rear? are there upper and lower balljoints? Inner and outter tie rods? Any bushings? And obviously front and rear shocks/struts.

Motor wise I know my pops had a recent timing belt and water pump replaced along with the regular maintenance items (spark plugs and wires). The problem here that I am trying to figure out is why the mph needle doesn't go up and down normally. It is bouncy. On the highway the truck is slow to reach high speeds 60 + mph. I recently found that the intake pipe is broken so I am sure that has to be part of the problem. Transmission feels strong but I remember the clutch being replaced about 6-8 years ago, should I have that replaced as well?

Any help and advice will be gladly appreciated.The truck is rough but I know that with some time, work, and money I can have it looking and running great.

P.s I plan to do most of the work myself.

http://s1294.photobucket.com/user/vmendo00/media/20181203_093345_zpsxoxvdogs.jpg.html][/URL]

 

Whats wrong with more then 2 vehicles I have 4 on the road for just me.

If your Truck was taken care of why not just fix the problem areas rather then a total makeover .

Time work and money is a bit understated .

This truck must live in the South west or the frame would be rusting away

If the intake is broken between the filter and throttle body the check engine light should be on.

I wonder do you have a Tacoma or a Pick Up ??

 

I’m also curious. People mistake the Tacoma and Pickup all the time.

As to preventative maintenance, definitely go OEM on the lower ball joints. Those are a huge point of failure on these trucks.

Lift wise, avoid drop bracket and spacer lifts. A proper suspension lift is what you want to retain a decent ride quality and have that off road capability.

Something like Old Man Emu coils, Bilstein 5100’s, and a generic Add-a-Leaf is cheap and will give you a good quality lift.

Other high end options include Icons, Kings, and Fox coilovers.

 

Welcome. Sorry about your dad. Have you checked out some build to get an idea of what you want?

 

If you’re spending money on the seats, get different seats installed. The stock seats suck even if you reupholster them. They’re just not comfortable at all.

 

I hate having a lot of stuff and stuff taking up space. I rather save money on taxes and insurance. The truck has been in Arkansas most of its life. Very little to no rust. Check engine light is on, just havent looked into the code its throwing out.

Its a Tacoma, not the little tacoma pick ups. And thanks for the tip, I was looking into a Rough country 2 in lift with their front and rear shocks, are those any good? The price seems nice.

Thank you my friend, I just began looking through he 1st gen builds but it seems that everyone wants to take theirs off roading. I plan to keep it on city/hwy roads with the ocassional haul of the boat to the lake.

Ok thanks for the tip. I did find some on my local cl, mind letting me know if these will bolt in?

https://fortsmith.craigslist.org/pts/d/tacoma-98-up-seats-and-center/6761440750.html

Im a 240sx guy and know what going prices are for that platform, I am still super new to Tacoma part prices.

 

What on earth is that supposed to mean?

 

Lol like I said pardon my lack of knowledge. Just posted a pic of it in my original post.

 

No worries, it's a nice truck! That's the Tacoma... Earlier in '95 they made a truck just called the Toyota Pickup and the Tacoma replaced it.

Just thought I'd add in, my speedometer needle does the same thing as yours... Not sure if that's just a mechanical speedometer thing, which would be on yours and mine, (the newer first gen are digitally controlled), or if there's something wrong with it. My tachometer needle operates smoothly, so I've been trying to figure that out for myself too.

 

Avoid Rough Country. They’re not known to have very good lifts. They’re one of the lower end brands.

Look into ToyTec or ICON if you want a kit. The cheapest decent suspension lift will be Bilstein 5100’s with OME springs.

 

Awesome thank you for the info. I was able to find these at an awesome price:

https://www.suspensionconnection.co...oma/1995?brand=&category=bilstein-5100-shocks

Looks like the fronts provide a 0 to 2.5 inch lift while the rears only go up to 1 inch. What would I need to do to level it? New leafs?

 

Add a Leaf

 

Thank you,

More newb-ness coming your way. So say I get the 5100s and i set them at 2 inch up front, should I leave the rears at 0 lift and just add these to the rear to level it at 2 inches? :https://www.sdtrucksprings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=9441

Ordering these parts soon along with ball joints and inner and outer tie rods thats why I ask. Would hate to order incorrect parts that would not work together.

 

People say 4runner seats from 03 i believe bolt up. I'm currently working on the wiring to get a set of 2009 m3 seats working and then I'll have custom brackets made. I already know those are comfortable from having an m3. My taco seats are KILLING my back at the moment. I'd almost rather drive sitting on a damn milk crate.

 

Which is why you'll see it referred to as a "1995.5" Tacoma

 

OK guys, been doing some research. If I set the front at 2.5 with the 5100's plus the ome springs & 5100's in the rear with the 2 inch aal. Do you all recommend that I do a diff drop? Also should I get extended brake lines, if so front and rear or ????

Thanks in advance.

 

Sorry for the lack of updates guys. I have been ordering parts, they are filling up my storage room. Once I get everything I need I will begin the teardown of the interior and suspension.

I have a question for those of you that are Tacoma wheel fitment gurus.

I bought a set of super clean Texas edition wheels. I plan to do a 2.5-3 inch lip up front and a 2.5 inch lift in the rear. What would be the maximum tire that I can run on those. I would like something that the factory gearing can handle. Would 33's be excessive?

I believe the wheel specs are 17x8 with a +18 offset. I do not mind running spacers if needed. Thanks in advance.

 

265/70 on 17s would be what if recommend to keep it close to factory specs and not kill your mpg.

I run 265/75/16 I have 5100s up front set on 0 with toytec 3” lift springs, rear I have 5100s with a 1.5” add a leaf and it leveled me perfectly. I also have a diff drop, it helped with some of the vibrations after the lift.

 

Thank you for that info sir. The tires that came with the wheels are indeed a 265/70 , theyre trash but it will help me decide if I want to replace them with same size tires or go up a bit.

 

QUESTION: I have been buying a lot of parts for my rebuild. Money got a little tight for suspension.
I now plan to buy factory shock/strut replacement for the front and rear. I was wondering if I did a 2" front and 1" rear leveling kit with factory struts/shocks would be a bad idea. My cousin gave me a brand new Supreme suspension leveling kit (2"f/1"r) for free so I would like to use it if possible. With that being said, would the factory rear struts work with a 1" block? Also would I still need a diff drop and brake valve bracket? Adjustable UCA's?

I feel that with taller tires and after it is all installed it should get me to my desired 2.5-3" up front and 2 inch rear. Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.