Sound Deadener Recommendations

The doors will make the biggest difference, but a full treatment on just the doors and rear wall wouldn't make sense. MLV is a barrier layer and 100% coverage is the goal (not attainable, but as close as you can get). If you're just going to do one thing, some sort of CLD is arguably the better option, but decoupling while you're in there can be done on the cheap with neoprene. I did my Taco in steps - CLD on its own. MLV after that. Then decoupler after that. The decoupler probably made the biggest difference, but that's on an old-ass 1st gen.

And it's worth well more than $400...a full treatment anyway. Not only is it a much quieter ride, but the truck just feels more solid. You get some thermal benefits from all this as well...mostly from your decoupling layer. Your truck maintains a more even temperature and requires less effort from the HVAC to do the same thing. And on really hot or cold days it can really make the difference.

 

This is great information, thanks for responding. Would it makes sense to install just CLD tiles in the doors (inner and outer), and a neoprene layer? I feel like this would be a cost effective way to test effectiveness and then potentially open Pandora's box and spend the rest.

 

Yeah, you can totally do that. You won't need to tear the whole truck down to do that either - just the doors.

 

Awesome, thanks for the help. I'll give this a shot.

 

How would you recommend attaching the Neoprene to the door?

 

I didn't. I attached it to the MLV with Super 77 - which is attached by strong velcro. Neoprene tears easily so I'd probably do a few small self-adhesive velcro strips that I can get to easily to pull it off if needed - like near the edges i/o in the center. Neoprene is light - it doesn't need much and will be squeezed between panels anyway - just need something to hold it up while you get everything back together.

 

I just finished doing MLV on the floor and back walls. I've already deadened the heck out of the doors using sound skins. https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-full-system-jbl-tear-out.567718/

How much benefit do you think I would get by adding an MLV layer in the front doors? I need to open them up one more time and it seems like the right time.

 

Should be pretty significant if done correctly and completes the treatment. That's your barrier layer - keeps the outside noise from coming in.

 

I was thinking of doing a layer between the door & the door panel of MLV. I'm getting lazy on this install now...

 

Yeah, you definitely want a decoupling layer. I used neoprene on both sides of the MLV i/o the typical single side. I don't understand just decoupling one side. Both sides can generate noise. That's where the 1/16" neoprene came in really handy instead of doing a single side at 1/8".

 

I just read through your thread that you linked. That install is sic! Such nice work on the deadner and nice selection of components.

 

I think having a decoupling layer on both sides of the MLV is just a return on investment issue. Probably the first layer of foam/mlv do 95% of the work. Everything with sound damping/blocking is diminishing returns.

Thanks! I went a bit overboard, but it's been a good way of staying busy on the weekends. It's fun to make a change to the truck and then see how/if the cabin experience improves.

 

I used a fair amount of soundskins in the doors of my pickup in the thread I linked a few posts back.

Soundskins:
Pros:

• Price is good
  
• The roll is one continuous piece of damper material. Gives you flexibility when doing big/small cuts.
• The foam is good quality, but not a very good sound barrier.

Cons:

• Harder to press onto non-flat surfaces. The foam gets in the way of rolling down the damper by reducing pressure on the aluminum.
• Requires a sharp razor to cut. Dull razors snag on the foam and separate it from the aluminum.

Concerns:

• I worry about foam separation over time.

Overall I think the dynamat or the second skin damper pro are my favorite to work with.

 

The thing is, the cost to treat both sides in the doors with half thickness instead of one side with full thickness isn't much more expensive...maybe another 10 bucks so. If that. It's a little more labor, but if one side of the MLV is rubbing against something and buzzing at certain frequencies, it suddenly becomes a little less optional. But if one decoupling layer is going to be used I'd put it between the door card and MLV instead of between the outer skin & MLV. That way at least any induced buzzing or rattling will be on the other side of the barrier layer.

 

I think there's a compelling argument to use foam between MLV and other plastics/metals etc to prevent vibrations/buzzes/clicks etc.

 

Great feedback! Thanks

 

Has anyone tried using truck bed urethane liner on the inside of the door panel coating it thick? At least as a measure in the trifecta of treatment?!

 

I wouldn’t try it. I would buy the spray on stuff from second skin audio. I probably wouldn’t spray inside my truck at all tho.

 

I wouldn't be able to deal with wondering how much better it would be if the floors were also treated. I did the floors in 1 weekend. 90% coverage parts express stick on, yoga mats, and mlv from Amazon prime for $100. Doors next weekend. All in for less than $250. Just do it all, cover as much as reasonably possible, and never wonder if you could have done better. Just my 2 cents, get in there and cut up your hands.

 

And, the rear wall makes a HUGE difference. That is a very noisy wall and the rear vents need special attention to allow for air to pass while adding a noise barrier. See my photos on previous page with yoga mat rolled over the vents.