NJ B.S. Thread

Lloyd dude I don't mean to be a buzz kill but I don't think your going to get very far with those wheels and tires, the first rock you hit ……... I think you'll wana up grade them

 

Are your studs short enough for 3/4 spacers?

Didn't you have some steelies from wheelers before?

Your thoughts on steel vs alloy, if you don't mind, please sir.

This question is open to anyone please feel free to respond @stairgod @Arcticelf

 

Will 37’s fit? Or do I need upgrade the suspension?

 

I believe the studs will need to be trimmed.

I had 16” steelies before. I needed 17s to run 37s. No tire selection for 16” 37s

My thoughts on steelies VS alloys is such. I was tearing up the alloys. I welded rock rings to my last steelies. I’m going to weld bead locks to this set.

 

I will second jo n's motion that you are a dick.

All in favor say, arggha.

All opposed say, Tim's a dick.

Your a good man Charlie Tim.

 

How's the weight difference vs strength?

 

A steel wheel with a 3/16 bead lock ring welded on, and a 3/16” Beadlock ring bolted on with 32 grade 8 bolts is WAY stronger, and WAY heavier, than alloy wheel

 

My alloys were like 85 lbs with the 35” Cooper Pros.

The steelies with rock rings with the same tires were 20 lbs heavier.

The 37s with on steelies with weld on Beadlocks will be even more heavy.

 

Your gonna need a bigger EVERYTHING.

 

3/4" spacers will work on some aluminum rims without cutting due to the relief machined into the back of the wheel mounting surface(if present, depends on the wheel). Steelies have no such luck and the studs will have to be trimmed.
Steel wheels will bend at the bead area much easier than aluminum rims, but can also be bent back and put back into service right on the trail. Aluminum rim breaks and you are screwed until you can get it welded(and the integrity of that repair depends soley on the quality of the casting. Generally cast aluminum is filthy and welds like shit).
Rock rings welded to the outer part of a steelie(like Tim did to his last set) greatly increases the strength of the bead area, making then nigh invulnerable.

 

I just checked. I think I’ll get away without trimming the OEM studs with these wheels too. The mounting surface is recessed.

The OEM studs are 7/8” out past the rotor. The spacers will be 3/4” (provided they are large enough to keep the wheel center from contacting the calipers). The rececess on the wheels is 3/16”. If my math is correct, that leaves me precisely 1/16” wiggle room between the studs and back of the wheels.




This is where the wheel will rub. How much do you suppose I can grind off before it turns into a game of peekaboo?

 

Excellent post.

 

Get a 3/16 spacer for the spacer. Nice finger you got there. Hmmm

 

That's my resident Internet engineer.

 

I get that a lot

 

I ain't no carpenter, but that stud looks to be 13/16" out from the rotor..

You may as well get the BBK now. Will clear the wheels and actually help you stop that beast

 

Anyone have experience wiring a 4000w inverter in the truck?

 

It does look like 13/16” in the pic. It’s just the angle.

Even so, that would leave me TONS of room

 

• I have zero knowledge.Just passing this on
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