TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Like I said your truck will no longer be a Tacoma, it will be a "Dwayne."

Paint it all black. California legal. What the hell does the smog guy know. Lol.

That's a pretty trick setup man. I like that!

 

Baby steps my bruddah. That's what progress looks like.

 

Agreed! I gotta up my numbahs. Been running the TRD tune now though and truck has been running very well. AFRs are much more stable now. Did the FPR mod tonight and put on the 2.7. Seeing a consistent 6lbs of boost. Seems like it should be higher, but maybe since my exhaust is completely open and i dont have any cats its a little lower? Truck pulls like a freight train with the 4.10s now too. Its starting to come along nicely

 

Boost numbers aren't everything. It sounds like by opening the exhaust that much more you dropped in restriction. So if the truck pulls incredibly hard then it must be the equal to 8 or 9 psi. I pull 11.2-12 psi consistently on WOT. The blower revs insanely quick and the truck pulls like a monster but I have further plans in store for my intake using ideas that @White lightning boosted and @Roostfactor have talked about in the past to address my random MAF glitches I get from time to time. I may end up with a totally different redesign of the URD intake by the time all this is said and done.

 

Thats what i figured, it feels like a lot more than 6psi, but i think there is some belt slip as well, which is why im putting in a shorter belt. Also want to get one of @Roostfactor 's belt wrap idlers. Time to start combatting the slip.

Are you running high flow cats? Or if youre still running the stock ones.. how have you not melted them yet?

Interested in the redesign of the URD intake. I need to do mine as well, its rubbing slightly on the intercooler, but ive been dragging my feet

 

I'm still semi designing a Snorkel/Intake utilizing an exhaust cutout solenoid so I can run a snorkel and a URD type intake in front of the radiator and then if I ever do get into some water or something I can activate the solenoid and close the front intake and only pull through the snorkel. I had all the piping and stuff sourced and had an inline filter 4" I think, but kinda scrapped it since it was gonna be like $600 in parts and I can't weld aluminum lol

 

You are running the roush tensioner no? A shorter belt may not be the answer for you. The cats cannot get melted if you have sufficient fuel to keep them cool while you run that much lean air through the engine. I am currently running stock cats (thanks California) and they are plenty healthy as confirmed through my OBD 2 vatslytic converter health parameters.

 

What intake do you currently have? I’m eyeing that urd intake you mentioned to add to my current safari snorkel.

 

I think there are a few aluminum welders in the area. I know there is one in Pittsburg for sure and maybe Martinez. I'm not sure about any in your area, if they are out there. That setup would be pretty trick to see. I am still on the fence about doing a variable switching standard vent to FPR switch to boost referenced FPR mod to correct part throttle richness as suggested by @loginfailed (I think it was you Dwayne?) but right now, the TPS switch needs to be activated prior to 85% throttle. A switch would be very expensive to the setup as it would have to be programmable.

 

No sir, stock tensioner.. plan to run the roush, just havent pulled the trigger yet

 

Dont think about it. Just do it. Peace of mind to your serpentine setup and the increased tension would negate slippage with a properly sized belt.

A shorter belt would spell trouble come time for the Roush tensioner (unless you run an e fan) especially if you run the shorter fleetrunner belt, as they are very resilient to stretching and offer increased traction from the gate.

 

Just a note I am pretty sure almost all of those cutouts leak slightly even when fully “closed”. Just something to keep in mind. I may have had one on the stock exhaust

 

Shit. You are right actually. They do leak. I know because I ran an e-cut out once not on this truck, but yeah. Then again, they may simply leak due to the extreme heat they are normally exposed to.

 

Yeah its definitely on the back burner for now, to many other projects going on that have my attention first.

 

Correct me if im wrong, but are you saying i should run the stock length belt and just get the roush tensioner?

 

I need to get you pics of mine. Seems to be working pretty dang good. Flows lots of air and it is within 2-3 degrees of ambient. I know you said you were 3 hours from St.Anthony, where abouts in MT are you. I go up to my parents place 3-4 times a year. They are farther away in Thompson Falls but maybe I drive through your neck of the woods heading to their place or to North Dakota.

 

No. I'm saying run the correctly sized length belt according to your pulley size application, then run the Roush and pulley wrap mod. Otherwise you will have the tensioner striking the clutch fan fins.

What size pulley did you say you have again?

 

Gotcha, im running the 2.7 on a stock belt and stock tensioner right now. Going to get the belt wrap mod and roush tensioner and then throw on the fleetrunner when i drop down to the 2.6 that i have waiting

 

If you run a 2.6 a 69.5" fleetrunner belt I posted on page 1 will suffice. 2.7-2.8 will require a 70" or closest size available belt size fleetrunner I posted in page 1. The fleetrunner belt has a tackier belt back to increase traction on the pulleys as it runs through the serpentine belt. The serpentine system will realize the majority of its boost gains because of said traction increase throughout the serpentine system.

When in doubt, page 1 is the best reference for belt sizes.
I actually need to update page 1 to include fuel system mods.. namely the filter style that @Torspd has posted here tonight.

 

Yess that is the green one i just bought. Trimmed a rib off of it tonight.

Yeah that fuel filter setup is NICE!!