TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

You are good to go then! The 69.5 or 69.6" belt?

There is a reason any good V8 D1SC/ P1SC Procharger and Maggie owners run Fleetrunner belts.

Prior to finding the correct sizes all of us with the TRD blowers were living in the stone age as far as serpentine belt technology was concerned. The future is now.

After you run your new belt, you will love your setup that much more. I promise you.

 

Yup the open exhaust from headers back will definitely lessen any boost numbers @rjbiii But make no mistake MAF makes rwhp!

 

Its the k060696hd. I believe 69.56" according to pg.1 of this thread..

Cant wait to get everything put on! Need to get a tensioner now though..

 

My humble suggestion is the roostfactor belt wrap first. Easy, quick install, instant results. Gives you a more accurate measure of whatever size pulley you run.

 

Thats what i thought as well! Thanks for confirming sir!

 

I agree, i will probably do this, then the tensioner, and then put the new pulley on. Meth goes in this weekend though! So excited for that

 

I'm searching for best price on the tensioner now. Might hold out for a last minute online coupon. I'm also looking for a meth plate. Might alter one from a chevy ls. Wish I knew the bolt pattern between tundra and chev. Let me know if you have questions with the install.

 

@rjbiii If you plan to run both simultaneously the proper belt size is critical if you want to upgrade to the Roush tensioner in the near future shortly after. Striking the aluminum clutch fan blades will not sound pretty and will also cause some damage.

 

How does that edlebrock tensioner you posted a couple pages back compare to the Roush one? @12TRDTacoma

 

It's not a tensioner. Only additional reinforcement for the stock OE unit. The stock OE unit spring strength is still the same.. however, as I previously mentioned is not currently available, as Edelbrock is currently not producing it for some reason. The item is out of stock anywhere you look, even on Edelbrock's site.

 

Let me know if you find a good deal on it..

What kinda meth plate you talking about?

Will let you know if i have questions. Hopefully its a pretty straight forward install. The extra knock protection is my main reason for adding it. Im paranoid af now after having fueling issues for so long

 

It is imperative to run the shorter belt because that forces the tensioner back down to where it would be with the stock length belt and the bigger pulley right? Just trying to get this straight in my head.. dont have an efan and probably will stick with my fan clutch for a while

 

Roush, Steeda, Thump, and ARS are the only full tensioner replacements still available.

Pick the poison which best suits your wallet.

Obviously ARS, and Thump are better choices due to the fact that they are fully overhauled full strength billet units, with not a single piece of cast aluminum in them, expensive, however, and will require decent modification to be a direct transfer on to the serpentine setup, including the purchase of a new double roller idler from LFP, which I've highlighted in page 1, which further drives the cost up (unknown if ARS requires as much nodding as the Thump unit). Rousch is the next bet which will require minor modification as well to work reliably on the serpentine system. It is stronger than the OE unit in every way and is cheaper than the full billet overhaul versions, however, is still cast aluminum.

Pick your poison @JuanitoBunito.

 

If you run a slightly longer belt with a higher effective length number the tensioner will rest at a position more south than the shorter properly sized belt, which makes the tensioner arm rest at a higher position which is a little closer to he clutch, but will never strike as the belt cannot become tighter than its brand new length, only loosen over time. The chance of striking the fan clutch decreases with a longer belt, but your ability to properly maintain belt pressure on the serpentine system falls back onto your tensioner, which is the wrong answer, even if it is half an inch longer over the properly sized belt.

I hope that makes sense.

 

I returned the steeda FWIW. Didnt like the idea of increased stress welding on a cast piece. Besides, you're paying a bunch for a pulley you cant use.

 

Ball valve. My work is done here.

 

This I'm searching for to fit a tundra tb.

 

Could you tap some holes in the URD adapter?

 

Most certainly. I just know I can eff things up easily. Meth nozzles are tapered threads. I'm not sure how to do that. Advice welcomed.