Military style wheel

I dont see why the would they are a oem engienerred wheel to work with the discs on a fj a tacoma has a very similar setup.

 

These are dope, but yeah, like you've all said I'm worried about the weight.

 

I would say these are only for mall and pavement.

Oh the irony. I have busted more than my fair share of wheels. I have changed a fair number of true military wheels that have internal beadlocks like the wheels that these pretend to be - and you think these wheels are heavy - try ones with balls inside of them and an internal beadlock. I have witnessed a good number of folks bust a wheel in Baja races. The lip on these wheels would crack just by looking at a rock sideways. If you are planning on being offroad, these may look cool, but they will be a liability in my book.

 

Thanks for deciphering my autocorrect explosion ha!

 

I used to work for OshKosh making M-ATVs. After that, every tire is light...

I assure you it can fit 33s with no lift.

 

Lol I do it all the time easy to decipher..good luck with your wheel choice.

 

lol Oshkosh used to be a client of mine. They make serious equipment!!! ...and should we really consider a flimsy 3/16 cold rolled steel armor on our trucks!? lol

 

Thanks for the real talk HBMurphy.

It's a process, but I'm not impulsive, it'll take me a bit to pull the trigger on a set, and I still have a set of 19" BBS CH wheels from my previous car to sell first. The wiund is still deep from teasing in my car, but my Taco had been epic so far.

It's my first truck so I'm still learning the culture and everything.

 

@WraeDeoHed if you want the real "3rd world NGO" look, steelies are the way to go.

 

Understand completely. Just know this, if you are wanting the look - go for it. If you want the best wheel for you, live with your truck for a while and then determine what's right for you. There are many smart folks on here and one dumb one. Enjoy.

 

And if your wheel takes a hit where it may have taken out a relatively cheap cast wheel you are done. With steelies you can always bust out a hammer and put it back in place to get you back home. Not going to happen if you have a chunk of aluminum missing.

 

There is a great youtube video with that German guy and his big hydraulic press. The Alloy wheel holds on much longer but then CATASTROPHICALLY fails. The steelie gives earlier, but bends, and could potentially be repaired.

 

That's the truth for sure, I've hammered my share of wheels into rebirth.

 

It's safe to say that Rhino isn't about to replace Hutchinsons or Allieds on the battlefield!! lol

 

These are actually kinda nice...

https://www.fuelautotek.com.au/wheels/black-rhino/details/2716-4177/boxer-gunblack

 

Why do you think that the steel wheels are not ductile and able to deal with severe use?

 

I run OEM 16s on my truck.

The ones from 1st gen Tundras/Tacos/Sequioas are about 4.625” bs so they put a tire roughly flush and maybe even a hair further than the fender flare on my truck, as opposed to the 2nd gen spare wheels and I’m assuming the 3rd gen spare, that are like 5.25” bs.





Edit: I restored and repainted mine with Duplicolor ceramic engine enamel “Ford semi-gloss”.

 

Hutchinson beadlock.

 

I dig those, basic and functional.

 

Can be found cheap too. I got mine for $50 a wheel.