Fox Life!!! Anything Related to Fox Suspension

Mike from Accutune told me to stick with 600# springs with 160 pounds of bumper/winch/lights. I'm going to keep it at a 2" lift, so 1" higher than stock.

 

The stock springs may be too short to get that lift. I’m switching to a 14”x600lb with a SSO front bumper and winch. I can preload it more before coil bind and still have a smoother ride.

 

3" for sec. gen, 2" for 3rd. Gen, so at 2" how is that 1" over stock..??
My truck is a 3rd. Gen and they told me with an aluminum bumper with lights and sliders I could get 2 1/2" with stock 600lb. Springs. My question is that too high for my CV's ..??

 

No, people run 3” all of the time.

 

From what I understand, the 3rd gen is already lifted an inch stock.

 

Exactly....so these lifts provide 3" for the 2nd. Gen and 2" for 3rd gen...
I'm supposed to be set at 2.5" but kinda worried about CV angles.
I know people run 3" on 3rd gens but I don't know how bad there reliability and longevity suffers.

 

Sorry, just saw this. If you just need a little more lift the 14" long 600 is a good way to go. If you need more lift, or plan on adding more weight than a 650 may be necessary.

 

Here’s a updated pic

 

Just received my Fox 2.5 IFPs from accutune and im going to put them on a 19’ DCSB OR.. I’m wondering if I can clear a 285/75/R17 with a CMC and 2.5” of lift??.. I’ve heard you need 2.75” to clear. Which makes me wonder if the 13” 600lb coils are sufficient without too much preload and sacrificing ride quality.. is a 14” 600lb better suited??

 

I know the lowly 2.0's dont even hardly count, but for $670 I had to. Love them so far. Had to do my adjustments with the "no spring compressor" method and it worked out really well.

Just hanging in place after adjusting height. For reference that might help others...These came preset to 2" supposedly. I tuned the passenger side up 5 threads...and the driver up 7. Definitely seems like a full 3" now. (even though its on a FJC)



Wrapped in some neoprene covers. They were a little long at 18" so I tucked the bottoms under and zip-tied em.

 

If you go off road, you should cut/trim in order to be able to clear without any lift.

 

Your f@!*en with me right??
It’s 33.8” x 11.3” tire!! no way it’ll clear.. I think i might have to go with a 285/70/r17 with 2.5” to be safe. And i still might rub.. i just don’t know if i have the right coil.

 

Are they ext. travel? A longer spring will not provide more lift than a shorter, it’ll just provide less preload.

So no.

 

Yes extended travel. Just thinking that slightly longer=less preload=better ride at 2.5”-2.75” of lift?? Or am i doing the math wrong? Lol

 

Same spring rate per inch.

 

Ok i get that 600lb vs 600lb. But doesn’t less preload make for a better ride?? And wouldn’t a longer spring technically give you less preload at the same height?? Sorry for my redundancies but I’m new to this and I’d like to learn..

Thanks

 

There are plenty of threads in TW that cover this topic and I would best advise you taking some time to read up on them to better understand the subject. I am by no means an expert on the matter but I am learning.

I also have a terrible tendency to use the incorrect terminology when discussing "preload." You do not have "more or less preload" when you change the spring length, you only change the location of the preload ring. Technically speaking, you have the same amount of preload with a 13" spring as a 14" spring to achieve the same amount of ride height, assuming the spring rates are the same.

Read some of the Accutune Tech articles and maybe that will help explain better.
http://accutuneoffroad.com/articles/spring-preload-matters/

Most springs are linear, so if you were to "rate" a spring, you would find that for every inch, the load multiplies. 13" 600in/lbs spring at 1" is 600lbs and is 1200lbs at 2". Same is true for a 14" spring, therefore the preload to achieve the desired height never changes.

We get confused because so many people, myself included for awhile, believe that preload is directly related to the ring position on the body and not the compressed length of the spring.

 

Thanks after reading this, & the preceding posts on this thread.. it sounds like i need 650lb coils (not 14”) to achieve 2.5” without too much preload.. but to be accurate, I’ll call Ryan at accutune tomorrow... again.. he’s been good with me so far.. i just don’t want to bind these 600lb coils trying to get the height i want..

 

This whole preload thing is really hard to think about, especially on Tacoma's because of their space constraints. @desertjunkie760 got it right.

Ride Height = (spring compression due to vehicle weight) + preload

Any spring that is the same spring rate will compress the same amount and give you the same ride height at the same preload.
Higher rate springs give you less preload, but a stiffer ride.
Softer springs give you a smoother ride.

Tacoma's are over sprung (front and rear). So we want the softest springs possible on the coilovers.
We've had good success with the standard 13" long, 600 lb/in spring on 2nd and 3rd gen Tacoma's with light upgrades (sliders & skids) and reasonable lift heights.
For lighter upgrades or taller lift heights (2.5" +) we recommend a 14" long, 600 lb/in spring.
For people with steel bumper, sliders, steel skids, & winch we recommend a 650 (usually)
And for fully loaded Tacomas with all that plus RTT, bed rack, heavy gear load, & heavy passenger load then we start getting into 700 lb/in springs.

 

Question, why do you say 14”x600 spring for 2.5”+ lift over a 13” at the same spring rate? What does that do for the user if the spring rates are the same?