Anything welding

Sometimes it can be crossed underneath a layer if your not paying attention .

If you swap spools quite often but that is pretty easy to spot .

 

Hey all. Just wondering what you guys are using for respiratory protection? I'm a hobbiest just starting out and doing allot of practice. I made close to a hundred 3 inch lines tonight on a piece 1/8 bar. The miller p100 filter I was wearing does nothing as far fumes go. My small shop is pretty well ventilated but I dont have an extractor.

I was thinking about picking this up with the multi contaminant filters. Just wondering what yalls thoughts are?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001VXTWUY/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1_1_2?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1

 

My vote is 3m for respirators. That what has always been supplied to me and they never cause a fuss

 

45deg f3/f4 on 3/8” plate. I am NOT a stick welder but its good enough for my Journeyman ticket here in Alberta. Its rusted from water FYI.

 

I usually just light another marlboro.

#safety1st

 

It's great not having to carry a lighter...

 

Here’s my winter welding learning/ training project.

I’m in the planning stages of my 1946 American Bantam T3-C resto. Trying to keep the original look as much as possible.




Need ideas on how to mimic the rolled top edge. All four 16 ga sheet steel sides (left/right bedside, front side and rear tailgate) are rolled around a metal rod (about 1” diam.)

Here’s the profile of the right bedside:



I’ll be replacing the rotted tailgate and front gate using 1/8” sheet steel, reinforced with 1”x1” angle

Here’s the tailgate:



How do I mimic the rolled edge look? I won’t be able to roll the 1/8” sheet metal.

Here’s another view of the tailgate sheet metal rolled over a steel rod. This gate has seen better days. Note the torn part of the rolled over sheet steel



Input is extremely welcome.


@m603holden @Casper66 @stairgod @koditten and others

 

Rip a length of 1" conduit in half. Weld that to the sheet metal. Grind flat. On the plus side, working with that thin of iron will make welding thicker stuff a breeze.

The portable bandsaw works good for slitting the tubing. Gets kind of heavy after 10 feet, though.

 

The only time I used anything is when welding Galvanized or Copper it has been so long I am sure much better filters are on the market now .

I liked the replaceable filters different filters for different fumes

like cover plates they need replaced

It has to be comfortable under your hood and to wear all day long

 

@Subway4X4 I'd look into tubing instead of conduit. You'll be able to get thinner material. Easier to work with. But I agree with the process

 

How much of a budget ??

How good do you want it to look ??

Have a local sheet metal shop roll you pieces with enough of material to then weld and blend into the original just a thought

 

I say he just does it out of copper sheet and brazes it for style points.

Just use an old shower pan or something

 

Hmmmmm...

Ripping a pipe is gonna give me a “half round” look.

I’ll look into conduit and tubing.

Another idea: What about regular 1” galvanized pipe from the plumbing dept at HD? Is that fairly easy to weld to the 1/8” sheet metal?

That’ll look pretty, but It’s gotta be beefy enough to be able to to throw lumber and stuff on top. It’s a utility trailer , so I’ll put it to work to earn its keep.

Low budget is the name of the game. It’s gotta have the original “look and feel” of 1946 vintage, but it’s gonna be hauling mulch, gravel, lumber and a fishing kayak on occasion.

Can I just weld a pipe/conduit/tube to the top edge of the 1/8” sheet metal?

Like the bottom drawing of this pic? Is it gonna be strong enough?


Thanks guys for the input. Keep ’em coming!

 

Why does it have to be rolled? Could you just use some type of solid rod? That would be pretty strong too.

 

I’m not looking to roll it. That would cost me extra cash to get it done.

See bottom drawing of my pic. I was thinking of welding to pipe/tubing. But solid rod sounds like another option.

 

Sure, that way you could make it any size you want. Within weight reasoning for sure.

 

If that's the case just use some 1" box tubing and skin it with sheet after and call it a day.

 

Yep what @koditten said or maybe just leave the pip whole i will be stronger. Maybe look at 16ga for the tailgate and see if you think syrong enough 1/8” may be heavy. I gyess it depends on what your going to do with it. If toyr going to use it as a table or work surface then 1/8” may be what you want.

 

Which would be the strongest way of welding on the tube to the sheet?

A, B or C