ADS Off-Road Racing Shocks - Information, Pictures, & BS Thread

Well fuck these misalignment spacers. That’s not going to fit in a million years.

 

Wrong spacers sent out?

 

Don't know. I bought these used and had them rebuilt. PM'd the user I bought them from but they must have been used with aftermarket LCAs. Pretty much $1,400 paper weights right now. What a joke.

 

more money I have to spend. I'm almost at what a brand new set costs.

In addition to the misalignment spacers. I don't know how I'm going to get the reservoir to mount. Without it even tightened down the hose is contacting the coil and is terribly kinked. Never buying used coilovers again.

 

As far as the reservoir hose goes, you should be able to rotate the fitting clockwise just a little to push the hose away from the coils. And if needed, rotate the reservoir to help push the hose outward.

 

I understand the fitting, seen a lot of guys do that in here. Unfortunately it appears the hose is way too long, It's taking all my strength just to force the reservior to stay in the mount. It wants to be in the radiator currently

 

This happened to me as well. Make sure the mount is all the way under the sway bar adapter before you tighten then focus on the resi. You literally have to push it all the way forward until it is pushing into the plastic molding very hard.

You can loosen the neck at the shock head 1/8-1/6 turn and move it to angle upward and you will have max 1/4” of space between the hose and coil. Loosen the joint ever so slightly to get rid of the kink. Good luck man.

 

Well I took the whole coilover out and stuck the misalignments in a vice and pushed one of them in another 1/4 inch. The supposedly knowledgeable techs at DC shock services must not like pushing them in all the way because it's like that on both of them. and I fiddled with the reservoir a little to get it to a place where I'm comfortable, without loosening the fitting yet. Last thing before I can be done with the driver side is I have to reattach the tie-rod end back to the spindle, but the castle nut is just spinning the ball joint even with the tapered end forced in. At this point, not going to be done with 1 side before work. Seems like a whole lot more trouble than it should be.

 

Pshh sway bar? what is that? It's one of those ball joints where you used the tapered end to apply pressure so you can torque the nut. There's no allen on the end. I ended up whacking it with a hammer and it stayed. One side is finally on but not torqued. Only took 6 hours

 

It is weird in my mind how close it is as well, but at full extension it never touches

 

Nah, stock tie rod ends. It's the moog ball joint that's at the, smaller version of what's on the stock UCA. I dropped the shock out just fine, it just wouldn't fit coming out by being articulated between the tie rod and LCA. So I just swung it out of the way.

 

Whoa! What size tires? I’m at 2.8* with 32” (255’s) though

 

Oh.....I see

Must look intense!

 

Nice rig! Definitly beefy tires

 

When I ran 265’s my tire hit the hose to the resi, but that was before I noticed that my bracket wasn’t seated as far to the centerline of the truck as it could be

 

That happened the first time I had my suspension apart (the threaded taper of the ball joint). What was recommended to me when I went for help on TW and what worked like a charm was to start the castellated nut until things begin to spin and then I used a pry bar to put some upward load on the ball joint essentially wedging the taper and the castellated nut against the spindle. With one hand loading and the other ratcheting the nut it went back on. The next time I had my suspension apart I swapped to TC UCA's and got rid of that frickin' ball joint.....

 

Update: I had recently order the bump stop kit with the rear shackle flip kit from plastic guy. First I want to say that the quality is amazing but I did run into a couple issues when installing.
First issue being that the UBolts were not long enough to reach around my HD Dakar leaf pack, I had 1/4" of thread left when trying to screw the nut on, i would need at least another 2" of bolt. I tightened them down to see if there was any way of getting them to work with no luck. I was also in the process of installing my 3* shims (fixed my axle vibration btw) so I thought they might be the issue but I even pulled the shims out and tried to get them to fit just to see if they would. Which they did not.

Second issue being that the plate looks as if it will make contact with my reservoirs. I couldn't get a good picture of how close it was and I wasn't going to compress my shock since I was in a shop that charges per hour so I wasn't gonna waste precious time doing that. To me it looked as if it was going to contact my shock and I am not about to take the risk.

The fronts were easy to install and are good quality, I liked how thick the rear plates are and the quality of the bump stop but it just doesn't look like they will work with ADS shocks. Maybe I am wrong about them making contact but even so the ubolts are too short and I asked if the ubolts were long enough for HD Dakars before I ordered the kit. I will be asking for a refund but I just wanted to let everyone know that if they do order the ubolt flip kit to make sure you get an extended ubolt.



On another note there was a guy in the shop with a mall crawler with 40" tires and a 12" lift who was upgrading his 4.88 gears with about 1600 miles on them to 5.29 who sold me his gears for $250 front and rear. So those will be getting put in asap. Overall a good day at the shop haha also I will be putting a front winch bumper from Pro Line 4X4 on soon.

 

hey everyone,
I am taking advantage of Headstrong's inventory sale. I DON'T really want to drill into the frame to mount the clicker restis in the rear. The fixed piggyback resis are cheaper and don't require drilling. I don't tow much and rarely have much weight in the bed unless I'm camping. Any reason why I shouldn't go with the extended length regular piggyback rears vs adjustable? Is there going to be that much noticeable change in ride?

 

I have the click adjusters and love having the ability to tailor them towards what ever road or trail I'm on. I had lots help installing my suspension and don't remember any drilling but there very well could've been. I wouldn't sweat that part. I had to drill holes on the bottom of my frame for my C4Fab sliders.....I didn't like the thought of it at first but haven't given it a second thought since.

 

Do you notice a huge difference in ride? I trail ride so I am wondering if the extended piggyback rears without the clicker will be enough?