What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

I got it for 80 bucks new. Can't hurt. I know it works. UG will be for Frank.
Not impressed with the build quality of the UG either. Had one and it died. Not a hearty device. The scan gauge is much better built. But yes, smaller screen. Not any easier to operate a UG either.

 

The UG is much easier to operate and already has all universal OBDII fuctions programmed at least. Menu system is much more clearly laid out. I haven't had a UG break yet but I only own one thing with OBDII too. The SG isn't a bad device but it would be better at a $35-50 price point because package wise it's delivering half of the function of even lower priced devices

 

I'm a big fan of the UG. I think the display & interface is so much better than the SG. UG looks way better & has better mounting options. The SG is bulky & ugly IMO.

I got my first UG in a GB here in 2010 for $55 shipped. The UG Classic didn't support programmable gauges like the SG so no trans temp but that wasn't a deal breaker for me. Had it for 8 yrs with no problems. Then there's the reports of SGs melting the OBD port which is scary but could have just been isolated incidents.

Rather than send my UG Classic in for a software update, this year I purchased the UG MX in another GB for $70. Even though UG themselves did not recommend the MX for ISO-9141/1st gens, I purchased the MX hoping that I might be able to get trans temp readout working. UG themselves even said it wouldn't work but I had hope & took a chance anyway. I was a little bummed that I couldn't get trans temp to work like everyone else couldn't, that is until today.... working trans temp!

The updated MX has more preset gauges & more pages than my old Classic as well as more customizable user settings & features. It supports up to 6 pages now with 8 gauges per page which is more than I need/use. I only use 4 pages with 6 gauges per page. 8 gauges per page looks too cluttered for my preference but it has the ability if I ever want.

 

I cut off the rubber seal/boot on the old gear that is under the rag joint so I could get to the base of the rag joint right up next to the shaft. Few taps with a cold chisel and I could see it start moving. Few more taps and it was off. Couple new shiny places on the rag joint but no burs. Flushed it with a good solid stream of Blaster to remove any grit and it slid right on the new gear. Got everything connected back up. Should be good.

New dilemma though. I'm also putting in some new front shocks and LBJs while I already have the TREs and stabilizer Bar disconnected. Removed the old LBJ and thought I'd do the shock before installing the new LBJ. Well, as most of you already know, the lca "sprung up" soon as I pulled the shock out. Wasn't expecting that. So should I install the new LBJ and then the shock? Or shock first? Right now the old shock (with spring compressed) is getting a PB Blaster soak at the top nut because it still won't spin off and I have no more nub of the top of the shock to hold on to.

 

Absolutely fucking LOVE my UG.

The Distance to Empty gauge is super handy, and I use the intake temp as a ghetto outside temperature gauge. I also love the alarms that you can use and that I don’t need a code reader anymore.

 

Picked up a trailer last week but because of the endless rain in the south east I wasn't able to test it out until today.

Pulled the Taco around town for about an hour to get a feel for it. Everything felt very smooth and the hemi had no trouble with the weight.

I've read the TW towing bible but this is the first time I've hauled another vehicle so if any of you have real world advice for a novice; I'm all ears...

 

Only advice I have it to make sure the Taco is tied down next time you tow it.



Really tho, nothing too special about towing. Just remember to turn to opposite direction when backing up.

 

lol...I knew I was going to get for posting the pre tie down pic.

I ended up strapping to the axles but I've seen some people go straight to the bumper. Is this just a preference thing or is one truly better than the other?

 

Eh, parking brake is fine

 

Don't be scared to drive it closer to the tongue. You want the tongue heavy which it looks like its balanced good right now. Either way, that is the most important part besides brakes.

Getting an antisway ball hitch can help a LOT too because then you can really load up the tongue and it'll drive nice after you torque the bars down.

 

Tie down via the rear axle and use the factory tie down points on the frame in the front if you still have them.

 

Thanks.. My factory tie down points are gone but if they're above the suspension I suspect that using the recovery points on the bumper will essentially accomplish the same thing?

I wasn't real happy with the axle straps pinching the lca's so finding a better attachment point would be nice.

Maybe that's the reason I can give myself to S.A.S. (sorry wifey.... I had to do this for safety reasons)

 

Thanks Monte. We can always count on you for sound advice. I'm going to look into this.

 

yeah when you load it wrong you'll know between 45-60mph in a hurry haha

 

Have you started on Frankenstein resteration yet? Or just staring at him and the parts you need?

 

Did this today actually.

 

Paid. I'd have fucked it up royally and wasted a ton of time and money trying to do that.

 

Some things I will actually pay to have done by a professional, this is one of them.

 

Not yet. Still planning and waiting for a space to do it all. Which should happen in the next year finally.

"it turns out, extremely" - also Jeremy Clarkson

 

Ideally you want to let the truck's suspension do it's thing while on the trailer, so strapping to axles, tire straps, etc. are preferred. If you rachet down the recovery points, any time you go over a big dip or bump it'll unload the suspension, creating a little slack (or a lack of tension) in the straps, then when you come up it'll load the suspension again and create a dynamic load in the tie-downs. Just adds more stress to the system.