TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I wanted to hit the like button.

 

Rob I think 3" is your best bet. Did you just incorporate the stock MAF into a 3.5" piping? It might not be the right size for it, plus the air flow changed so the readings are all off. Maybe try and find a MAF thats compatible and uses 3.5" piping? I was looking into that Dobinson (or whatever its called) Snorkel and trying to integrate it into the URD piping with some sort of plug or cut out I could use if I'm gonna cross water, and put in a 4" in line filter as well.

@12TRDTacoma

 

Do we need a maf sensor from a tundra if we have the 76mm tb? Would that work/help?

 

I think only if you increased intake piping diameter. AFAIK the MAF is reading air intake. What boggles my mind is how a larger throttle body is gonna help if you don't increase intake diameter. I mean, you can only force so much air through the standard whatever 2.5" tubing most intakes come with.

 

What sort of MAF would be a better idea than what we currently have Jeff @VolcomTacoma? I am very open to ideas right now. Though this intake is definitely not playing nice with the current setup for sure.

 

I'm just spitballin' bro. Maybe a Tundra MAF? Maybe something out of a muscle car with larger intake piping? Question is, if you change the MAF, does the ECU compensate for the different readings and up the fuel? Or will it just look confused and go full potato and throw codes. This is why I suggest tuning before adding crazy mods to stuff. the ECU can only handle so much out of OEM parameters before it just says F it and potatos. Hopefully in the next year or two URD will have kinks out of the TRD Supercharger UCON tunes and I can just plug and play that bad boy (plug and play includes plugging in the new cam gears as well)

 

We do have 3" pipe with urd tcai. Most intakes only go this large. We are flowing comparable air volumes as a 5.7. Guess that's my take on why I have a tundra tb.

 

@12TRDTacoma I was in contact with ovtune this morning regarding v-2 I'll let you know the results. Maybe that could solve things??

 

Yes, MAF sensors are tuned to work with certain a certian size of tubing. It is taking reading of the velocity of the air and pairing that with the tube size and that is how it knows how much air is actually going in. That is why just a slight tubing size increase, even a couple mm can "lean" out the truck and give you more "power". That is the debate and differences in intake styles, which one can get the most air in and not mess with the sensor to cause codes. So tubing shapes and how they neck down is important. The box and filter size are more for looks and heat disipation on a natually aspirated vehicle. For us, it is probably getting closer to the limits of the box and filter, but I think we actually have quite a bit to go before any of us out flow the box and filter. The restriction in our system, as stated earlier by people making way more power than I, is the elbow going into the compression chamber. I have no clue if we could pull a MAF from a vehicle with a larger diameter of tubing and the ECU play well with it or not. But I bet the 5.7 is the best option if anything.

 

We should start investigating larger MAF's or stuff tuned for larger sized engine vehicle. The calibration for a MAF is actually built into the MAF itself and if you change out for a larger unit or one with different calibration you will be able to do more with it.

Someone actually upgraded the Tacoma MAF from a 1st gen to a Volvo one and they got stellar results from it. All they had to do was a re-pin on the connector and they were instantly seeing way better results.

 

Bet that would work. Might take lots of guess and see or some serious math to find a contender.

 

Just throwing this out there, have you tried looking into 5.7 Tundra CAI's and combine that with a Tundra MAF and see if you get better results?

 

Would be nice to find a helpful friend with a tundra to loan for an afternoon for testing

 

Turn your headlights on after disconnecting the battery & it’ll drain the reserve power in a few seconds. Just think what you can do with all that extra 2.8 minutes.

 

There is an issue with using a Tundra style MAF. They utilize a Hitachi type blade style MAF, and in doing so the connector is entirely different over the Tacoma. I am currently researching on possible mods that can be done to the MAF itself to see if anything can be physically done to compensate for larger intake piping.

The setup is cool, it's all super large and stuff but it means nothing if I cannot properly utilize the airflow increase though.

 

If the connector has the same number of wires performing the same functions a maf extension harness from urd could be sacrificed for making a temporary yet proper test. Just an idea.

 

Splice the Tundra MAF Connector onto your Tacoma MAF connector wiring then?

 

That's what I thought. T-tap off the tacoma wires to maybe a salvage yard tundra maf wire clip.

 

You would need to come up with a scaler to make up the difference in tubing diameter. Then change the voltage the ECU sees to make up the difference in diameter.

URD has a Split Second designed module that can be used to correct the MAF signal to account for different intakes. Not sure which Split Second module it is based on.

https://www.urdusa.com/urd-maf-sensor-calibrator/

https://splitsec.com/product-category/signal-calibrators/

 

For those that bought a steeda tensioner I hope it's working. Getting your money back from them is pulling teeth.