How to bleed air out of radiator

Just recently found a crack In my radiator so I plan on changing it out ASAP. I am wondering if anyone knows if there’s a bleeding screw to bleed out the air on a 2.7 engine or of another way I can bleed the air out of it. Thanks

 

Theres a drain plug/pet cock(spellcheck) on the bottom passenger side of the radiator. Not sure if it’s the same radiator as the 3.4 but that’s where mine is on my v6.

 

@ForumContributorsAreLife i apologize I fixed the post. I am looking for a way to bleed the air out of my radiator. I believe I have to do it after I replace the radiator.

 

OH, duhhh. Here’s how I do it.

1. Engine off

2. Fill radiator until full

3. Engine on

Coolant level should now go down.

4. Pour more coolant into the radiator until full

5. Squeeze upper radiator hose (engine still running)

6. Refill as needed.

Now close up shop and get ready for a short drive.

7. Go for a drive to get up to temperature, and when it’s up to temp (for thermostat to open) drive a little bit more. Shouldn’t need but 3-5 miles at most.

8. Top off radiator again as needed.

Monitor coolant for a few trips after replacing radiator.

I’m not a mechanic, but this is what I did when I did a coolant flush.

 

@ForumContributorsAreLife Awesome man. I surely appreciate it!!

 

I believe you just run it for a bit with the radiator cap off. Look for bubbles and refill as necessary. The cap is the highest thing on the system, so air will eventually work its way up there.

I did it in TWO steps!

 

Refresh the page I fixed a typo and added a comment between 6 and 7

 

I have a second gen but procedure should be roughly the same:

http://www.customtacos.com/tech.old...6toyrm/06toypdf/06rmsrc/rm2006ta/01600210.pdf

It's not bleeding like you would with brakes. Just kinda gotta run the engine to operating temp and then let it cool down and see if you need more coolant. Kinda self bleeding but all the info you need is in the link

 

Realllllly important! OPEN CAP BEFORE STARTING ENGINE WHILE ITS STILL COLD

 

Thanks for all the help everyone!

 

Holy shit, yeah this guys onto it. That’s why multiple people should input.

Sorry for not including this.

 

haha

Hopefully that's obvious, but yeah.

As you said, you don't really need to "bleed" the cooling system like you do the brakes. It's more like "burping" it.

 

Most vehicles these days don't have a bleeders anymore unless the radiator cap or fill point is lower than the coolant inlet on the engine. Factory tstat has a jiggle valve to help bleed air while filling (if you orient it it the way it's supposed to be) but if you use an aftermarket tstat that doesn't have one you should still be able to get the air out of the system, just have to get it up to operating temp so that the tstat opens.

 

Buy and use one of these. You're welcome.

$35 Lisle 24680 Spill-Free Funnel, Standard Adapters, 11 x 7 x 7"es

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A6AS6L...a0f2-a7b2fcde15af&ie=UTF8&qid=1544826062&sr=2

 

Or, as I learned from ChrisFix; drill a hole on the tstat and put the hole on the high side of whatever it’s orientation.

 

I hear if you drill holes in your radiator hoses, that improves cooling efficiency.

 

Depends on the engine. Most jiggle valves are oriented up but on the 5VZ-FE it's supposed to be oriented at 6'oclock. Doesn't really matter though if you have a hole or not, it's really only there to help initially bleed the air.

 

One note: before doing it make sure the cabin heater is turned on hot (vent does not need to run) - this way the valve between the engine and the heater core is open allowing the coolant (and air) to flow freely from the heater core to the engine where the air can be "burped" through radiator.

Also I would not hurry up on the drive. Let the engine warm up to the operating temperature while you monitor the coolant level in open radiator - you will see how much air is burped out and if you need to add more coolant. For adding the coolant I made a simple funnel using soda bottle, and shop towels + masking tape for sealing the bottle neck to the radiator fill up. It is hard to drive like that




And while doing it make sure you cap the hose going from the radiator to overflow.




See the post in my "building" thread https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...k-or-rysium-build.457350/page-5#post-17477499

Very important is to monitor the coolant level in overflow tank for a few days. The engine will still burp the air for few more days.

 

Anyone have a recommendation on a new radiator? Would like to purchase OEM but honestly can not afford it at the moment and need to fix the cracked radiator ASAP due to it being my DD.

 

Manual or auto? I think there is a difference in radiator and manual does not need to cool the ATF.