TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I wish we had dyno's more local around here. I would have had sheets a long time ago.

I'm actually using math that was supplied a while ago by @loginfailed

 

Yeah but parasitic loss, tire size, tire weight, rim weight, I mean there's so many factors. You can calculate at the engine as close as you think you can, but getting it to the street is where it counts. If you think you're at 380 at crank I would honestly say you might be 350 at the wheels at best. Your truck is just begging you for some proper tuning bro. Get a UCON or something better and I bet with all your mods you could probably be 400ish to the wheels.

 

That's the thing. The air going around the hole is the air being measured.

 

380 then factor in 15-16% parasitic drivetrain loss is usually how I calculate it.

There are people running UCON who have glitches, and OVTune is never present. Like I have a self tuner from OV but there is like 0 tech support. And then BD is totally off the table, so really the only stable platform which is never glitchy is the TRD tune. I am totally open to a tune, but it has to be the kind which utilizes the OE PCM similar to how HPtuners utilizes GMs and Fords PCMs.

 

The MAF measures air samples and then constructs a total grams/ sec calculation based on those measurements.

 

His math calculation, is engine hp. An accurate number, used in the calculation.

 

uh, yeah.

And opening up a hole to allow air to bypass the sensor will alter those readings. Which way do you want to go? Do you want the ecu to see more or less air than the motor is actually ingesting?

 

The URD setup IS flowing more air than the original combination. Anywhere from 40-50% more airflow from what I have observed.. this mod is simply allowing the sensor to see that additional airflow that is now there

All of my findings as of current after driving have shown me this is a valid mod. If I find a P0103 glitch code after this I will be EXTREMELY surprised. Besides. I run a 2.3 pulley. I am pulling in A TON more air than what stock initially intended. A 2.5 pulls in enough to trigger a P0103 code as well and glitch the MAF sensor. Apparently knock is a byproduct of these skewed readings as well.

 

@12TRDTacoma that's interesting. I still have my original maf that I removed assuming it was the issue. Recently changed some meth settings and things have greatly improved. Need to get up early to make some wot checks. Hope your change continues to bring good news.

 

If you still have it hanging around make the hole larger. Even with the 2.5 you will find pleasing results. Using that URD intake. Besides, that sensor is now "junk" anyways.

I will be driving a lot tomorrow so any sort of oddities should rear their ugly head there. Which I presume will be none.

 

7/16" did it right?

 

F it, bore that thing out all the way

 

At increments to see where things start to back swing.

 

Damn, you old....

 

Hahah yeah just joshin'. I'll try 7/16 and see what happens. I bought a spare so I can play around with it and see how the truck likes it. If it starts reacting badly I'll swap in the stock one and buy another $20 one to play with

 

Very good info @12TRDTacoma! Interesting test for sure.
My big question and one that @BillDaCat8 alluded to is the hp calculation based on g/s x 1.18 is based off the stock maf so since you altered the amount of air the maf "sees" the 1.18 may no longer be valid.

If you are running richer (no knock) then your maf reading is higher that actual airflow which is fooling the ecu to add more fuel....maybe.

 

After reading it sounds like you got lucky with the hole size you chose @12TRDTacoma. Not a bad thing at all. Does this put you more lean or rich as the revs climb? I'm curious as I'm not adding fuel as the guy in the article did.

 

That is correct good sir.

Hahaha.

That is the way I saw it. I still have the Denso known good unit and the swap would literally take 2 minutes to do if the truck didn't end up liking it.

It is possible the 1.18 is no longer valid. I have no way of knowing at this point really. I would actually really be interested in finding out how @loginfailed initially obtained those mathematical numbers. If they are indeed different based upon air sample tube bore size I could perhaps reskew that formula using the original percantage gain estimates.

The way I see it is the MAF requires a 0-5 volt signal to work correctly. If it is under or over reading due to the fact that less air is able to cross through the air sample tube and divert some of that into the hot wire resistors then you run into a situation of false readings, in which you open the door for knock, pinging, poor idle, and potential glitches (the P0103 code) to arise. This would translate to issues within improper tuning throughout all RPM ranges. This was actually evident based upon the LTFT corrections which are now present when at idle when running the FPR mod. A less lean than prior activity is now present at idle.

In doing this you are basically performing a calibration correction. This mod is not necessary to do if you have the means in correcting it via software tuning, (UCON, OVT etc.) but since the TRD tune is limited in its capabilities, doing this corrects it on the hardware side.

It was actually a carefully calculated correction. Initially intended to compensate for the 16.66% (or .5") increase in intake ID tubing at the MAF tube. After I reverted back to OE size, I kept the MAF intact just to see how it would react and the computer really liked the newly reported readings apparently. So as of right now I enjoy the benefits of a MAF that is "16.66% larger" over OE design in the same packaging that OE presents. The change is so minute to the bare eye that you would never know unless you compared one to the other side by side.

One ofthe most methodical yet simplistic mods I have ever done with (up to this point) stellar results.

 

So I wonder if waiting on this would be in my best interest since my ovtune program is in. Or who knows, might improve that too.

 

Oh @White lightning boosted btw... this puts me in the desired air fuel ranges under boost as the RPM's climb. Make no mistake fuel dump is still present at part throttle application if I hang onto a certain pedal position too long due to the open loop OE design with FPR mod configured, but it seems to have stabilized out my AFR's a little more than previous once the PCM takes over fuel control in closed loop under boost. Wide open throttle still hangs out at about 11.5-11.8 as it always has.

Technically you are adding extra fuel, as you spray meth.. lol.