Tacoma gas door replacement/fuel door repair due to rust

I would suggest not using rivets. A ss 1/4x20 bolt (button head) will work nicely and if the problem repeats itself (hopefully not) you can avoid drilling out the rivets again. Accessible from the bed when you remove the pocket......

 

I'm sticking with riveting due to it came that way from factory, and the rivets didn't go bad. My lack of one or two drops of oil a couple times a year on the lid hinges put me where I'm at.

 

May I know where you ordered the prime and clear coat spray?

 

https://www.automotivetouchup.com/

 

Got it. Thanks.

 

Finally took my 2012 (purchased new 11/2011) Tacoma to the body shop for the new fuel cap lid cover painting and installation. Body shop cost: $106.22, Toyota OEM fuel lid assembly: $33.37 for a grand total of $139.59 Very pleased with the Indy body shop attention to detail and matching of the 7 year old plus paint. It's 35 degree's out now so sorry if pictures look a little wet. I washed vehicle since it's going to be a warm 50ish day, finally!

 

Looks like I’m going to have to order one of these... stopped for gas last night and the fuel door would only open half way. I tried to push it open and it wouldn’t budge. The hinge is completely rusted at the bottom and all bent out of shape. I’m gonna spray it with PB Blaster and hope I can open it without breaking it the next time I need gas.

 

Does anyone know the part number for the clamp on the door itself that latches around the 'nub'? It's on the left side of this image. My door is somewhere on the side of the interstate and pretty sure the new door won't include this.

EDIT - Not the nub that is circled here in red, but the latch that engages the nub

Is it
77367-35010 ?

 

BTW - That paint looks great!

 

Anyone find the part for the nub?

Also, are these the correct rivets?

$11 Genuine Toyota 90269-06017 Fuel Tank And Tube Rivet

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MBQRIWY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A1PHTYL3YTS5ZF&psc=1

 

I don't know, but you certainly don't need 12 of them. If you have a dedicated bolt place near you, like Fastenal, or something, Get a couple 1/4" stainless buttonhead bolts and NON stainless nylock nuts. That is if you have an early 2nd gen with the cubbys over the wheelwells. If not, or you don't want to go that route, stop by a body shop with a 6pack of beer and have them pop in a couple of big daddy rivets.


Some people are probably wondering why a NON stainless nylock. Well, if you put a stainless nut on a stainless bolt without antiseeze compound, the threads gall and the 2 parts become permanently 1.

 

Yes, I had to buy the entire pipe shield to get the little nub since mine was missing too. I tried to just take the new nub and put it on the old pipe shield but the thing wont stay in the old shield. So I will have to replace the whole pipe shield with the new one I go. Anyone know how to remove the pipe shield?

Also, make sure you get the right fuel door.
77305-04904 is for the short bed.

$44 77305-04905 Fuel Filler Lid Sub-Assembly

77305-04905 is for the long (regular) bed.

 

Hi guys I ordered the door and the primer and paint along with the clear coat. I Was wondering if I can just start to prime and paint it, or do I need to use a fine sandpaper on the door? Oh and also, how many coats of paint did you guys use? Thanks in advance.

 

Tagged for future refs.

 

Thanks to those who originated and contributed to this thread. Very useful. Just completed mine so I figured I would add a few pics and some info. I installed using 1/4-20 stainless screws with washers, lockwashers and hex nuts. Getting to the back side was fine to get a small ratchet back there and snug things up. When you order the door definitely order the latching clamp that is mounted to the door as well. From your local hardware store a new short 6mm screw to mount it to the door. For the paint I ordered the primer, base coat and clearcoat from automotivetouchup and it worked out well. Here's some pics including a pic of the bedliner cubby so you can see the clips.

 

In the process of installing a new fuel door, and wanted to share a heads up for anyone else doing this:

The replacement fuel door I purchased appears to have three layers of primers, black at the bottom, then a silver layer, and then another black layer. None of these layers adhere well to each other. I can scrape/chip thru each layer with a credit card, down to the bottom layer of primer which is actually durable. I had to scrape off the top two layers, sand the base primer layer, and then paint it.

 

Guess I get to do this now.
Stupid flimsy little hinge.

 

my door i have to keep adjusting the spring every so often

 

Newbie member here so I apologize if this was mentioned...but where specifically could I find the hinge and fuel door for my white 2009 Toyota Tacoma? can I drop by an Auto Zone? specific website for parts? I've got a top connection but it won't be long before that rusts loose too. Thanks in advance!

 

They have them at the dealer or on Amazon for around $15 last I checked. Primed, will need paint and clear.