I threw 2 crank rods 1GRFE @ 185k

With the iridiums, they are designed for 100k, last I read from Denso. Could have changed though.

 

Iridiums can be consistent up to 100,xxx miles. Others consistent up to 30,xxx miles.

 

Not sure if what I read was Toyota documents but I go by 60k.

 

@Torspd my truck just started to shred a brand new serpentine belt on one rib...... Any suggestions? Something not aligned correctly with pullys/idlers?

I just happened to hear an abnormal ticking/flap when I pulled in the driveway. :Frusty:

 

You got it 1 groove off on 1 or more of the pulleys. I've seen it before.

 

I'm pretty sure I had it correct. I've been wrong before. Good thing they're cheap and less work intensive than a motor swap

 

You should be able to see if there's and exposed groove on 1 of the pulleys on the opposite side from the shreded belt.

 

IE: see which pully/rib it was rubbing/interfering on?

 

That happens when the edge of the belt is running off the edge of a pulley. So, which ever pulley it is, you should see an exposed groove.

The edge of the pulley is taller than the pulley ribs and it just slices off the edge of the belt.

 

Putting my good eye on it now. From what I can see it's possibly a c hair off on the ac pump towards the front of the truck. Just enough to cause this. The gap at the back is where the belt separated.

 

I can't tell much from the pic, but I think the alignment would have to be pretty far off to shred a belt like that.

 

I think you are right. I may have 60k in my mind because that's roughly how old my truck was when I got it and it had the original plugs in it still.

The FSM says every 120,000 miles for the 1GR plugs. I forget how 30k or 60k or whatever it is was determined. Is there maybe a maintenance schedule? I don't see it in the PDF of my owner's manual.

ETA: Figured it out. The 30/60/90 interval comes from the emissions control warranty, which states spark plug replacement every 30k.

 

Do all of the idler pulleys spin freely?

The trickiest alignment comes when routing around the water pump pulley. Easy to get groove off. Once the new one is on, double check from underneath.

P.S. I only run a five rib belt. Now yours is more racetruck like mine.

 

Well the belt shit out another rib, wadded up behind the crank pully and took out the front main seal.

 

Oh shit. As least only that seal. When it takes out the power steering seal, that is a whole other wad of problems.

 

Damn, that sucks. Hopefully it didn’t wrap around the water pump too. You must have something mis-aligned. Might try to put a ruler or straight edge in there and check things out one pulley at a time.

I know this is terribly obvious, but is the belt routed properly? I.....I mean a friend of mine.....has tried to put the belt on wrong around the idler to the left of the water pump. Never ran it, but it is possible to misroute the belt. Usually easy to see once you try to slip it on the tensioner. If my friends memory serves him right, the belt will contact itself around the water pump.

 

Crank seal wasn't too bad. 2 beers. My tq wrench doesn't go above 140ftlbs so I maxed it out and went even more. Put some loctite on it so hope it holds. Hopefully that's the end of my problems and it's smooth sailing from here.

 

So, did you figure out why it shreded the belt?

 

Maybe I didn't have it lined up correctly? I went with a narrower belt this time. 6ribs vs 7, they didn't have a 5. Made sure everything was lined up and running to the front with a gap in the back. It seemed like it was shredding on the back side of the pullys. Everything spins freely and I didnt observe anything with a wobble to it.

 

I wonder if its possible for it to walk over to proper alignment after it shredded the edge off?