Power Steering will not Bleed

System will not bleed the air after many hours of vacuum pumping...new rack, power steering pump, new high pressure line and reservoir. No visable leaks and system holds pressure.
I am loosing my mind!

 

Is it reasonable to assume that the air will bleed out on its own via just driving?
Whine is only at higher RMP not idle...

 

Have you tried jacking the front end up and turning the wheel from full lock to lock several times?

 

If you are having issues bleeding the system I would assume either the pump, or the high pressure line internal check valve is bad.

 

Continued running just makes the air bubbles circulate round and round. Run it, shut it off, wait for the bubbles to float to the top of the reservoir, run it, wait, run it, wait, etc.

 

Could the fluid be the issue?
Running https://www.walmart.com/ip/Valvolin...MImaKNzJ6o3wIVCoGzCh0CSgxgEAQYASABEgLAm_D_BwE

 

Damn, I really don't want to have to test that theory...but I am running out of patience and options.

 

Impatience is the last thing you ever want to have in these sort of situations because that same impatience leads to desperation.

The issue is not the fluid. As standard Valvoline ATF is good stuff.

What brand of parts did you use?

 

Agreed.
OE Re-man from O'reilly's

 

There is your problem right there. Remove the pump (the high pressure line is even suspect, but lesser than the two evils of being bad) and re- replace with a quality remanufactured unit.

 

It was what was available...can you recommend a quality re-man?
Whats strange is that the whine is the same as before I replaced everything...a bit better but the same none the less.

 

I think someone asked but have you jacked the tires off the ground, remove reservoir cap and turn steering wheel lock to lock? I’ve always for this and it works for me. I even start off without the engine running and then start it after turning a few times.

 

Nothing really strange about it. O'Reilly's and Autozone carry garbage parts. All either made in China, or junkyard takeoff's which have been hot tanked, bead blasted, slapped with new packaging labeled "remanufactured" and then resold for hundreds over what it cost to "rebuild" the units. In their defense the majority of brands that you find nowadays have been bought out by the same central manufacturer based out of China who is producing the same junk parts, so even if you buy XY brand, you are still getting the same questionable quality that XYZ brand makes as well. There is no pride of craftsmanship anymore.

I always recommend OE for major parts like those. Buy once, cry once.

If not available for whatever reason I recommend you buy Maval for power steering units, they are usually who build the steering components for Toyota. Electronics go to Denso.

Stick to OE manufacturer's for the big, difficult to replace or access items.

You need to properly identify where this noise is coming from, however, throwing the kitchen sink at the truck may often make matters worse and leave you in a worst position than the one that you first started in.

He shouldn't have to. If he can't bleed the system with the tires on the ground by simply turning the wheel then he has defective components.

 

Countless times, including a vacuum pump and the Toyota manual system;
BLEED POWER STEERING SYSTEM (a) Check the fluid level. (b) Jack up the front of the vehicle and support it with stands. (c) Turn the steering wheel. (1) With the engine stopped, turn the wheel slowly from lock to lock several times. (d) Lower the vehicle. (e) Start the engine. (1) Run the engine at idle for a few minutes. (f) Turn the steering wheel. (1) With the engine idling, turn the wheel to the left or right full lock position and keep it there for 2 to 3 seconds. Then turn the wheel to the opposite full lock position and keep it there for 2 to 3 seconds (step A). (2) Repeat step A several times. (g) Stop the engine. (h) Check for foaming or emulsification. Especially, if the system has to be bled twice because of foaming or emulsification, check for fluid leakage in the system. (i) Check the fluid level.
3. INSPECT FLUID LEVEL (a) Keep the vehicle level. (b) With the engine stopped, check the fluid level in the oil reservoir. If necessary, add fluid. Fluid: ATF "DEXRON" II or III HINT: Check that the fluid level is within the HOT level range in the reservoir tank. If the fluid is cold, check that it is within the COLD level range. (c) Start the engine and let it idle. (d) Turn the steering wheel from lock to lock several times to raise fluid temperature. Fluid temperature: 75 to 80°C (167 to 176°F)

 

Well shit you’ve got the procedure down I’d say!!! Here’s where I’d go next: verify no leaks on suction side of pump and if this has all happened recently I’d let it sit with the cap slightly off and let it sit to make sure if any entrained air will release from the fluid. Could be a check valve of some type and depending on the type of check valve it doesn’t take much to hold it open. Don’t know enough about the internals of these to say either way.

 

Do you have fluid circulation at least?

I'm sure the noise you are hearing is a whine when you turn the wheel isn't it?

 

Good circulation. Noise is only during acceleration (higher RPM) silent at idle and turning wheel...only a faint noise at full lock.
I get a bit more noise when I have the system under vacuum pressure, but thats expected.

I am leaning toward a bad "new" part. Either the pump or a check valve in a line...it better not be the rack

 

Sort of sounds like a bad PS pump bearing which is unable to hold its own under higher loads.

Which is, admittedly incredibly common on these "reman" units. *flaming banana* Haha.

 

Guess I'll be pulling it out...

 

I kinda skipped through the thread but is the fluid still frothy? It should be normal color atf with no pink bubbles. If it is it may have a small leak on the return side of the system. That will suck air in, the fluid will never settle down and the pump will whine. Check the hoses and clamps really close.

But if the fluid is normal dark color and the pump is still whining then yea, it could be a bad pump