Long Travel BS Thread

For the hose that runs to the charcoal canister, I just replaced it with a new piece of hose in the same size. I think it was 5/8" ID. The local NAPA didn't have fuel line that size so I bought heater hose. I broke the secondary charcoal filter getting the hose off, so I ran it straight to the main charcoal canister. For the small breather line, I just bent the metal line, so it's a straighter run and relieved the tension on the hose.

 

I just chopped mine and added about a 4" section of fuel line to each hose.

 

Do you know what size? I’d like to buy it before I take it off so I can just swap right then.

 

Just take some calipers or a tape measure and measure the two hoses. I think one was 1" and the other 1/2" but I don't remember and it's dark and cold outside to check.

 

Why do you think I’m inside on my warm couch asking others to do it for me! Haha. I’ll have to do that tomorrow

 

Well today's original game plan was to solid mount and gusset the lowers since I'm tired of alignment going out.

Checked the alignment before starting since my steering wheel got donked crooked after my last rip through the forest. Castor and camber are spot on, so apparently it's just toe that I keep fucking up. I mean I do have the tc cam tab gussets and after my last alignment I tacked the cams in place so I'm glad they are doing their job finally.

So new game plan is to just gusset everything up, throw some heavy tacks on the cams that will still allow me to remove the lowers and keep them in place and call it good. Just need to find someone with a lathe since my tie rod extensions are not allowing me anymore adjustment. Gonna take 1/2" off and wait for the rack to blow out and then upgrade.

 

Hey, So im probably gonna jump up to 3.0s in the rear, talked to my shock guy he said it should be fine. What do you guys think I know a couple of you have ran them before with dmz. Keep in mind I have a full bedcage in the back and 2 full size spares so have a good amount of weight in the back.

 

I say go for it, of course plenty of tuning will be needed.

 

Yea tunning is a Given, probably going to try and teach my self

 

You might need to do some clearancing for the 3.0 depending on your mounting location. Other than that, 3.0 would be benificial (in my opinion) with the extra weight.

 

Stuffed tacos are the best Also, they are having to trim up the glass for clearancing, and also the wheel wells a bit. I’m surprised that not a lot of people do this. Out of all the LT trucks I look at, I’ve only seen a couple do something like this...

 

Yea Ill probably need to trim the inner fenders a bit, but other than that I think I'll be fine,

 

I was thinking more of the frame side or tire side. I’ve heard of people notching the frame so can mount the shock more inboard and away from the tire to help clear. I know you have to run spacers to clear the 2.5’s.... could be wrong though.

 

My frame is already notched and I'm running spacers 1.5s or 2s idk I forgot which ones lol

 

Well shit, probably should have asked that lol

 

Ive done it for the some Lsk trucks I have built in the past, it sucks cutting that stuff out and remaking new platework its a lot of nasty work.

 

Yeah it looks like it. Especially moving around the internal components around the wheel well. Maybe that’s why it’s not done much

 

Mine is just self clearancing for now lol. Though when I start on the cage/ engine cage this spring, I'm just gonna chop the whole core support out. All the clearance you need

 

DO IT

 

It definitely makes for lots of room.