Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

To clarify, they’re modifying my stock driveshaft. Not a true from scratch build.

 

Yeah I understand that.

 

Chris, who I just quoted on the last page or so, did what you’re suggesting...or atleast that’s what his receipt shows.

The shop I’m using seems to say the receipt doesn’t show the entire picture (in their opinion atleast) as those parts come together with atleast 2 issues.

We’ll see what they do now that they have mine and will be fiddling with it. Maybe they’ll surprise us and it’ll be exactly like Chris’s and have no issues.

 

oh derp.... shoulda read your entire post.... o well. Yes that was the post interesting the issues you ran into with the whole process.

 

Interesting let’s us know how this works out
I was going to go the same route as Chris
I think @mountainmonkey may have did the same as @crolison after he pretzeled his DS but I’m not sure.

 

Well, got back to town and picked up my rebuilt driveshaft and got it reinstalled. I can very happily report; all drive line vibrations are gone

Here she is:




Basically, what they built me was indeed Chris's ( @crolison ) setup, exactly. They kept the stock splines and the only way in which the shaft is "weaker" is the substitute of 1310 u-joints in the double cardan joint versus the single 1330 that was there. I can live with that.

"What happened to those two big issues with that setup they claimed, Jake?". Turns out, whatever Tacoma shaft they grabbed, to show me the spline fitment issue, was either not a 2nd gen shaft or was very worn. He said he wanted to double check fitment before going to the Nissan spline shaft and he found the yoke fit perfectly on the stock Tacoma splines. As suspected though, they did indeed build a spacer on the splines so it'd sit more towards the end of the shaft and allow proper clearance with the u-joint, which eliminated the second issue.

Here's the spacer:




Since it's the same breakdown as previously posted with Chris's setup, here's some additional photos just for sharing.

Ignore my Ford Ranger center bearing, since it won't look like the stock Tacoma bearings.






Jake

 

Nice, well done.

 

Ok so now to either order one that's premade or to get mine retubed and do this just need to find the part #s again. Also dilema is the driveshaft shops around here seem to be hit or miss these days sometimes they do good others they suck.

 

@jmanscotch do you have a parts number breakdown or synopsis I can add to the first post to help others? Gimme everything you used and I will add/quote it to the original post so it doesn't get lost in the pages here. Ideally, I'd like to get a very easy to relay set of design principles with part numbers that someone can then take to a drive shaft shop and say, "Build me this." and have it made. I may even give Tom Woods a call and see if we can get them to create a "one click order" offering for the website to take the guesswork out for people who don't have a shop near them.

 

This will also work.
http://www.driveshaftsuperstore.com/Low_rider_drive_shafts.htm

 

but what about us Trail Limos we always get left out

 

You linked direct toyota ones previously

 

Y'all will need to take your own measurements for length. The parts will all be the exact same but the overall length of the shaft needs to be different. That being said, it should be the same as the stock shaft length, so that should be easy to figure out.

 

I meant the TW direct order or the other ones that were linked.

 

Ahhh, gotcha. Well that brings up a good point. Tom Woods won't build a single piece shaft for the trail limos because it's too long to be a single unsupported shaft. If we can get them all the information on what needs to be made for a pre-built two piece shaft with the double cardan joint, we can easily adapt that to a design for the long bed since the center support bearing will eliminate the issue of it being too long with a critical speed being too low.

Worth a shot at least, right?

 

He doesn't have the tooling to build a single piece shaft was my take (or balancer). The back half of my old CCLB F350 was around as long as the whole TL shaft. But it was like 6" dia or something like that.

Yeah if all we need to do is get really any good DS manufacturer the measurements for both the DCLB and the AC/DCSB trucks to start making click to shafts I'm willing to do the leg work for mine. I need a retube badly anyways.

 

Here's the breakdown they show, I'll note it too doesn't have details on the spacer that was installed, so that's going to be a piece that's missing from the parts list.

I will admit, I'm not thrilled about some of the parts used. I was told they'd be using Spicer parts. Instead, I got zero Spicer and lots of Neapco and a Power Industries yoke. Having no familiarity with these brands, I did some reading on them and don't see a big issue, they're not "crap" parts, but for the $465 price tag, and what we had discussed in then shop, I was expecting 100% Spicer parts and plan to discuss this discrepancy with them sometime soon.

With that in mind, I think most would be more comfortable with Spicer parts in their driveshaft build, so I'll simply list the Spicer part numbers for the breakdown as there's no difference in the parts used, except brands used.



The order in which these parts fall in line, starting from the transfer case and working towards the rear axle;

Transfer case output flange > stock 1330 u-joint > Front section of rear drive shaft > Center bearing > Custom spacer that slips on spline shaft > 2-4-4341 Yoke > 1310 u-Joint with needle grease fitting > 211355X secures u-joint in place and centers the CV joint (and has needle grease fitting) > 2-26-487 Double Cardan joint center > 1310 u-joint > 2-28-2977X yoke welded to > Neapco 5368 (a 3" to 3.5" adapter) > welded to flipped and shortened rear driveshaft section > stock 1330 u-joint > differential.

Hope that helps.

Jake

 

Why aren't we able to use a 1330 DC joint? I missed that part I think. Just thinking out loud here is there any way to bump up to a 1350 joint for all of them???

 

I asked the same question (wanting to keep them 1330, not upgrading them) and was told there isn’t a double cardan joint on the market that’d house that size and fit the 3.5” diameter driveshaft.

The front half of the rear driveshaft is 3” in diameter. The rear half is 3.5”.

The biggest double cardan joint available (without oversizing presumably) only fits a 3” shaft, and thus a 1310 u-joint, which is why they have to use the 3” to 3.5” adapter on the rear of double cardan joint where it butts up to the rear half of the driveshaft.

 

Found this with a little searching so it is possible to do a 1330 DC joint
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/spicer-2-28-1177-weld-yoke-1330-3-x-065/