Quest for a build with minimal to no irreversible alterations.

I thought I would use them. I was a youngster... and a dumbass back then.
I am still fun! Still drink beer. Still ride mountain bikes about 40 miles of singletrack a week. Let's go!

 

Well said.

 

I’m a fan of Meso stuff. I don’t have an issue with any of the lighting personally, so I’ll leave it alone other than replacing the headlights with a couple of led kits for piece of mind and longevity. I do get what you mean with certain things like that. I had the same issue with my bike originally and replaced some lighting accordingly.

 

Just remember they aren't perfect from the factory either. Toyota hasn't found some magic centered amazingness or anything. Changing the gear ratio for bigger tires in essence negates the stresses of increasing tire sizes. A little bit more and it makes most driving easier for the components upstream of the axles, unless you find dumping the clutch in 1st gear at 60mph a fun activity. Bearing life is debatable but it makes sense that it would happen although it's not a large complaint from what I've seen. Some folks get disheartened over time I guess with modding, perhaps the quality of work they did was poor, perhaps they have shit luck, maybe they aren't a good judge of when to apply the gas and the brakes. Whatever the case may be don't be afraid to break the norms and be more than a mild salsa grade modder.

 

It’s all a gamble. I know that certain things can’t be perfect out of the gate due to keeping them in a price bracket, but not knowing where those shortcuts are to replace them with better components is the fun part. About the only thing I’ve found odd is the brakes seem pretty rough, but I am still in the break in period. It was awesome to hear the engine sounding like a diesel in the beginning, then slowly getting to the point where it’s almost silent. Engines are one of the most interesting things to me, so it’s a thing.

 

If you have the new V6 it should occasionally sound like a diesel when it cleans the GDI injectors. Having built an engine or two, they are something of a marvel though I must say.

 

Indeed. I’m waiting for a linked pdf of the service manual to come out to download. Shit’s like porn. I’ve had two, and still enjoy clicking through them. My car’s version has been the best at just over 2000 pages of information. Beats the shit out of Chilton.

 

How many volumes are there for a third gen. My land cruiser is like 4 books, my taco is 2 or 3 depending on if you buy the one for the trans or not. My Nissan 300zx is just one measly book, and then an entire engine rebuild add on deal.

 

Can you still get physical books? I have the Toyota fsm’s for my first gen, and would like paper in hand for this one.

 

I'd assume so, most techs like to have the book when working on the car.

 

Really? Figured they were just facebooking hard on their iPhones the whole time

 

Those techs haven’t experienced the joy of having the same manual on a tablet with clickable links. Plus one tablet will hold a ton of manuals, kept in a lifeproof case is worry free (no dirty meat biscuit prints on pages), and can keep it in the tool box.

 

That’s when they get hit with a tool.

 

Looking at the Pro suspension, plus thinking about what you were saying, the Pro suspension is dead on to your recommendation. I opted out of getting the Pro because of the leather, badging, exhaust, etc. However, replicating the Pro suspension may not be a bad place to start, but maybe a 17” wheel. Shouldn’t break the bank, plus there are some components I could just do beefier. It would be a great mix to be more capable, have a 33” tire (for now), and not give up reliability since the drivetrain is the same. Thoughts?

 

17" wheels are a smart choice cause you can get more c rated tires and they're cheaper than 16" usually

 

Took that note from you. Something I hadn’t given much thought previously. Now I need to find a set that will be 1 inch wider, but have the correct offset. Whereas doing the cmc may be “normal”, I want to avoid it. I could do it and have good welds, but if I can achieve the same result without it, that’s where I want to be.

 

You might be able to avoid the CMC with SPC upper control arms if your willing to adjust them forward at the cost of positive caster (trucks steering will get heavier and tend to follow grooves in the road more).

Sorta a catch 22 if you don't like the CMC. I have a first gen so our cab moutns are well placed up to 37" tires haha. Did a CMC on a friend's second gen though and it's pretty minor cutting.

 

Caster is a dangerous game. That’s where I get concerned about other components. One wheel slightly further forward than another causes hell. Whereas I know getting it dialed in perfect will always be a challenge, purposefully screwing with the alignment is not in my ideal situation. I’d be more apt for the cmc route, but we know how I feel on that.

 

Caster is the least important of the alignment values, it won't be cross caster though, you'd adjust both forward equally. Unless your alignment tech adjusts one higher to help conquer a crown in the road (I do this on my 300zx to keep the effects of the lowered roll center from showing, its a legitimate solution and many alignment shops do it by default)

 

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