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Hi Beam Problems

Discussion in 'Lighting' started by BradleyJ33, Jul 6, 2010.

  1. Jul 6, 2010 at 5:32 PM
    #1
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    Ok, I had a thread previously and now am expounding on the original question. So I had a kit from DDM Tuning, 35W slim ballast kit, in my headlights. Had a ballast problem, got it swapped out, no big deal. Then one night, my headlights stopped working altogether. Tracked the problem to the relay, they sent me a new one, low beams worked, but highs would not. So I said screw it, I'm gonna do a retro-fit. Got the FX-R stage 3 kit from TRS with the morimoto ballasts and bulbs, H4 wiring harness, and FX-R projectors. Got them installed without issue, until while testing, the driver side high beam stopped working. Swapped the whole assembly to the passenger side, worked great, but not on driver side. Checked all my connections and fuses and everything. No dice. Matt sent me a new relay for the wiring harness, which caused my drivers low-beam fuse to blow in my under-hood fuse box. Never would work. Original relay that came with the kit still working both side low beams, passenger high beam. When I plug the stock headlights back in, both highs and lows work fine.

    My question is: Is there something in the wiring that could be causing these relays to go bad on my highs? I've grounded my driver side to the main ground where the battery is grounded, and I know the ground is good. The only fuse that should matter in the whole set-up is the driver side ones, b/c that's where the H4 harness is plugged in. All my fuses are good though. Anybody got any suggestions? :confused:
     
  2. Jul 6, 2010 at 6:15 PM
    #2
    lookylookitzadam

    lookylookitzadam Retrofit Club!

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    I would suspect its the wiring harness on the drivers side that connects to the drivers side shield actuator.

    Check:

    1. Are the two wires that connect to the actuator for the HB shield connected? Polarity doesnt matter.

    2. Do you have voltage at the actuator wires? hook up a multimeter or test light to those leads.
     
  3. Jul 6, 2010 at 6:16 PM
    #3
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    yeah, I checked those wires with a multimeter, but I wasn't sure about the setting I should have it on, AC, DC, etc. or the # on the dial. However, the reading I got on it was always the same on both sides no matter what the setting I tried...
     
  4. Jul 7, 2010 at 8:16 AM
    #4
    lookylookitzadam

    lookylookitzadam Retrofit Club!

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    Multimeter should be in DC mode. Your battery provides direct current. (DC). The numbers on the DC section just move thr decimal point. Yu should have something like dc 20 which is what you want. This gives you two places on either side ofthe decimal.

    In any case, you need to connect your multimeter leads to each of those wires and I believe with headlights on it registers 0v. Throw the highbeam switch to on, and you should see something around 12v +/- If you don't see voltage there that is your problem.
     
  5. Jul 7, 2010 at 8:25 AM
    #5
    OCTaco

    OCTaco Well-Known Member

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    Dude just return the item and buy some Xenon. I can get you an 8k kit for $90 delivered, with a 12 month warranty.
     
  6. Jul 7, 2010 at 2:45 PM
    #6
    yosh2000

    yosh2000 Well-Known Member

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    ^ Dude...do you even know what youre talking about?!! what are "Xenon"?! he already has HID, how is "Xenon" better?!! also, he has a projector retrofit, he just cannot throw in your cheap, crap, PNP bulbs that use a stupid bulb actuator for the highs!! and 8k will not give the best light...4.3k will! if your going to try to pimp your stuff, at least have some sort of clue what youre talking about!!

    now to the OP...just to clear up...the exact same projector works perfectly (highs and lows) when plugged into the pass side, but the high will not work when installed on the driver side, correct?

    find the voltage being supplied to the high beam solenoid on the projectors on each side to ensure youre getting enough to actuate them. im guessing that your not getting enough or even no voltage at all to the driver side.

    or you could just scrap the whole retro and get some wicked Xenon lights from the guy above....:facepalm:....:D
     
  7. Jul 7, 2010 at 2:58 PM
    #7
    lookylookitzadam

    lookylookitzadam Retrofit Club!

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    Yosh, I told him to check that with a mm ealier and he said he got voltage. Was it you that mentioned you actuated them with A 9v in another thread?

    If the high beams work when he switches then it has to be the wiring harness
     
  8. Jul 7, 2010 at 3:15 PM
    #8
    yosh2000

    yosh2000 Well-Known Member

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    yea, i test all my retros w/ a 9 volt before i install them. dont want to find out i have faulty solenoid once everything is locked down!!


    :thumbsup: as matt only sent him another relay, NOT a wiring harness...but it supposedly worked in the beginning?!
     
  9. Jul 7, 2010 at 5:32 PM
    #9
    BradleyJ33

    BradleyJ33 [OP] Geaux Tigers

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    TRD Supercharger with URD 2.825" Pulley, Toytec Ultimate Lift, LR UCAs, BFG All Terrain 275/70R17s on Procomp 7089 17" wheels, BAMF rock sliders, Viper 5902 alarm/remote start with smartstart, Pioneer Avic-Z110BT dvd/navi head unit, 2 Pioneer 7" monitors in headrests, 2 Rockford Fosgate Shallow-mount 10" subs pushed by RF Punch 500.2 amp, RF 5.25 components (front doors) and 5.25 full range (back doors) pushed by RF Power 400.4 amp, sound deadened, Whistler pro remote radar detector, scangauge II, debadged, Sockmonkey decals, blacked headlights with FX-R projectors, DDM Tuning HID fogs, Grillcraft upper and lower MX grill with Hella 500ffs converted to HIDs behind, AFE Stage 2 Cold Air Intake, Walbro 255 Fuel Pump upgrade, Dynomax Super Turbo muffler, Bestop Supertop, Wet Okole seat covers, Weathertech floor liners, Pop & Lock tailgate handle, Lighted 4x4 switch mod, 2 110v AC outlets in cab mod, Always at 400W mod, Maplights on with dome light mod, homelink in headliner mod, foglight
    Yeah, I talked to Matt and I've got another harness on the way...hoping that's gonna take care of it, so we'll see...I'll be sure to update this thread as soon as I get it installed and see if that's gonna fix the problem or not.
     
  10. Jul 7, 2010 at 9:08 PM
    #10
    yosh2000

    yosh2000 Well-Known Member

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    ^ that has to fix it...if the light works perfectly on the other side. some wire had to have gotten messed up somehow?
     
  11. Jul 7, 2010 at 9:15 PM
    #11
    joes06tacoma

    joes06tacoma Well-Known Member

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    LEER Shell with dome lights operated with 3 way switches, aux backup lights with relay and 3 position switch, modified wiring to compass/temp display and clock to include switch that disables dimming function (poor man's DRL solution), Scan Gauge 2
    I don't know much about hids, is your stock headlight wiring still there? Could you put your stock headlight bulbs back in for testing purposes? Maybe there is a short in your stock wiring?

    Edit: Oops, you already answered that!
     

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