Wiring iDataStart Remote Start in 2008 Tacoma

Hey again guys,

I’m looking to wire a iDataStart HC2352AC into my 2008 DC Tacoma that I was gifted. I was looking at the wiring diagrams that came with the instructions and it didn’t really help me out. I could pay $160+ to have someone else install it but money is tight now that I’ve been laid off this month from my job and I think I could do it myself. I’m much more of a visual learner rather than a reader, if someone has experience wiring this it would be greatly appreciated

I already have the device flashed with the proper software, it’s really the wiring that is daunting to me. I don’t want to start splicing wires under my dash without a better understanding of the install. I couldn’t find any resources online for the unit and Tacoma. The unit is not plug & play, I really wish I was better at wiring so I could tackle these problems myself. I appreciate you guys reading my thread even if you can’t assist. Wish me luck

 

I almost purchased that exact model but I wouldn’t have any tech support since it’s a CDN item, I called and asked. I installed an IDataStart in my Lexus 2 years ago and wanted to stick with them. It’s time consuming but just verify that you have the right wires. For the most part, alarms/remote starts are going to utilize the same wires from the vehicle no matter the brand. So I’d start by YouTubing any remote start install on a 2nd gen Tacoma, them narrow it down from there.

Full instructions are on their website but you can do it with what you have there. It shows you the brain and each harness, then what wire to tap into, what pin the wire is and what the plug looks like.
ie: find the M3 harness on the side of the brain (has 10 pins for wires)
You’re looking for the brown wire in pin 1
Then find the 13 pin plug on the fuse box behind the dash, you might have to remove the lower part of the dash. It’s to the left of the steering column.
That 13th pin in the corner of the plug should be a blue wire for the brake. Connect the brown wire from M3 to it. You can use a T quick connector on everything first so that nothing is permanent yet, then solder once it all works.

 

Here is how I did the brain. I separated the wires that I needed from the ones I didn’t and heat shrunk them together. Then found all of the wires on the car and made temporary connections. Once it worked, I chopped wires, soldered and cleaned everything up.

 

Thank you very much, that seems like the best way to do it. I’ve read about people having to put a bypass in because it shuts off if door opens etc, did you have any issues. And do I need to solder the connection or can I splice and heatshrink? I haven’t soldered in years and if wouldn’t be good to be practicing my lost skills on my taco. By temporary connection are you saying you just cut the plastic and wired it up temp to test, then you cut the actual wire in half to get everything together? Do you have pics of your wire connections that you made. The picture you provided will be very helpful, thank you

 

What do you mean by quick T connector, do you mean a quick tap into the cable? I saw that there are “T-Harnesses” you can get for the iDataStart that make it look like you don’t need to cut any wires, I don’t know which model would best fit mine though so I haven’t ordered any.


https://lockdownsecuritycanada.ca/products/idatastart-ads-thr-tl5-toyota-lexus-t-harness

That’s the harness I’m talking about, would one of those just be Plug and play? That’s more appealing than soldering and cutting wires in my opinion

 

The IdataLink that I pictured is what I put in the Lexus and had a bypass built in. Yes, you will need a bypass and I don't think the HC2 has one built in. When I was looking to do the Tacoma myself, it was going to cost me $195 for the remote start and bypass. Then BestBuy ran a special on a Compustar 4905s (same company as IDataLink) installed for $260 so I just bought that and let them deal with it.

Here is a picture of the "temporary" connections I'm talking about. They can be permanent too, I just prefer to solder. I'll use these to start with and once I know everything works, I'll remove them, strip some wire back and solder in a good connection.

 

If that harness works it'll make the job a piece of cake!!

 

Do you mind explaining what the function of a bypass is? I still don’t understand 100%, is it just so the engine doesn’t shut off while you open the door. And thank you for showing me the temporary connectors, if T harness doesn’t work that is an excellent option

 

I don't know all of the specifics about bypasses but basically our ignition system or immobilizer looks for the key in order to start the vehicle. On a remote start the key is not in the ignition, therefore we have to "bypass" the immobilizer so that it'll start, it tricks the system to think there is a key.

If the engine stays running when the door is opened, that is called a "secure takeover." The brake is wired in so that the truck can not be stolen (moved) until the key is inserted. If the brake is pressed without a key, it will kill the engine.

 

Would you be able to tell what guage these wires are by looking ? I have lost my wire stripped and can’t tell by eye because I don’t do much wiring

I’m going to run to princess auto and purchase T taps and heatshrink wrap for the cables

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention to buy the connectors for the right size gauge wire but I guess you figured that out lol I would guess those are 18ga - 22ga,

 

Thank you very much for all the help, I might throw some more questions at you if I run into trouble