2018 JBL Audio Options

This is partially me venting about:
A) my displeasure with the way Toyota designed this convoluted JBL system and
B) the fact that the lackluster sub takes up the single largest interior storage space in these trucks.

I’ve done all out builds in 2 previous vehicles and simply have no desire to do that. I don’t need an SPL build, aren’t an audiophile that needs that absolute best SQ, but I do want decent sound and the JBL system does not cut it.

Problem:
I need the storage space behind my seats so after googling, reading many threads on here, and PM’ing @destin_meeks, I’m a little grumpy that I’ll have to spend $600-$1k+ regardless of which option I choose. The approximate prices I’ve listed below includes shopping around for deals as I do for everything, stacking coupons, cashback etc, just in case anyone wanted to question the amounts.

Goals:
1) Regain storage space behind back seat
2) Retain OE headunit
3) Keep cost in the $500-700 price range
4) Improve sound quality

Options:
1) Remove sub, not practical since the amp powers the sub and all speakers plus acts as an active crossover

2) Remove sub, retain amp and relocated to under rear seat storage area, install PAC AmpPro, coaxial speakers F&R, possibly components up front to utilize dash speaker location, Kicker Key compact 4ch amp mounted behind glovebox, Kicker Hideaway mounted under seat.
Approx $650-700

3) Remove entire JBL system 100%, install Apple car play compatible double Din, run new speaker wire, install coaxial speakers, optional Kicker Hideaway.
Approx $600-800

*Newly added option*
4) Remove JBL sub, retain amp and relocated to under rear seat storage area, install 8 channel LOC or DSP, coaxial speakers F&R, possibly components up front to utilize dash speaker location, Kicker Key compact 4ch amp mounted behind glovebox, Kicker Hideaway mounted under seat.
Approx $650-780

With any of these I could sell my OE JBL sub and enclosure for a couple hundred or so.

Any other options I’m missing that allow me to attain my stated goals?

 

Anything you can do in the bed to create storage and not have to touch your system? Box? Tonneau? Cap?

 

Not a fan of caps, don’t want to take up 18” of an already small bed with a tool box, and haven’t found a folding toneau that is secure enough while being easily removable.
Even if I went with a good toneau like the MX4, they’re like $800+, cheaper to mod the audio.

 

Hate the idea of having the JBL system and blowing it up for storage. @mesojdm sells
Some kind of overhead rack for inside the truck.

 

It would be different if it actually sounded great, but it doesn’t. I have a sunroof so roof storage would mean things would be hitting my head plus I want things concealed behind the seats.

 

Curious. Was your trim package not available without the JBL system?

 

Why not take the speaker outputs from the jbl amp, input those into a dsp and then add an aftermarket amp and send all the signals back to the speakers?

 

Check out my build thread where I tear out the whole JBL system.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2015-full-system-jbl-tear-out.567718/

Honestly I wouldn't keep anything from the JBL system. I think you can do a lot better for under 1k if you do the labor...

 

Nope. There are only 2 option packages, tech and premium. Leather and heated seats was a must, I wanted the sunroof, and those meant I needed the Premium package which includes JBL Audio. Honestly I didn’t research the audio much. I assumed it would be good enough and didn’t see anywhere that I would lose that storage space. I noticed it when I got home from taking delivery. I was quite disappointed.

 

I never looked into this until this morning. I’ve seen many posts about the LC7i and after doing some research this morning it looks like a simple option to allow one to retain the factory HU/amp and run aftermarket amps and speakers.

I’ll have to price it out and add it to my “options” list in the OP, but I certainly like it thus far.

 

That's disappointing. I've heard the JBL system in earlier models and wasn't impressed. I like JBL speakers but I've never met a factory upgrade system regardless of the audio partner that I felt warranted the cost of the system.

 

The LC7i is good for what it is, but i don’t think it would be the best fit in this build. It will do channel summing, but only 2 channels. And it only has 3 inputs. So you could have channels 1 and 2 getting the tweeters and door woofers and sum them together, and then channel 3 for the rear speakers, but the sub still gets left out. This means that none of your speakers have the low end that the amp is crossing over to the subwoofer.

Unfortunately for your budget, the AmpPro is the easiest way to go.

As I mentioned, you can also do a full JBL gut if you don’t mind losing the factory radio. If you ditch the jbl amp, speakers, sub, and head unit, you could build an “old school” system for pretty cheap.

 

@destin_meeks good point on the 6 channel LOC not allowing for the sub input. So I would need something with at least 7 input channels.

Kicker 8 channel
https://www.hifisoundconnection.com/Shop/Control/Product/fp/vpid/8245008/vpcsid/0/SFV/30046

The more I look, I’m not seeing many good options for LOC’s that have more than 6 channels.

Changing the HU is a last resort. So yes, the AmpPro is sounding like the way to go for me.

 

Yeah the kicker 8 channel or something like an AudioControl DSP are some of the only options. And that’s busting the budget wide open.

Amp pro, kicker key, new speaker wires run from glove box to door locations. That was your original plan and it seems like the cheapest reasonable option for your goals.

 

The kicker 8 ch goes for only $200, so would kill my budget. Or refurbs for $90 in my link. Do you have any experience with them?

 

I’ve used one in my career. It did what we needed it to do, but the AmpPro didn’t exist at the time. For your build, there would be a few factors that would make me avoid it. The main one being Lots of wiring. You have to get all of the factory speaker signals (14 wires total, at the jbl amp) to whatever location you put the SUM8. There most likely isn’t room for it in any location other than under the front seats, or behind the rear seats. Then we’re back to square one with storage space. At least the amp pro will be behind the radio, and you only need short RCA cables over to the Key behind the glove box.
And with the amp pro, you can still maintain full (clean) EQ from the factory radio, and add a sub back in should you ever decide to.

 

Thanks again Destin! You answered my only outstanding question, the EQ. As I was researching the LOC I was concerned about losing the EQ.

Sounds like the AmpPro is in fact the answer. Even though this is what I initially thought, I’m glad I went through this process to better understand the different options and their pros/cons.

Once I sell my OE sub (minus amp) I’ll start this project.

 

The two problems with the PAC AmpPro is fitting it into the dash & every time you disconnect car battery it messes up the module in my experience.

The PAC harness is difficult to stuff in the dash without squashing all the wires.

 

Yes, I found your posts about this and the Maestro as I was researching. Thanks for sharing that comparison.
Im not too concerned about the battery disconnect as I have an RTMR for all accessories, and the chances of having to replace a dead battery or jump a 2018 truck is pretty slim, for now.
I am concerned about the harness fitting in there but I’ll just have to be smart about how I tuck it all in there.

 

Keep excess wire to a minimum, neatly zip-tie any slack into loops (please don't use electrical tape for wire management. it gets all sticky and leaves residue that is a pain to get off)

It will be a tight fit, but that's how I like it