Single (and Two) Piece Driveshaft = Vibes....BE GONE!!!

That isn't the piece that's preventing it, though from what I said in the previous post, I see why you though it would be. Find one of these that'll fit the 1330 and you could make it happen.

$52 Spicer 2-26-497 Center Yoke

https://www.amazon.com/Spicer-2-26-497-Center-Yoke/dp/B00GAPE8RU

 

Done!!!
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9..._double_cardan_cv_h_yoke_1330_series_fit.html

 

The flanges may be the harder part I'll look for them more later.

 

Haha damn, I'm going to be annoyed if there IS a way to do this and keep the 1330s.

What about the front centering yoke that fits the factory spline shaft on the Tacoma (26 splines?).

Shoot, just build us a list of the parts that fit the 1330s and mimic my parts list but account for the bigger size. If the list comes together and has no issues, I'm going to go have a nice talk with the local driveline shop...

Jake

 

Being a mechanic and having to find parts and learn to use databases and catalogs comes in handy. Although I miss the good ol' days of having the big book in hand rather than searching the net for hrs at a time. I could fly through a catalog quicker and find what I need rather than trying to weed through the nonsense on the interwebs to get to the good stuff.

So I need to find a flange splined to 26 and the centering yoke that mates up to that as well. Give me a little bit and I'll figure it out then get all the #s written down if I can make it work. Maybe we can get them put on the first post so that it's quick reference for others.

 

So it's coming together this is what I have for 1330 set up just need to ad

26 spline 1330 yoke (this uses U-bolts but should work since the nuts tighten on the backside of the yoke and not to the yoke through straps; still looking for a better one they do make a 1350 u-joint one). I have been cross referencing part #s and found out that this yoke is for a Dana 300 t-case with 26 splines and the same 1.146 dia. spline.

Here is everything with links! Pay attention to what some of these parts are used for some are factory parts so take note of that which makes it easier for buying spares if needed.

2-4-6111x splined yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1...x_pinion_yoke_u_bolt_style_fits_dana_30_.html
211179x Centering yoke to bolt to splined yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2292_dana_spicer_211179x_cv_centering_yoke_ford_bronco_f_150_f_25.html
2-26-527 DC H-yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9..._double_cardan_cv_h_yoke_1330_series_fit.html
2-28-2187x ball stud weld on yoke https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p1..._ball_stud_yoke_1330_series_to_fit_3.0_i.html
5368 Neapco tubing adapter https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p3931_neapco_5368_increasing_bushing_3.0_inch_to_3.5_inch.html

 

Nice man, I like that a list is coming together!

The only problem I see so far (and work with me here, I know very very little about double cardan joints) is while the u-bolts will work to keep the u-joint mounted to the 2-4-6111x yoke, it won't work to center the two u-joints and prevent some sloppy flopping around within the double cardan joint.

On Chris's and my setup, the 2-28-977x yoke has a stud that slips into the 211355X yoke and creates the "centering ball" function between the two u-joints in the double cardon.

If you can correct that and get the double cardan joint to be centering...then you've just pieced together a better solution than my local shop (and others) have been able to!

 

This should bolt to the 1330 splined yoke and eliminate the U-bolts to hold the u-joints and center them
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p2...cv_centering_yoke_ford_bronco_f_150_f_25.html

 

Yep this'll work just checked all the measurements to the splined yoke
I'll update my list to reflect this

 

Oh just an FYI all that the centering stud and centering ball yoke do is tighten up the center section and don't allow the DC to over articulate and hit or get into a terrible binding situation. Tightening it up also helps with higher DS speeds like you said to keep the extra flopping down. but at low crawling type applications like in a crawler you could possibly get away without it but you would have to really articulate everything and make sure nothing gets into a bind. Good catch though I forgot about that and it didn't even cross my mind. I was so stoked on finding everything I just went quick and dirty. I'm glad you caught it before anyone built it the way I had it laid out and then had some major issues.

But there you have it 1330 DC set up using parts for Jeep, Ford, Dodge, and universal. Just took some time and effort looking a little deeper and comparing all the specs and #s.

 

Very nice, though also frustrating.

When I left the local shop, I said one last thing to them (after the other details of Spicer parts where available and cost goals) which was, "I want it to be as strong, if not stronger, than the factory setup" to which Charlie responded, "absolutely". The fact that there is seemingly a way to achieve that goal by keeping 1330 u-joints is rather annoying. I dislike it when I don't get honest work for my money (which is why I almost always do my own work, clearly this was outside my skill set and tooling).

That said, the 1310's work for my true needs in a driveshaft so maybe I should just let it slide. No one, including myself, knows it all. Though you did just piece something together without many hiccups...so it should've been doable by a so-called "30 years experience" drive line shop. I digress.

Now all we need someone to do is prove the concept and build one....what say you, Skip?! Be a frontier for the trail limo folks!

Jake

 

I'm going to do it. I need to source a used DS first as the one I have needs retubed and I want to use it as a spare. There is also a way to do 1350 U-joints in my searching I found that you could make one using them. But the rest of the DS may not be as strong nor did I check to see if you could do upgraded flanges for the T-case and diff to 1350. Funny we are looking at 133 for stronger joints or at least stock because I am so use to 1410 1450 and even 1500 series u-joints as the bigger stronger upgrades and the go to.

 

Excited to see this getting done! Toyota Motor Company should be embarrassed they couldn't figure this out!

 

Sounds good man, keep us updated.

 

Because they don't need it for stock trucks.

 

Will do.

 

Not true. Our 2012 TRD Off Road is 100% stock and only had 42,000 miles on it when we bought it. There is a 20 page TSB out for the 2012 Tacoma with AUTOMATIC transmission.

 

I've seen and read the TSB. I still don't believe that it is needed on a stock height and suspension truck. I believe there are other issues with the DS than needing a DC joint to fix that problem. There is a lot more to the lifting the trucks with getting correct pinion angles compared to output angles etc. that the DC is less finicky about and easier to set up. Chevy and Ford had their woes with DS as well throughout the yrs and had TSBs just as long to fix the issues. DS are a 3rd party part and a major manufacturer is relying on their QC dept. to make sure everything is good and a lot slips through the wood work especially with as high volume as Tacoma DS are. This is just my opinion though and experience in dealing with issues such as this.

 

So I’ve got 2012 double cab short bed 4x4 sport. Still has the vibrations with carrier bearing shims and shims on the rear end...I’ve got a rough country 4 inch lift kit. Will your first drive shaft choice be the exact shaft I need to cure my issues? Same measurements and everything?

 

This is my second Tacoma and battled the DS vibe problem. So far the best fix so far is what I am currently running.
Replace the front yoke with a dana 300 and flip the back and have a double cardan put on.
Note the yoke is shorter and will need to be spaced. My spacer is made from the inner race of an old center support bearing with just a 1/32 of inch shaved off to fit perfectly.
total cost was approx. $350