AAL or full leaf pack?

In the process of building a rack to mount rotopax and maxtrax. Will eventually add RTT in a few years. After installing rack along with other items that are in my bed daily I'm looking at around 200 pounds. I've been seeing a lot of guys say they get 3+ inches out of Dakars. I'm not too concerned with having rake, but right now I'm only looking at 1.5" front lift so that would be kinda crazy rake for my taste.
Should I just do an AAL, or do the 3 leaf progressive AAL, or grab Dakars and be done with it?
Also, is there an option that generally has less chances of requiring shims? I had 2" tapered blocks at one point with a CB drop, but still was seeing minor 8mph driveline shutter and was too lazy to figure out my angles and correct them so I took it out. I understand I will still need to correct angles with whatever rear lift I go with, but just wondering if one is better than the other.
Thanks for any input.

 

Full dakar

 

Lol did you read my entire post or you just suggesting full pack right off the bat? If you are, that's cool, just wondering. And thanks for the fast reply

 

If you're going to be adding the weight of a rack and RTT then get a heavier duty leaf pack. That weight combined with more trip weight (camping gear etc.) will make a stock pack with an AAL sag something fierce.

As for medium duty or heavy duty, I dont know since options for 1st gens are different than 3rd. But you will want the ability to hold more weight than what a single AAL will give you.

If it were me, I'd go heavy duty. Better to have the ride be a little more stiff on road but able to handle a lot of weight than not able to hold what you need it to. Sagging rear ends and hitting your rear bumps constantly is no fun.

 

HD Dakars and remove a leaf till you add the additional weight.

 

Thank you for the responses.
What are the main differences between the heavy and medium? If I remove leaves from the heavy will it literally become the medium duty?

 

Yes

 

I wonder if it's cheaper to go with the heavy and remove then add back verses going with the mediums and purchasing the extra leaves later. Seems like it more cost effective to get the heavy right away

 

This.

Better to buy the HD pack and remove the leaf until you need it. That should provide enough support till you add all the other weight

 

yup

 

It's simple enough to remove leaves before installing pack on truck? Or is t better to install then undo Leaf Pack?

 

Is it only one leaf that makes the difference, or multiple?

 

Should be just one...way easier to take one out before you install the packs. Just undo the center pin and clamps and remove a leaf (someone with a 3rd gen should verify which leaf to remove, I think it's the 3rd one from the top on 1st gens). Then install the packs

 

Agree, from experience. Bought helper springs then 4 leaf tsb. Gave up and got the standard Dakars 6 months ago. It settled after 500 miles and I just finished installing the OME AAL, essentially making it an HD dakar (ELO96). I'm running about 180lbs in the bed with the tent.

It needs to settle but I don't think the rake will be that bad with 2" up front. You can easily take out the 3rd leaf, essentially making the ELO96 an ELO95 if you don't like the rake.

Personally I would rather deal with rake when it's empty than bro lean when it's loaded up.

 

What front set up did you go with when installing the dakars and AAL? How much lift are you at in the rear with the Dakar and AAL?

 

I have ToyTec coilovers set at about 2". I am waiting for things to settle then I'll remeasure and adjust the front as needed. I will try to remember to post pictures once I finish.

 

Yup sure did. As was mentioned in prior posts you can get the medium pack first, and.then if you end up carrying alot of weight convert to a heavy pack with one leaf. Side note the ride characteristics are quite nice

 

Don't they recommend not carrying weight with the mediums?

 

If you do a full Dakar pack,

Forget the CB drop (technically a last resort as your front shaft should be straight as possible) get 3-degree shims in the rear and you will probably (likely) want the ECGS bushing installed because Toyota’s driver CV needle bearing was a poor design the fails more often then not and leaves you feeling a rumble like cobblestone street when slowing or accelerating through 20/40mph.

 

When correcting angles it's my understanding that you want the output shaft angle at the transmission to be within one degree of the pinion angle. The cb drop is to ensure that the two propeller shafts are almost dead parallel with each other. Is this correct?
I've heard a lot of people go with 3* shims and no cb drop but with my luck the shims won't be enough lol. I'll do pre (more) lift angle checks and post lift checks as well!

Also, I don't have a problem installing the ECGS bushing, however, I'm lifted just under 2" in the front and don't have vibes from the bearing yet. I do have slight vibrations from stiffer suspension or other things, I'm assuming, but when engaging 4hi it all feels exactly the same. Definitely a good suggestion though, so thanks.