Auxbeam 32” Straight and 42” Curved 5D Series Cree Combo Light Bar Installation And Review

Yes just checked. Not sure if discounts are applied. But rigid side shooters vs auxbeem side shooters rigids are 20 more. But the 52 inch bar is about half for the auxbeem. May have to go with auxbeem but than i might not be able to have them at work.

 

Explain "might not be able to have them at work" please John. If you don't mind. Thanks.

 

My work is a rigid dealer. Thats how i can get them cheep.

 

yeah, might want to chill then. Or put covers on them with Rigid decals on them

 

Nice write up! Do both of your lights shoot straight? Looks like the lower one goes off to the left a bit? That's how my 32" auxbeam bar is...hate it but I got a partial refund...so I'm living with it until I order my caliraised 32" spot bar.

 

Hmmmmm, I attributed it to the fact that the light bar mounting system holes were not quite symmetrical. I wonder if that's the case or is it off as you say?

I do kinda wish I had gotten the curved 32" so that it followed the contour of the face of the grill but originally I was going to put it behind the grill. The mounting system was a late change of mind.

Now I'm going to have to take it all apart, fix the mounting system and see what's up. I know on the road I never really noticed it.

Thanks for posting!

 

Great job Rob, I just got an Auxbeam 30” Aux-Trend with the amber DLR’s. I love it! It’s soooo bright. Did you wire the harness directly to the battery? I want to wire it so it only has power when the ignition switch is on and I’m not sure how to do that. Any suggestions?

 

Hi Mike,
Thank you! I really like these Auxbeam light bars too!

Yes, mine are both wired directly to the battery. I am definitely not an expert in this but I believe if you tap your hot into another circuit like the hot wire for the 7 pin trailer harness (an easy to get to exterior wire) or the hot wire to the stereo (an interior wire not impossible to get to) you would be achieving what you want.

Personally, I like it directly wired to the battery. Only because if you're out and need the light, say while setting up camp, you don't need the truck running. Sure this will drain the battery but never all the way in the amount of time they will be on. Then as soon as you are running the engine you're gonna be charging again.

I'm tagging a couple guys I know are more up to speed on what you want than me. They should be able to answer your question better.

@EatSleepTacos @Parker315 please see the post above. Can either of you help, if I haven't covered it?
Thanks guys.

 

Hey Mike!! I would suggest the following, it the first thing that comes to mind, there are other options if this isn't what you want to do...

First thing, You need a mini "Add-A-Circuit" Fuse TAP Adapter. This is a super clean way of tapping into your factory harness without compromising the factory wiring in any way. It can be found

Uriveusa 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Fuse Holder with 10A, 20A Fuse [Upgraded Fuses] - (2 Pack)

HERE and it will include x2-10A & x2-20A fuses. The bottom fuse location is for the factory circuit. You need to match that fuse to whatever was in the factory location. The top fuse protects the circuit your adding, which in this case it the light bar.

I would suggest adding the "Add-A-Circuit" Fuse TAP Adapter to the AC/Ignition fuse location located under the hood in the fuse box. See photo below...





You can still use the wiring harness that came with the lightbar if that's what you were going to use. You just need to cut off the inline fuse and the electrical connector. Strip the end where you cut and crimp the "Add-A-Circuit" Fuse TAP Adapter in place. In the photo below just reference the location with the green check and ignore the red X location. These photos were used for a different demonstration for the SP9100 unit. It just for a good reference for you. I hope this helps!

 

See, this is why I leave it to the experts! So much freaking detail! Thanks Brett!

 

Thanks Rob! Any time I can share some knowledge to help someone else

 

Exactly why I asked Brett!

 

Updated my first post on Page 1, all the way at the bottom. FYI, in the future, all updates will be made to the first post.

 

My phone always dies before I can even get to the bottom of the first post.......


And that's with it plugged into the charger.

 

That's because you have AADD and get distracted by squirrels easily.

Oh and if you think that is bad, wait until I do my Mod thread. That will be a 4 page first post at least. You better hook up solar.

 

Gonna try my damndest to steal the 2nd post

 

Well, I'm not letting any of you delinquents know until the first post is ready. I'm working it up in a word document and storing it and the photos on a special location on my hard drive so I can just do a master cut and paste. Otherwise it will be public and unfinished then I will have to hear you all say "IT'S UNFINISHED!!!!!!"



But I might have to give you dibs now.

 

The best tactic is to definitely write it up in a word document, so your good there. Second, you can create your build thread and go ahead and post your write up in post #1 and quickly reply to the post by just typing a period and send and again on post #3 to reserve those posts. Or create the thread now with a title and in Post #1 just put coming soon and again reply with a period on post 2 and 3 to reserve those spots.