What oversized drain plug for Transmission drain bolt?

I've been trying to figure out which oversized drain plug to use for my stripped transmission drain plug, but am having trouble figuring out which one I need to get.

I know the oem plug is m10-1.50mm, but the closest one I could find was a oversized M12-1.75mm via a Dorman 090198:

$19 Dorman 090-198 Double Oversize Oil Drain Plug M12x1.75, 5 Pack

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009OZUO5...olid=3JEGKS7CWWVIY&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Would this bolt work with the truck okay, or are there any specific plug you guys recommend?

Edit: Also found this one at autozone via Dorman 090-031: https://www.autozone.com/external-engine/oil-drain-plug/dorman-oil-drain-plug/938475_0_0
^This one seems like it may just be what I am needing, but not completely certain. I would order it for the heck of it just due to the low price, but they have a minimum order amount of 5 haha.

 

Your local hardware store should have a bunch of these in their little drawer hardware section. You will probably need to drill, and definitely need to tap, the new thread size. If you just wrench that larger bolt in there, you are going to have another stripped drain plug!

 

I appreciate the concern, haha thats why I'm here in the first place as I want to make sure I get the proper one. Its a given you can find plenty of different kinds, but whats I'm asking for is what size would actually work or has worked for folks before.

That said these bolts in particular are essentially taps that just double as plugs, so stripping is certainly a concern, but not likely given we find the correct size and install them properly. I've certainly also considered considered buying a tapping kit, but I would prefer to find a self taping plug as a cheaper/simpler alternative.

 

How does one strip the drain plug hole?

I'm not sure what you mean by "these bolts are essentially taps that just double as plugs."

You can buy a single tap of the size you need. Going cheap in this situation will cost you more in the long run.

And invest in a torque wrench if it got stripped from over tightening.

Sorry, I can't offer a size bolt that will work from experience. It looks like it's hard to find a M12x1.5 in a flange bolt, but you can find them in regular bolts.

An alternative is to replace the pan. Maybe you can find a cheap used one online.

 

Remove the pan, clean it and weld on a new nut on the outside of the pan and buy a new drain plug?

 

The drain was stripped likely by over torquing by the previous owner, haha I've just been putting it off till now when I decided to change the trans fluid and found out both the hole and plug were stripped.

In terms of the bolts doubling as plugs, its exactly as it means. If you look at the plugs they are made tapered and threaded to cut new threads when installed. Of course you can then buy a new bolt at that size if you wanted, but the oversized plug itself does the job just fine. (Note: "oversized plug" is the actual term for the kind of plug that self taps, not to be confused with the adjective) Haha Scotty can better explain visually: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m0dBZDBUFvI&vl=en

I've used them before on other vehicles, but all of them were commonly made oversized bolts such as M14 and M12. For the ones we use its not as common or to obvious as to what bolt best fits ours from my searching. That said its actually pretty easy and simple to do that really has no long term consequences that differ from using a tap.

Haha I was considering also changing the pan but they were all around +70$, and I'm not a fan of used covers in particular as they could very well have been stripped somewhere (that or be prone to it by being used). Much better to just spend 3-5 bucks on a plug that will net the same result. Haha having read other posts in the past, I'm sure if we find the right one it'll be helpful to the folks in the future searching as well. I'll be sure to share my results.

Not sure this is in jest or I'm just a real dunce (likely the latter haha). Seems a little redundant to weld on a new nut to only buy a another nut and have no drain hole left. Unless you mean to weld the first hole shut, and make a new hole for a new drain spot?

 

That is the same guy that has a 45 minute long video on magic engine coolant. Total BS imo, don’t listen to that guy.

Bolts are bolts, and a tap is a tap. The ONLY time they are the same is when you specifically buy a self tapping screw, and they only work on sheet metal, which a drain pan nut is not.

That’s just plain bad advice.

Drill it out, tap it, and install new larger drain bolt.

 

I like the guy, but sometimes he is giving so much BS, like with this one. This is really redneck solution. There is no self tapping plug - to create a good reliable thread you need precise and sharp tools, otherwise it would be like hammering the plug in.

There is actually much better way to deal with it IMHO. This guy is showing the real deal, not TV show.

https://youtu.be/o16UEEbbcSU

By the way the reason the reamer is used before the cutting a thread to make sure the new thread is not trying to follow the old one, but it starts fresh.

 

Happy new years guys, sorry for not updating sooner I've been going through some pickles. Anyways as a update I ended up concluding there isn't a oversized bolt that goes down to 10mm, unlike the previous vehicles I used them on so I ended up having to buy a tapping set. Gotta be honest I'm pretty in debt at the moment, haha so its unfortunate I couldn't find another way to solve the issue (As really the same procedure in using a self tapping bolt is the same as using a tap).

On another note my fuel pump was dying on me, so I ended up fixing that as well in tandem to the trans bolt. Luckily found a way to change the fuel pump without having to drop the gas tank (as it was near full), and not having to take off or move the truck bed (which was full of tools/gear, and could do it 1man). Haha it was to dangerous of a method though to feel right sharing here, and I'm sure noone is that interested in it. But, I'm glad my truck is up and running fine again, though may have to change the fuel filter again even though i did it back in march after some fuel pressure testing.

Also you guys seemed to put a lot of emphasis on scotty when I just used his as a visual because it just happened to be the first thing to pop up haha. Self tapping bolts have been around for as long as I can remember at least in the last 20-30 years. Never had a issue with them.

 

Personally, I'd just get a new oilpan at that point.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=7678736&cc=1317613&jsn=411

Out of stock, but the 4WD equivalent is $53.

Here's a used OEM one for $66.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/OIL-PAN-4-...h=item3f7cd62515:g:V8sAAOSwXaRZ7DO4:rk:8:pf:0

 

Haha if I could have afforded it I would have as well as I do like shiny new things, but its okay. Just tapped it out and put on a new bolt and i'm good to go now. Just wish I could have spent 5 dollars to fix the issue instead of 50 lol but now I got a new shiny set of tools to.

 

What size bolt? I don't like it, but some people use Helicoil or a similar thread repair product.

 

Its just a 10-1.50 bolt for the plug. Ended up getting a tekton set from homedepot (Would have just bought the 1 specific tap, but thats already near 9-10 bucks): https://www.homedepot.com/p/TEKTON-Metric-Tap-and-Die-Set-39-Piece-7559/205544445

It works fine for what it was needed for. Honestly can't say how one brand of sets would compare to others from a personal stand point. But, its not to bad for 25bucks.

 

I was going to ask if you could just clean up the old threads and put a new bolt of the same size in. Is that what you did? I couldn't/can't believe that the threads would have been stripped completely out.

 

Thats pretty much what I did indeed haha. I'm still using a 10x1.5 oem bolt. Just tapped it out with the same spec tap, and called it done. I think I lucked out and found there was still enough material left to easily fix the issue without having to upsize. I read some forum posts of folks doing the same, and most fixed it the same way albeit a small minority having to upsize.

Was very easy to do, though I probably would be better off actually drilling it out and going to a larger size, but I'll let future me find that out and deal with it haha.


*edit: think I read your question wrong at first. I'll answer it again! I did try putting in a new bolt after cleaning the threads (without tapping the transmission plug hole yet), but it wouldn't accept the new bolt and just cause the threads to come off the new bolt. So unfortunately putting in a new bolt to force it to fit in the stripped pan didn't work for me.

 

It should be fine as long as you are careful to not overtighten it.

You'll find other uses for those taps and dies. The wheel studs on cars sometimes get burrs on the threads when pulling the wheels off. If the lug nut isn't going on smoothly I'll clean the threads up otherwise they will just get worse and eventually the lug nut will get stuck on and break the stud off. Many other uses where you find a nick on a thread and it's a whole lot easier to clean the thread up with a die than find a new stud or bolt.

 

Much appreciated and will do in not overtightening. I find it funny how you think "eh I don't really need that tool", and the moment you do use a new set of tools your mind switches to "oh I can use it on this.. that.. and everything!" haha.

I certainly may very well use it on some other vehicles with some less severe issues just to clean it up a bit similar to your wheel lug example. I do wonder how many times these taps can be rung through though. They seem sturdy enough to last at least a few jobs, but I'll try to be gentle .

 

You're supposed to use cutting oil when using taps & dies to cut new threads. Maybe it's not as important when just cleaning threads. Using oil will extend the life of the tools. Just using any type of oil is better than going at it dry. No need to buy cutting oil if you only use them occasionally to clean threads. In that case just use a drop or two of motor oil, then clean the threads of the part with brake cleaner (like the wheel stud). You probably had some ATF still on the drain hole which is good enough.

 

Can't use Helicoil on something thin like an oil pan. It won't hold.