Active System w/complete soundproofing (JBL tear out).

I get a pretty big dip in the 500 Hz octave as well with some pretty high peaks to the left and right of it. The system is less harsh now, but I think lost some mid bass as a result.

Do you normally use A weight or C weight or flat in RTA?

 

I don't use any weighting. I don't ever boost either - only cuts.

 

I made some more progress with the deadening. Last weekend while I was at Sushi with my girlfriend somebody side swiped my driver mirror. Since you have to pull the door panel to replace the mirror I figured it was time to address the fact that I left the main service hole open in both front doors. I had applied the soundskins, but my door panel needed to be modified in order to plug the biggest hole in the door so I saved this work for today.

To plug the big hole I took butyl rope and wrapped it all the way around the big hole. Then I applied the mlv over top. The MLV has a few bolts going through it and I have some double sided acrylic tape in other places holding it to the soundskins. I'm not sure when I'll come back around to do the passenger door, but I'm not doing it this weekend. This took me about 3.5 hours to get everything to fit properly. I had to hack a lot of unnecessary plastic off the door panel to get it to fit. I will try to post more detailed pictures of the parts I had to cut off the door panel when I do the passenger side.



I have done a lot to the inside of this door panel to get it to fit and to be more dead. You can see soundskins deadener all over the door as well as 1/8th inch closed cell foam over a few of the surfaces that come in contact with the mlv.

 

I have completed the passenger door. I took the following pictures of the door panel & modifications I had to make in order to get the mlv between the panel and the door.

Here is the door panel with some left over soundskins material from the doors. I put it around the panel to try and make it less squeaky.


This plastic sticks all the way into the door & gets right next to the window when it's rolled down all the way. I need to cut it off to fit the MLV.


I gave it a hair cut & then I came back with a mini-torch to clean up the saw mess.


I cut this off the door panel with a hack saw blade & my hands. I was able to use one large piece of MLV over the whole door & to seal the large service hole w/butyl-rope against the MLV.


The passenger door looks the same as the driver door. The ride is getting really quiet. Still some work to do with the cabin vent and the back of the truck. Something is installed backwards in this photo that I had to correct before fitting the door panel.

 

Starting off the conquest for a quiet cabin vent. These panels are from the back bottom corners of the truck cab. I covered the RH panel with a double sided acrylic tape and then stuck some MLV to it because this panel covers a hole to the cabin vent.

Does anyone have any ideas what other things I can do to silence the vent?

 

Yea turn up that awesome fucking stereo setup you got in there. Vent noise gone.

 

Typically bad dips happen at crossover frequencies and time aligning HF with LF will mitigate this. Also keep in mind it's a good idea to measure from several places within the cab so you aren't trying to tune out a huge spike that only happens at one location of the listening area. I'm not sure what can really be done about standing waves.

Otherwise, shit man, you went all out. That's a lot of work, good job.

 

I'm taking my long weekend and getting the project to another checkpoint. When I pulled up the carpet & dropped the headliner I didn't complete the soundproofing on back floor/wall of the truck cab. I'm already pretty far along before I have to go back to work.

I took MLV & closed cell foam then covered the whole back/right pillar, but I only got a picture with the bottom panel off... My bad.. This pillar is where the cabin vent is located so this is my attempt to silence the vent. In a previous picture I showed the panel having been covered in MLV as well. There were two unused 6mm threads in the pillar. One is to the upper right of the seat belt bolt just above the headliner level. The other is about 5/8'ths of the way up the pillar on the left side of the center vertical. I used double sided acrylic tape & these two screw points to attach the MVL.


Here's a closer pic. I stuffed the factory JBL stereo wires up into the right corner since I'm not using them.


Starting to size out the Luxury Liner Pro for the back floor.


Just need to leave a little room for the storage bin so I'm doing the last long cut here.


I have everything cut-out and ready to go before I roll the carpet back down.


The carpet rolled back down. It fits fine.


I installed the bin and the back right pillar panel that was treated in MVL. Everything fit just fine & the seat-belt has zero interference.


Just got these "Unilug battery terminal's". I'm going to use them to do a big-3 upgrade without taking apart the factory harness.


I need a better boot to cover this bad boy.

 

I'm still not ready to install the box & amp rack. I tried to carpet the amp rack and made a pretty bad mistake so I have to give it a second go. I'm also still trying to figure out how to carpet this shelf for the box. There appears to be plenty of clearance for the amps & the woofer, but I might have to cut the shelf a little more.

Using a wrench & a zip tie to the child seat hook to hold up the amps during fitment testing.

 

I can't listen to loud music with grandma in the truck.. Her ears don't work like they used to. ;-)

My dip is at 500 Hz and I've been unable to really get rid of it. I have the EQ jacked way up, but still dipping.

 

Well, the good news is 500 isn't one of those painful or annoying frequencies and it falls well within the vocal range so maybe lyrics will have a little more pop.

 

I took a break from the audio to install a new dash kit and the dash clock from a 2015.

I followed this thread for the clock mod.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/adding-dash-clock-to-15-tacoma.403452/

I installed the Scosche TA2111BPB dash kit. It comes with metal brackets for the radio, similar to the factory ones. Be super careful with them around the dash because they are super sharp. Fitting the Scosche kit is a little more difficult than the cheap-o, but it's much more secure.

The first dash kit is cheap, made of plastic and doesn't make use of all the OEM radio mounting points. Here it is with the packaging.


It only used two of the four OEM bolts for the radio & it looks like it will eventually break apart.


I took an extra 2-pin connector that I salvaged from when I reverse engineered the T01 Maestro harness & wired it for the clock. Yellow is 12V and red is accessory, I try to label wires I know I might need to use again or just in case someone else opens the dash. This is the Maestro RR with T01 harness.


If I ever change the harness I will need to re-wire the clock. Good enough for now.

 

looks good!!! I think all work you are doing is great. the only thing is that i couldn't stand to have is 2 clocks and they be different times.... that's just me and my crazyness

 

McLovin' the show mc. Nicely done. I'd let you work on my truck anytime!

 

Problem with the radio clock is that it moves around, changes font and hides itself depending on the mode of the radio so I can hardly find it anyways... I figured out a trick to get both clocks within a few seconds though. Every time you advance the minute on the dash clock it resets the second counter.

Thanks! The ride is getting very luxurious!

I'm having issues with the 8200 NEX crashing on boot & freezing/locking up while driving. I bought all my gear from The Car Stereo Company in Mountain View California so as part of warranty/customer-service they're swapping the 8200 NEX with an 8400 NEX b/c the 8200 is unavailable. Hopefully this will fix the crashing, at first I thought it was the PAC module, but it followed to the Maestro RR so I think it must be the radio. The OEM radio had zero issues so I believe the wiring is totally fine.

 

Make sure your stereo old and new one is up to date. I can almost assure you even the 8400 will be outdated firmware wise.

 

Thanks for the suggestion, but my 8200 NEX firmware is up to date and still having issues with the HU crashing... I've found a lot of people with the same issue.

My issue sounds similar to the people in this thread. If the 8400 NEX doesn't fix, I'm going to build a circuit to fix possible Accessory/Ignition glitches.
https://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/69q4j8/pioneer_avic8200nex_boot_problems/

 

So is the radi9 actually shutting off? Have you metered it AT the pioneer harness to see if it goes from 12v to 0? Just asking for process of elimination purposes

 

I haven't tried to meter it because it's fairly intermittent and I don't feel like driving around with an oscilloscope.... The fact that I've used two different harnesses (PAC/Maestro), the factory head unit had zero issues and that Pioneer hasn't fixed in firmware makes me think it's poor hardware design by Pioneer.

 

I would tend to agree. Is the radio actually powering down/turning off or just “freezing” but still having power