Solid Axle Swap BS Thread

Yeah, I don’t remember the part number but the dealer sells a reseal kit for a steering box.

 

better options by far but in the bigger sizes they are not cheaper by any means. my 42" Iroks do well everywhere and 2/3 - 1/2 the cost of other 42's. having said that im still buying Treps my next round.

 

whats everyone doing for brakes and master cylinders? Just went to tundra brakes upfront, still stock drums in the rear with a proportioning valve and peddle feel sucks. super soft and afraid its only going to get softer when I swap the rear axle in with bigger disk brakes on it.

 

Ran both tundra brakes and stock drums and tundra brakes and rear fj80 discs with the stock mc. Both were fine and stopped great, little soft sure, but nothing dangerous. Are you sure you got all the air out?

 

Hmmm maybe I'm just expecting more. not dangerous and can lock up them up if I hit them hard. Pretty sure I got the air out. bled them using a bottle and tube alone then went around and did it again with my dad and it got a little better. guess ill just have to try it.

 

It's takes some getting used to, definitely different than stock.

 

So some of you may remember some of my dumb SAS questions from first joining. Apologies. I was, and still am, a moron. But wondering if I can pop my head in here real quick with a question. A buddy contacted me this morning and said merry xmas. You have 1 ton axles at my place. Come yank em. Donor vehicle is a 02 f250. I'm trying to make sure it is indeed a dana 60 instead of a 50. The three digit stamp on the pumpkin is 248 (which if my research is right, denotes a 9.75" ring gear and thus a dana 60) instead of 229 (9" ring and dana 50). Another buddy (who is fairly knowledgable but I believe is mistaken) says nothing before 05 with a SRW came with a dana 60, they're all 50s. Can anyone confirm any of this information?

I'll take the obvious first post:

"Confirmed you (me) are a moron"

Additionally, my original plan was to go with a super 60 due to the knuckle and knuckle bearing (I believe I've heard it referred to as a unit bearing) strength. But free is a very nice price for axles. Are there any products to upgrade the knuckles, ball joints, or unit bearings that dont entirely break the bank? I saw the dynapro or dynatrack kit, but that's like $1800. My goal is <2k into the axles themselves since theres a ton else to do.

Additional useless info. Taco has settled into a mid travel build. Got a 53 willys jeep that I plan to build a frame and stretch to scrambler length (4 seater). Ideally a 5.3 ls, 4l80, and atlas. But if deals come along, may wind up with taco powerplant (3.4, forgot the trans code but auto trans because I dont want to 3 pedal on a hill or rock)

 

02 was a crossover year for dana 50’s to dana 60’s in SRW trucks (Excursion excluded). If the tags say it’s a 60, then it probably is.

 

Frees the best price! Who cares about ball joints and what kind of bearings you have, a full body Tacoma will come no where near wheeling hard enough to actually need them.

Que the pics of someone posing a waterfall in Moab telling me im wrong...


Onto the Willy's, the Toyota power train is LOOOONG, even for a frame stretch to scrambler length. I would stick a 4.0l straight6 in there before the 3.4. The Toyota motors need low gearing due to lack of low end grunt, thus you need dual cases even with an auto, thus it's even longer. The 4.0l makes all it's torque at like 1,200 rpm.
- former Jeep owner who missed his 4.0 for a bit.

 

Legitly asking and not trying to be a smartass but isn't a 3.4 going to be roughly half the length of a 4.0?

 

It's the trans and tcase bolted to it that takes up all the room. It doesn't make sense to me either considering the Toyota and Jeep transmissions are basically the same thing, but the Toyota drive train is like a mile long compared to the heeps.

 

Anyone interested in coming to Morris mountain January 4-6? Got the park reserved.

 

Filling up with parts. Have 2 fj cases. One Has twin sticks and one is stock. Still have some more stuff to gather

 

You trying to sell some shit or what?

 

Nope. Gathering the parts pile for my one ton swap in a few months

 

If your leaves work fine then don’t fix what isn’t broken. That being said, the nice thing about links or radius arms is having the axle located under the truck by ridged bars and not floating under some bendy leaf springs. For me the handling improvement from that is the biggest benefit. Also I run an fj80 axle and use the stock steering setup with just a stronger tie rod and drag link. The tie rod behind the axle works fine with a 3 link.

And don’t chop the front frame section completely off, just do this




Frame clearence and oil pan clearence In one shot.

 

My frame needs to be chopped at the front to move the steering box more forward to push the axle up than for uptravel clearance. My tie rod and drag link barely clear each other as it is and I’d have to chop a ton out of the firewall to make a bigger tire clear.

 

What you have for axles?

 

05-09 Superduty axles. 5.13s and Yukon lockers in both

 

See if you can get a forward swing box from something on there.