Dirtdigginjoe's Project Red Rocket Build!

there may be a stainless cast manifold available soon



Also, I installed the dual comp clutch with the lightened flywheel. I've stalled it a bunch of times now

But it hooks and grips likes a MF

 

Suba freekin dub! For life!

Definitely my inspiration and I'm gonna copy the shit outta this. Even though I'm told that this wouldn't net me much low-end 4LO use on the trails, still make up for it on the street.

 

That depends on the turbo selection. If you get a small one that spools up very fast it can give you good gains low in the RPM range.
My wife's BMW has a inline 4 turbo and torque peak is at 1,200 RPM and holds till redline

 

That may be the direction I take. Staying low boost myself, avoiding new ECU, injectors, etc.
Just want some kick in the pants for highway merging and a bit more giddyup

 

Go with a 2871 or 3071 and watch it spool plenty low to be usable in the woods.
I'll be putting a 3071 compressor on mine. Mostly because I want the T51R mod done.

 

Speaking Greek to me, man. And I'm pretty sure I'm mostly Celtic/English of origin.
Layman's terms? Or, just the brand of said turbo model number

 

GT2871r is a Garret Turbo and the model is the 2871R.

Precision Turbo uses the sizes of their housings as their models...for example I had a 6466 on my STi when I had it. 64mm compressor wheel, 64mm turbine wheel.

 

Subd. This build has me wanting to turbo my 2TR. Boost is just so addictive. Any idea ballpark how much you have in your whole setup?

 

Is this for the oil return from the turbo? or what is this for? Trying to learn as much as I can about this..

 

Yes, correct. That's why the pan has to come off cuz you can't install the bung otherwise

 

Well, a real quick breakdown would be:
Turbo: $750 (Supercell GT2871r)
Manifold/DP: $350 (Sourced via Alibaba from OzBoost's supplier)
Wideband & Boost Gauges: $350 (AEM for both)
BOV: $250 (HKS SSQV)
Wastegate: $150 (Mamba adjustable internal)
AEM FIC: $150 (used)
Intercooler: $180 (eBay special lol)
Fittings/lines/gaskets: $120+ (oil/water lines & fittings)
Clutch: $380 (OEM started slipping IMMEDIATELY lol)
Fuel Pump Kit: $185

So that gives me a grand total of roughly $2,900.

I've since replaced some stuff (filter, some vacuum lines, coils, plugs, etc) but for the most part, that's about it.

 

Yes, the -10AN return line from the turbo needs to be tapped on the upper pan so it sits higher than the oil level inside the lower pan. This is the best spot for it, as it keeps it angled down as well.
If you have a 4WD like me, you'll need to remove the front diff to gain access to drop the lower pan. Not too hard if you have a lift like I did.

 

Still running the stock injectors? and did you upgrade to a 190LPH pump upgrade? URD kit?

 

Good to know, thanks guys. My truck is 2wd, so hopefully that will make things a bit easier when the time comes

 

What RPM does your Garret start making boost at? And have any tips on selecting a good turbo? I have head ball bearing design is better. I am the buy once cry once kind of person, so I will likely get a good turbo, and then piece everything else together.

 

Well my turbo starts making usable boost around 2k rpm. I'm on a Garrett 2871R with 0.64A/R. You can use a 3071R if you want a little more on top (but the stock injectors and pump will only be happy up to about 6psi, keep that in mind). The bigger thing is selecting the manifold type- my manifold is a T25, so the 2871r was the best match for me. If you get a manifold with a T3 flange, you have options for larger sized turbos, but the power won't come in until later.

A Precision Turbo near equivalent would be their 5831 MFS, while being slightly larger and a T3 flange.
Someone else might be able to chime in with other brands' alternatives @Torspd @MrCrowntown @MadTaco461 @yota243

 

This is the manifold you have right?

I think usable boost at 2k rpms sounds great. I don't have any problems with upgrading the fuel injectors and pump, I was already kinda planning on doing that. If I was to go with the 2871R with the .64A/R, would I be able to change the spring out in the waste gate later on to increase boost, or does the air flow restriction of the .64 limit you as to how much boost you can run efficiently? Would like to run in the 5-8lb boost range but still have the power come on pretty quickly. Also do you know how much boost it's safe to run with stock internals on the 2tr?

 

You'd want to swap out the stock wastegate for an adjustable one like the one I have from Mamba:


On stock internals, you're looking about 400hp max (pistons are the weak point) which is probably somewhere around 16+ psi. I believe @KirkRio is running about 12psi or so. @MrCrowntown is going full retard on his built motor, but he knows more about the 2tr internals than anyone here

 

For a truck usable boost at 2k RPM is pretty high. Depends how you use it of course but for trucks things like towing and hauling and off-road you need power right as you blip the throttle from a stand still. I'd get a smaller turbo or a twin scroll

 

Usable boost to me is above 2psi... the 2871 starts making positive pressure below 2k, around 1600. Not sure how much lower you would need it to be.