TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I have never had a leak on that system (with exception to the intercooler lid) in the 10 years I've had the supercharger on. With you reporting multiple leaks, I have to think something else is happening here. Do you have a stock intercooler lid? Is your intercooler lid vent venting properly?

You hoses look brand spanking new, I don't think you should be seeing these issues.

 

Yeah that's weird. I've never had to touch any of my hoses on the truck. Once in a blue moon I'll see some crusties around the reservoir lid, but thats it.

 

I agree about the reasoning for spikes. I read that on an old DSM forum. They explained that the cracked connector could allow a spike due to the nature of how the diaghram operates. This is a Turbo focused forum so not apples to apples.

 

@loginfailed I will also recommend "the right stuff" I actually used it to patch a cracked aluminum oil pan on my old '92 Grand Am. Yes oil did leak between the gasket surface and the bottom of the pan, you could feel the liquid bubble was squishy right where the crack was. I drained the oil before I applied it. I think it was still the residual oil from the bottom of the pan coming through still that didn't let that section bond like the outside area did. It was a small crack and I basically skim coated the bottom of the oil pan after I cleaned it really good with brake clean from the outside. I figured it would be ok until the car warmed up, still held. Then when winter hit I thought it would let go when it froze or the bottom of the car drug on the snow. It held for 4 more years. Sold the car for $500 to a buddy that knew it fixed that way and was going to fix it right with a new oil pan. He didn't get around to it and gave it to his mom. So it drove for another 7 years before the trans went out and now it sits, but "the right stuff" is still on it. I did the "temporary" fix in like 2001.

 

And I couldn't get any good runs in last night to check the Ucon against my AFR guage. The wife was sick and I can't drive on snowy/icy roads and keep the truck on the road and watch the guage and the laptop at the same time in dark. But I am going to disconnect the battery and let it reset and see if that helps any. Still leaning towards the AEM/A/F sensor not reading something right cause the truck runs great and pulls really hard. Much harder than before the Ucon was ever installed.

 

+3 on the "the right stuff". My 02 Saturn comes from the factory with RTV sealing the timing cover - there is no gasket. Everyone recommends to use "the right stuff" there and it is a really good product.

 

I'm fairly certain it's the stock lid but I'll have to check. I bought the truck with 12k miles on it and the previous owner had the SC installed at the dealer around 5k miles. Sitting at 29k now. It had already been leaking a bit at the connections, I'm thinking dealer just didn't have them tight enough to begin with.

 

Sounds like something is preventing pressure to release. Maybe soak the lid in CLR and wash it out. Plugged vent maybe?

 

Update from Scott.

"It looks like bank-1 has a plugged cat.

Your data shows bank-1 taking out maximum fuel to maintain afr control.

This usually only occurs if a cat is plugged up."

Well crap, that's what I get for trying to be a good boy and keep some cats.
Has anyone confirmed if the Doug Thorley Pipe Bomb Y-pipe has resonators or are they actually catalytic converters in there?

I am on the stage one tune which should have saved my cats. Pretty disappointing if they failed after ~20k mi.

 

Can you get an aluminum boss?

 

Some fun times in Pismo. Left the sound in just to hear the blower whine. Music to my ears

 

I had a coolant hard pipe come loose from a cast aluminum housing and I didn’t want to pull the supercharger to swap it out. Went with Permatex steel weld. Chemically resistant and all. Only time will tell if it’ll hold.

But isn’t there some type of corrosion from dissimilar metals?

 

My factory cats got ate a lot quicker than I wanted them too as well. Bought my second set from @Lucario Runner a long while back when he took them off his 4runner.

After looking at your post on mods, the only cat you have are the AFE replacement headers, right? The DT Y pipe doesn't have cats, those are resonators for the most part.

 

Could be. If I see any more coolant anywhere I'll give the cap a going over. Thanks for the tip!

 

There been several instances of the AFE short tube headers with cats burning up prematurely.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/afe-twisted-steel-headers.349831/page-2#post-12836043
@glorifiedwelder maybe had the same problem?

There was another girl who had her AFE header cats go bad really quick

 

Here's the other AFE instance:
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/supercharger-burned-cats.504993/#post-15784370

 

I need to find some high flow cats or some "stamped" carb cats that are just flow throughs.

 

It has to be glued? In the gas plant world ( much of the same components as gasoline) we use 90 durometer Buna N in all sorts of valves. I looked on Amazon real quick and they have lots of 70 durometer o-rings. I think @VolcomTacoma works in the refinery world.