Tacoma - OVTUNE - VFTUNER - Update Info and Original Development

I have the 1 to 2 downshift clunk on stock. I'm not tuned yet, just sent ECU ID. Have the clunk on B04 and had it on B03. It only happens when cold so the first couple of stops in the morning. I actually anticipate it now and press the brake harder right when it happens. The downshift lunges the truck slightly forward. Sad that I have developed that habit though. I was .5 quarts low according to the dealer, but it made no difference after they filled it up. I would say its exacerbated with sub 30 degrees F.

 

I've always posted if you have any issue please flash to stock (if it's not a minor inconvenience type issue), and wait for us to investigate it.

I've asked, please, if its a one off issue or you aren't seeing others report it, please try to refrain from causing a stir on here. Because when it happens suddenly "everyone" has the problem because they go trying to find it.

Commbubba your truck has had a few unique and 1 off issues could you please allow us to look into it.

 

Emailed you which I stated above.

I was hoping to see if others had similar issues and I also made a clear disclaimer that I’ve had unique issues.

As swamped as you are I’m not expecting this to be looked into any time soon.

 

I asked the dealer to do a drain and fill on my transmission at 50000km.(ish) they actually smirked at me and said "we'll have to ask the tech". Then they fed me some bullshit line about damaging the tranny if it's done too early, and "why did you want to do it before the interval anyways? "

I said "because theres no tranny stick to check proper fill levels and relying on a computer is assinine, and some came with less than the allowable amount of fluid from factory, and this tranny is a POS" they looked at me like I was crazy, at which point I told them to do it and I would be checking to make sure it's new fluid.

The end result is they change it out, and shifts felt much tighter after and I got less of a kick in the ass on my stops. Didn't change the overall behaviour of the tranny though.

Definitely recommend everyone gets it checked.

 

Wait a second... how are customers going to know if there is (or is not) a particular wide spread issue if no one reports? Someone has to be first to report, and by defaul the first report is a one off. What you’re asking isn’t reasonable... customers on forums (especially this sub) should be expected to articulate issues experienced, particularly when safety is of concern.

 

If there was a major safety concern, or bug as a result I would make sure everyone is aware of it.
There are some people who are having minor idle issues.
Commbubbas specific truck is a very unique case, which he/she is aware of.

Regarding idle, in general, the idle on this truck (STOCK) is far from perfect and issues exist even on a stock truck. The problem is that it does not happen to all trucks. You can even find somewhere buried in this thread when we first picked up our truck that our idle (bone stock) would bounce between 500 and 1000 rpm randomly. The thing is these things will only come around under very specific circumstances. Your (someones) truck may not ever see it, but it doesn't mean the issue isn't present in code.

Just because I have not responded to tickets yet does not mean that I am not reading them, and we always recommend anyone that has any issue flash back to stock, and let us know first. The reason we ask this is because, for example Commbubba, is well aware that their truck has an odd shifting issue with the tables. They are aware of this, but still a bunch of posts were made about it and it caused more people to be excessively critical about tiny shift changes, when Commbubbas truck does not shift like others.

There are so many things that go on with idle it is very hard to conclude if it's completely from the tune or not.
There are various targets to idle depending on engine RPM and P,N,D,
Then there are target corrections if you turn the wheel,
Then there are target corrections if the cat warm up procedure has not been completed,
etc etc.

Now that's not trying downplay any legitimate issue, which will be looked into.

 

These trucks seem to increase idle every 30 seconds or so. I guessing it's for emissions purposes. Mine does this stock and it does it with the tune. The effect is greater when the engine is cold, but even hot, every 30 seconds or so I see my idle jump a little.

 

the CLUNK for MT and AT
so earlier today some one posted that tune X had the clunk while tune Y did not. i heard this several times over the development of the AT but never commented because i thought it was only AT tune related but NOW there is this 1-2 2-1 clunk! on the AT, this 1-2 2-1 is identical to the MT because these gears are higher torque there for more pronounced.i tried to address this before by explaining how the drive line works but to no avail.

sooooo what do you do when you have an argument with family and friends and cant get any were? what? thats write you POS lol you ask Google.

this is an exert from the link below
Clunk is an objectionable driveline noise and vibration phenomena that is induced by torque reversals. Clunk initiates drive train ringing and body and chassis low frequency vibration. As the driveline goes from a driven condition (i.e., negative torque) to a drive condition (i.e., positive torque), the lash in the coupled components (e.g., the transmission, transfer case, universal joints, constant velocity joints, propeller shaft, differential and axle shafts) has to be eliminated before positive torque can be transmitted. Lash is defined as the movement that occurs without resistance, which results from imperfections and tolerance in coupled components. The lash elimination process causes unrestricted and minimally damped rotation of the driveline components until resistance occurs. Following the lash removal, the driveline components go into an under-damped, spring-mass oscillation, which generates both noise and vibration through the vehicle body.


Clunk normally occurs during the torque reversal generated by application of the throttle following a deceleration fuel cut-off or a high engine vacuum fuel deceleration. In the case of a hybrid vehicle that shuts off fuel at low speeds and idle, clunk can result from the electric machine cranking the engine for restart. Clunk is most prevalent when the restart occurs while the vehicle is moving, but can occur even with stationary starts.
https://patents.google.com/patent/US7881846B2/en

as i had stated before no tune STOCK, TSB or CUSTOM is the cause of the dreaded CLUNK but can be the solution. the ONLY thing anybody can say is tune X was easier to manage the clunk then tune Y.

soo now it turns out that from the exert that both MT and AT can benefit from a DFCO and REVHANG resolution for a true throttle by cable driving experience .

DFCO REVHANG

 

I'm not saying it's normal, but I never noticed it until I first flashed to 1.03. It only happens when I come to a full stop after a relatively quick stop. The first few times, I honestly thought the cars behind me were rear-ending me (at a low speed). My wife also commented on it. After seeing others post about it on here, I figured it was something to do with it shifting back into 1st.

I'm also not saying that it was the tune itself. The tune could have merely amplified the issue that the stock tune caused (but I just never really noticed before).

Now that Mat has completely re-written the tables, it could that whatever was causing the clunk (while stopping) was written over with something that's no-longer causing a shudder to reach my butt.

 

not to mention that aircraft engines (piston) are running like 20 years behind automotive tech.

 

Sounds more like surge not clunk or both .if your costing to a stop and for what ever reason you touch the throttle REVHANG will kick in 1500rpm or so giving that surge ,you apply more brake to compinsate then REVHANG cuts out only to engage DFCO then there’s your clunk! Make sense?

 

Deffinetly tune related,103 was very aggressive tip in and multiplied the problem but once you get used to it,it was easier to manage becuase it was more responsive than stock tune.

 

I wonder if it would be possible to run different fuel ratios depending on engine temperature and load. Stock I think Mat mention Toyota runs under 11 AFR and with the tune it is 12 to 12.3. If the AFR could be increased to 13 under low load when crusing on the highway for example then the fuel economy would improve. Or is this how it already works?

 

Neither of you have any idea what you’re talking about... “Did you know that the common-rail port fuel injection systems on the latest Lycoming aircraft engines are actually far ahead of automotive fuel injection technology, and only slightly less sophisticated than what’s found in Formula One cars? Or that just about every conceivable parameter on the newest engines from Continental Motors are monitored and controlled by full-authority digital engine controls that in some respects are more advanced than the fadec systems on turbofan engines”

Read: https://www.flyingmag.com/aircraft/pistons/piston-engine-technology

 

This thread is a joke now...

 

5 years ago I had to pickup 5 brand new aircraft from piper that had lycoming motors with carburetors.

continental? Yeah, we've sent a ton of motors back to them for inspection just to be sent brand new ones at no cost. Coincidence? nah. formula one quality? nope.

just because a fadec was strapped to turbofan doesn't make it fancy or reliable.

Quit falling for marketing bullshit. Aviation lags, honestly toyota is the perfect example. They lag due to reliability of proven platforms. It's not a bad thing at all, but you cant compare cars to planes.

 

Dude, probably. I'm on 265/75r16s which are a decent upsize from stock and I can't imagine how much this thing would lug with 285s compared to where I'm at now. These trucks were re-engineered with a new motor for fuel efficiency. I honestly don't believe they have the gearing to slap 32s-33s on without sacrificing some performance.

Shit, ask Mat to work some magic I guess, but you're still gonna have issues using that 6th on the highway.

Especially if you're running a lift and armor like I am.

 

Haven't really kept up with this page in a while, due to every time I do, I spend money on a new upgrade. lol! But had 1.03 since it was first released, loved the "tip-in", not running anything crazy, just tonneau cover, 265/70/17, and stock step bars. Did not like traffic, every time id slow and tap on the gas pedal it would jerk me forward, same would happen whenever id slow down on turns. Tried 1.04, not a fan, too muted and felt like it was chugging. Went back to 1.03, and California traffic is no fun, but still got great mileage and loved the throttle response. Went to 1.05, LOVED IT. The pedal feel, the response, the freeway shifting, honestly give it a 9/10. Only reason I dont give it a 10/10 is that sometimes it jumps to 4th gear WAY too quickly, and sometimes when im at 70ish mph, and I hit a hill, I give it just little more throttle and it drops from 6th to 4th and throws me forward. But the pros completely outweigh the cons. Thanks @OVTune !

 

Hey Mat
Would you consider once this s show is overwith someday doing a tune for the 01-04 3rz engine since you are shifting to Toyota only? Just planting a seed here. Thanks. @OVTune

 

Yep. Where are the moderators? Please put some of these people in the penalty box.
Unfortunately, I’ll probably get slapped for questioning their lack of involvement.
#forcedvacation