Let's see your FJ case swap

Purple wire that goes into the 4wd ECU. Cut and solder on a new wire. It's already fused so no need to add a fuse

 

Rgr, easy day. Thanks much.

 

Hey when u guys do the twin stick mod, I know u shave that one nub on the 4wd fork down....what else do you have to do? Remove the pill lookin pin?

 

The interlock pill stays out

 

Perfect picture thank you!

 

@6 gearT444E is a wealth of useful information.

 

One more question...soo I have a manual taco and the speedo works off a worm gear off the rear output...now I swapped the fj case in but my speedo doesnt work...haven't looked in the hole but I got a sneaking suspicion the new case doesnt have a worm gear output....can I swap in one from the old case?

 

Nevermind I googled it lol....soo yes if your old case has a worm gear and your new one doesnt, you pull the rear drive flange and tail cone off, pull the spacer off and switch the parts over...piece o cake...dont even have to drop the case thank god lol

 

No need to remove the whole flange, just the speedo gear

 

Nah I had to take the whole.flange off and tail one to.swap.rhe worm gear instead if the spacer...I'll throw sum pictures up tommorow for everyone no prob

 

You must not have gotten an fj case then.

 

No it's a case from an fj but it's a later model one 2014...RST says that alot of the later ones didnt have the worm gear on the output shaft

 

It’s extremely easy to swap over the worm gear, I believe Wyatt has a tutorial for that under “Blog”.

 

A few pages back, I noticed that a bunch of members were discussing the proper 4wd engagement procedure when going from 2h to 4h at speed.

It is crucial to understand what is going on when this shift is performed. Some of you are (were) engaging the ADD first, and then the 2-4 shift lever. This is WRONG!

When travelling at speed in 2hi, the chain in the transfer case, the front output hub, the front drive shaft and the front diff and are all stationary. (Not spinning.) Because the front diff is stationary, the spider gears in the front diff ARE turning. The front left half-shaft (shaft that connects the front left wheel to the diff) and outer part of the front right half-shaft are rotating forward but the inner part of the right half-shaft is actually spinning backwards! (Again, this is because the spider gears within the diff are turning.)

If in this scenario you engage the ADD, you are asking that little sliding collar to suddenly engage all the stationary mass of the front diff, driveshaft, output hub, chain etc from zero to highway speed. Furthermore, the two halves of the front-right half-shaft are spinning in opposite directions! This is why some of you are hearing that CLUNK!

On the other hand, if you move the 2-4wd lever first, you are engaging a synchro within the transfer case whose very purpose is to begin to spin up all that mass of the chain, driveshaft, diff etc etc... Once that mass is spinning, (ie lever in 4wd position) then engage ADD and you won’t hear any clunk. This is the proper order of 4wd engagement while in motion. (This is what the 4wd ECU does in the electronic case. With the manual t-case, the driver becomes the "ECU")

When standing still, it is a non issue because nothing is spinning.

Don’t take my word for this, check out WeberAuto on YouTube. He has a very informative video called “Four Wheel Drive Operation” which will visually substantiate everything I’ve just shared.

Hopefully this will save someone from exploding their ADD assembly!

 

I’m in the process of installing the CJ case and was curious about wiring the indicator lights. I know where to splice them in from reading the write ups, the question I have is, there are two wires that come from each indicator switch in the tcase. In the write ups I’ve read it tells me to tap into one from the 4lo switch and one from the 4hi switch. What do I do with the other wire from each of these? Probably a dumb question but I’ve had a million things on my mind and for whatever reason it’s not making sense right now ‍♂️

 

The black wires with white stripe is the ground for each of them; they are all tied together at a junction box and eventually to chassis ground, no need to touch them.

 

I'm trying to decide between the oem shifter and the twin. When I got my case it came with the factory shifter, which I wasn't expecting. I just assumed it would have none since the ad didn't mention it. So I'm looking for info on the shifter location for a 5 speed truck.

@Jcapen When you did this install did you have to modify the shifter in any way or did it come up in the perfect spot naturally? Also what's the boot situation?

I know a few of you guys out there have installed the twin stick shifter with a manual trans. Could I ask to see some pics of how the twin shifter needs to be modified for that to work. I'd like to keep my cup holders and let the t-case shifters come up in the trans shifter opening. @HomerTaco you have this set up, with a crawl box too I believe. Do you have any pics of how you ran the shifters?

Thanks guys, I'm trying to amass parts for the spring. Just ordered the parts to do the FJ axle swap too!

 

There’s a bunch of pics somewhere in my build thread in how the linkage is setup.

The only reason I’m able to have the FJ case shifters come up through the stock shift boot location is because of the triple stick setup for the crawlbox. It allows for linkage for 4wd and high-low sticks to run parallel to the crawlbox shifter.

There’s no simple way to do it. I planned it out for years & gathered up all the parts. It still took several months to complete and get to what it looks like today.

I’m not sure what to tell you as far as what you’d have to do for just the twin stick to relo them on a 5speed manual. Unfortunately we have two very different setups.

 

@tacoma16 if you're not subbed already

 

The best way to do it is to just install it then bend/cut/weld the sticks to fit where you want them to come up in the tunnel. Get creative, run them where you want the stick to be. It's alot of trial and error, think it took me half a day to finally get the placement nailed down.