MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Im wondering if you just lost system pressure like if a vacuum bleader was used. Try pushing the clutch to the floor and sliding your foot off the side to let it return at full speed a few times maybe? That should suck fluid from the reservoir.

 

Did that a few times. It sticks then jumps up. It’s feels like it does when it’s very cold and slow.

 

Sounds like you still have air trapped in the system. What method are you using to bleed the line?

 

I will pick one up some time this month. Will wait until summer to do the delete, too cold to be under the truck now lol.

 

That was my thought too but if there is I’ve got no idea how or where it’s stuck if there is because after I bleed it, straight fluid comes out like it should. When I took off the delete, it ran right out with no interruptions. Done the normal open valve press clutch close valve release.

I’ve tried about everything I can think of from the normal bleeding to gravity to running fluid through the delete then finishing the last connection and bleeding

Constantly checked to make sure it was full so I didn’t suck more air in.

It’s doesn’t make any sense to me

 

That's an odd method. I've always pump the clutch pedal a few times, then hold the clutch pedal to the floor, open and close bleeder valve. It's a 2 person job but can be done with 1 if you use a block of wood to hold the pedal to the floor.

 

I actually did it that way first. Then tried the other way I described. Been a long day of fighting with my truck. Had a second person today that could pump clutch and I opened and closed valve.

At this point I’m not sure there’s a way I’ve seen suggested somewhere I haven’t tried

 

If you are now solid with no leaks, this sounds like my past experience with the vacuum bleeder.

It is shitty because the master has no bleed nipple nor return spring. So what you have to do is pump the pedal by hand until you get the least amount of pressure. Hold and bleed that. Rinse and repeat.

This is gonna take like 20 tries or so with probably a couple hundred pumps to play with. Eventually, the system pressure will build. Keep an eye on the reservoir. If you suck air, it is back to square one.

I think this has to do with the compensation port and that it is difficult to get it to start sucking. You can see this if you put some brake fluid in a Mity Vac canister and apply a vacuum. You'll see a bunch of air bubbles appear and go away when the vacuum is released. You just gotta work through it because the compensation port is tiny.

 

No leaks that I’ve seen this time. Not sure yet if I’ll be able to work on it tomorrow or not yet, we’ll see.

If that works, that means my delete was working before I took it off, I just couldn’t get the air out

Bah!

 

Sounds like since you did the bottom connector first you got that whole lines worth of air stuck in there and needs to be bled out.

May not be necessary but if youve got a sloped driveway maybe do it on that so you raise the front end and the nipple end of the MC so the air floats a little closer to the nipple. Probably not needed, but it could potentially help. Be sure to block your wheels properly.

Ive also had success getting stubborned bubbles out of the brake system of my VW by tapping the lines and MC with a wrench a couple times

 

Hope you get er sorted bud

The reward is how much better the clutch works!

 

Good morning and thank you again.
I can pick it up any time today or coming week nights for fun or if you prefer to ship it,it’s your call.
I am in no rush ,let me know.
Peace

 

Have you checked the free play between the pedal and the master cylinder push rod? Seen reports of high variation from the factory, perhaps it is affecting the way the ports in the MC are uncovered during actuation and causing you to have more issues than others?


I'd be curious to hear others experience with cold weather improvement. That is the only time I notice something strange....not to mention pedal stiffness.

 

Thanks for all the replies fellas.

Checked truck this morning and I’m not finding any signs of leak. Truck is able to move but the clutch throw is all out of whack.

Much colder here today (60 yesterday 20-30 today) and I think I’ve had about enough fun so limped it down to local repair guy and will have him check it out and get it swapped this week. He’s got heat and lift so I figure he can probably knock it out relatively quickly vs me in the cold garage.

Hopefully it’s just bad luck on my part and nothing major

 

Before the delete, my clutch would become very slow at temps -10C and colder.

Just got it done yesterday, and about +1C right now in my area (Atlantic Canada).

It's supposed to get below -10C later this week, I'll report back then.

 

Do you have any noise from the throwout bearing? Is it whining at idle?

Mine started sticking when it was days from total failure.

 

Nothing that I’ve heard. Everything has seemed fine as far as I can tell. I haven’t noticed anything out of the ordinary, just the normal clutch wonkiness this truck has had since day 1. Unless I’ve just gotten used to something that isn’t normal...

 

Just so everyone is aware, you have to tighten the nut that on the cylinder line all the way until it won’t turn anymore. Otherwise, it will leak.

 

I live in Utah and HATE how slow the clutch is on cold mornings! It drives so so crazy. I am really hoping this delete solves this.

 

Same here. That was my main reason in addition to the other weirdness it has from time to time.