2019 Tacoma Morel Build

About the install..

I recently purchased new speakers for my truck. For the fronts I went with Morel Ultra Tempo 6x9 Components. For the rears I went with 6.5 Morel Ultra Tempo Integra coaxials. The amplifier used to power these speakers is the Audio Control D-6.1200 DSP/Amp. I have it at 125 watts x6 at 4 ohms. I'm not running an active setup. I ran all new 14 gauge OFC speaker wire to the doors and tweeters. The amp has 4 gauge OFC wire running to it. The doors are sound deadened with Soundskins Pro. I did the inside of the door and outside facing the cab.

My issue..
This is my first time running a DSP. I went with this amp because it allowed me to use speaker inputs and obviously because it has a DSP built into the Amp. My problem comes with the tweeters. On the amp it shows when signal is maximized and clipping is occurring. I have the gain low enough to where it doesn't flash and it can still come alive. Though it doesn't get all that loud and when I turn up the volume even more ocasionally my tweeters will fade in and out. It really isn't all THAT loud to warrant fading in and out and as far as loudness is concerned, it leaves more to be desired. Note that for some reason if I just have Channels 1-2 in the front playing I am missing certain highs. If I sum 3-4 into it I get those highs back. Any advice for tuning this would be appreciated.

 

I have a few questions.

How did you go about setting your amplifier input levels?
Where are your crossovers?
Are channels 3 and 4 from the amp wired to your fronts in any way?
Are you POSITIVE there are no nicks in any of your speaker wiring and it's all run through grommets into the doors?
What high pass settings are you using for channels 1&2?
Are you sure low pass is not enabled for channels 1&2?

 

Setting the gains I played pink noise and turned the radio up to about 45 which I felt was an acceptable listening level. I looked at the amp to make sure the input clipping led wasn't flashing. I went into the Audio Control software and started to turn the input gain up until I saw the clipping led come on. I backed the gain off a little bit until the light went off.

The crossovers are mounted under the dash beneath the corresponding tweeters. Made it easier to access to change if needed.

All the wiring was labeled. So I am 100% certain none of it is mixed. The only interaction they have is with the DSP software and channel summing.

No cuts in the wire that I can see. It was rather simple to run the wire.

Channels 1-2 HP setting is at 20khz with a 24db rolloff. The speaker was rated for 22khz.

LPF (Mono) is not enabled on any of the channels. I intend to use 5+6 for a subwoofer once I get these tweets figured out.

I'll take a screenshot of the software and my settings in the morning and upload to provide more info .

 

This can't be correct. If this is accurate, you are sending 20KHz-22KHz to your fronts. I'm interested in seeing a good picture of your audio control settings under the top plate too. It looks like an interesting amplifier.

 

What I was saying is that the tweeters can handle up to 22khz but on the DSP I can only send up to 20khz. The actual setting is 45hz to 20khz. The 6x9 piece of the component can handle as low as 35hz but I set it 10hz above it's lowest frequency with a 24db rolloff.

 

I’m still trying to figure out how channels 3&4 relate to your front components.

 

I don't understand it either. If I just had it set for channels 1 and 2 it sounds more "mid" oriented. Which is should for the 6x9's. But until I sum 3-4 I don't get the clear highs. I'm about to go outside and I'll take pictures.

 

Why are you using crossovers? All 6 runs go back to the amp right?

 

1&2 go to the L/R crossovers (not running active per the OP) for the components up front. 3&4 should be for rear doors.

 

oh ok. I thought he said he ran all new wire to the doors and the tweeters. Plus with being a 6-ch amp, I also assumed that was the case.

 

All new wire was run in the doors and to the tweeters. It goes from the AMP/DSP, to the external crossover, to the speakers themselves. With the exception of the coaxials in the rear of course.

Anyway. I screen shotted my input/output RTA for you guys. Gain is set to zero. I am playing pink noise. I show what the RTA looks like in the front with just channels 1-2, then when summed with 3-4 and the rears with just 3-4 and then summed with 1-2.

Fronts (1-2, Unsummed)

Fronts (1-2, 3-4, Summed)

Rears (3-4, Unsummed)

Rears (3-4, 1-2, Summed)


You can see with it being summed to channels 3-4 there are more to the highs.

 

Now I want to read the manual. I have the idea that you should not be using any summing at all on channels 1-4. Isn’t that for output to a sub primarily? I think what you are doing defeating L/R discretion, which can have consequences if you don’t have a Lt/Rt signal, like clipping or cancellation.

Also, just some input on your RTA measurements. The top screen where 1/2 is summed, the response is flat with a natural roll off on both ends of the spectrum. The second screen where 3/4 is summed, you have a huge two octave spike that peaks at 6.3K and everything below 800HZ slopes down.

Generally everything should be really flat between 100 and 2K, LF is enhanced up to 10bB and from 2K up it rolls off at about 3dB per octave.

Is this a mic that came with the amp?

 

From what I understand summing is used to generate a full range signal. If you see on one of the screen shots there is a 'mono" option. That is what you would use when using a subwoofer. I plan on doing that with channels 5-6.

 

summing should be used on all the inputs from my understanding. You want the entire range put together before you start adding filters to certain output channels.

This is pretty interesting to me because I'm about to install a 4-800 of this same amp

 

I'm racking my brain trying to figure this out. Just for the hell of it I unsummed 1-2 from the front and have it playing 3-4 and it sounds better. For some reason when I put 1-2 it loves emphasizing the 200hz frequency and then it just sounds muddy "when summed".

 

Have you contacted audiocontrol? I imagine they have a support phone number you could try. I have not got to this point my build yet unfortunately but my understanding when I was looking things up in the planning phase was to sum everything coming from the head unit. Then apply the output filters to the individual channels as needed.

 

I haven't contacted AC yet. This is my first time running Morel speakers as well. When I had my 2018 Impreza Sport I was running Alpines new R-Series speakers and they were much louder and just as crisp as these Morels are. I was only pushing 100 to those speakers as well and without a DSP. These Morels are eating 125 a piece and can't get all that loud without being clipped is kind of a bummer.

 

There's also this guy who does a walkthrough

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFybThAnjzA&t=212s

 

I've watched this already. This video is actually what made me buy the 6 channel version of the amp. I liked the idea of speaker wire inputs.

 

On the D-6.1200 there are no knobs. It's all controlled by the software.