Transmission Drain and Fill vs Flush

Not sure how a 30 degree drive slant compares to my Big Harbor Freight 3 ton with the truck lifted as high as the jack will take it.

Not a bad idea to measure what came out for a refill qty., but you want to pour more than that back in for the level check strategy to work. If you were under-filled to begin with, nothing will come out. If you were right on the money before the change, you'll get the slight trickle of fluid(very small thin line, but consistent). I wouldn't bet $$$ on that, but who knows?

Measure what you drained then add 12-16 oz. to that. I'm assuming that if you were underfilled, it was not by more than 12-16 oz.

 

Thank you. Yeah from what I've read, it appears that doing a few drain and fills over a month is safer than a single flush in my scenario. Allows atfs to mix a bit.

 

Just a bit more information. About 6 months ago I had an oil cooler line rust and start leaking ATF. At that time it was dealer fixed and ATF was brought up to level. Additionally when I had a recent head gasket replacement, the engine came out of the bay, some of the ATF was replaced at that time. I suspect none of this was over, say, a few quarts. However, some of the ATF has in fact been replaced.

 

Drop the pan , inspect the magnets , drop the filter and check inside the filter for particles .
Never flush a transmission without dropping the pan first and that is regardless of the mileage . Every Tacoma has different contamination levels inside the transmission .How can you possibly know whats laying in your pan and filter ?
How can anyone else know whats laying in your pan and filter ?
I would not risk flushing all that crap laying in your pan through your valve body .
I am basing this decision on the 4000 cars and trucks I have perfomed transmission services on over the years.

If everything was " SPOTLESS " inside the pan and filter , go ahead and flush the rest of the fluid thats remaining in the torque converter , valve body and cooling system .
If the magnets are full of metal contamination , just put the pan back on and fill the pan . Do not flush
If the filter showed signs of plastic or alluminum , just put the pan back on and fill the pan . Do not flush
If the pan showed signs of brass in the bottom of the pan , just put the pan back on and fill the pan . Do not flush

 

Thank you @gearcruncher

 

Need some last tips on doing this. Planning for tomorrow.
1. Does anyone slip the bolts into the pan/gasket to help keep it aligned before re install?
2. Any good object to sit it so it's just under the tranny while you start the bolts ?....was thinking maybe an old milk crate or box.

 

I flushed mine at 125K and I have had no issues 10K miles later. I dropped the pan and cleaned the magnets/replaced the filter as well. It shifts noticeably smoother now. I would suggest doing a full flush based on my sample of 1, lol.

 

I have a neighbor who has a screw loose. Not sure if it helps here.....

 

Really people - just don’t use a powered flush for changing transmission fluid. Drain and fill (several times using the return line) to get the full 12 or 13 quart capacity changed. You can drop the pan if you want (I do it every other change).

The process is super simple and the temp check procedure is easy whether you jump it or use a obdII reader. It’s really not that complicated and about as difficult as doing a full diff/TC fluid change.

A couple beers, some tunes, and maybe a helper?

 

Appreciate that. I gotta say just did the temp check procedure on a dry run. It's quite simple, way easier than programming a keyfob.

 

In my experience, that's easier to do if the gasket is rubber-like. If the gasket is more like cork/felt, the bolts may not all keep their place if you try to pre-load all of then into the pan with the gasket in place. Won't hurt to try.[/QUOTE]

 

Just did the drain and fill. Twice. One for the Taco, one for the 4runner.
Went well. Some pointers.
1. New transmission fluid looks just like arterial blood, bright red. Though in a thin stream old and new look very similar. Dont assume its good till you do a full drain, mine got much darker as the drain progressed.
2. Old fluid can look like venous blood, or even worse, stoma ooze, dark brown.
3. If you park on a great slant 30+ degrees, you will remove 4 quarts easily, just refill before starting your truck and leveling it. No need to jack then.
4. If youve never done this before, or arent sure if its been done, add extra 8-16 oz. I was underfilled. Otherwise, the AT temp check procedure will be a waste of time.
5. If youre considering dropping the pan and want to know the bolt size, its 6mmx15mm (10mm heads), they have them at Lowes. Probably dropping the pan next time.
6. Also count the bolts. Some have 19, some have 20, they have different gaskets, and without a doubt, Autozone and Amazon will recommend the opposite one.
7. When youre pumping ATF in, use clean lines. You can also buy them at Lowes in 10 ft bundles. Dont get old gear oil in there.
8. If you have a tiny allen wrench instead of a socket allen, use a pipe cheater to open the check plug.
9. Dont buy a shitty torque wrench. I got an inch lb torque wrench from HF and noticed it wasnt clicking. Fortunately I tested on a workbench bolt first. It broke the head off at 5 in lbs. I then tried it on a lug nut for fun, and it didnt even click at 83 FT LBs. Needless to say it went back to HF, and I got a nice one. And it ACTUALLY clicks!
10. The hardest part of the whole procedure, without a doubt is lining up the threads on the fill plug when youre done. JC it could not be any more awkward.
11. Have beer on hand for completion.

 

If you drop the pan, note that torque specs are in INCH pounds. NOT foot/lbs!!

 

Exactly. I made a correction for folks over at t4r.org who posted the procedure in ft lbs. If I would have used that torque wrench from HF would have been in deep.

 

I have a 09... It shifts but it seems like my transmission working harder on the shift. Especially 2 to 3. I have 162k miles on it. I have to say, I have never done a service on it. I recalled on the manual that auto transmission is life of the vehicle but if you tow. Its better to do the transmission service on it. what do you guys think? thx

 

I did mine for the first time at 125K and everything went fine. I dropped the pan and changed the filter and cleaned the magnets, in addition to a full flush. If I were you, I would go for it. Maybe do a pan drain first and make sure the fluid is not too terrible looking.

 

hmm, I would need to bring it to a mechanic... I was thinking bringing it to a Lee Myles place up the road.

 

No matter who does it, drop the pan and clean the magnets before flushing or you will regret it. Just ask @gearcruncher

 

Yes sir .
Removing the transmission pan first for an inspection is the proper procedure when servicing a transmission .It also takes longer and makes for a more in depth service .
Never take the chance of flushing without removing the pan . The bottom of the pan is the septic tank of the transmission
Can you see whats in your pan before you remove it ? Some shops risk it all the time and they all get caught ...period
I dont care if the transmission is brand new , if you flush without removing the pan , you risk flushing crap through your valve body and jamming up all the valving .
I dont have 5 extra hours to begin messing with your valve body when you came in for a professional transmission service .
How many cars and trucks have I flushed ? Probably 4000 to 5000 over the years .
The pan comes off first


Those speedy lube shops that take the risk have kept my pockets lined for many years

 

Just reading this now .
Fluid life use to be 100k
A couple years ago Toyota dropped that number to 60K intervals .
Some reading for you when you get a chance .
Maybe we can figure out that 2-3 shift ....Catch it now before it gets worse $$$$$$

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...th-pics-for-second-gen-4-liter-trucks.289913/